12w6/w7 IB?

bikinpunk
10+ year member

G-g-g-g-g-unity!
Anyone done this?

I've been modeling both my 12w7 & 12w6 for IB use, and am considering going this route. They both have the same cutout diameter so I could do a swap test, but I'm curious if anyone here has gone this route at all?

 
I've modeled a few other IB drivers, such as the IDQ and most these drivers have the same FR when IB, within 2db of each other. I have the tuning capabilities to take care of things if that's the real life result.

It seems everyone says to look into those subs (ID, etc) because they were designed for that task, but I'm really trying to see if anyone has used the w6's with good results. A couple guys on DIY said they had good luck but with 2 13w6's.

I'm not writing off trying another sub, but I already own a w6 & w7. It's just more work for me to buy another sub unless I get some serious advice not to do so. It seems not many have tried this, so who's to say it won't work?

Thanks, though. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
First, even though we do not specifically recommend it, there is no reason why a W7 cannot be used successfully in an IB installation as long as you consider the following points very carefully.

1) The suspension system of the W7 is not designed to limit excursion without the loading of an enclosure behind it. This contrasts with an IB specific design which is designed to tighten up before the coil crashes into metal parts. The mechanical power handling is way lower than in a sealed enclosure, particularly if you listen to a lot of low-bass intensive material.

2) The W7 may sound overly "heavy" and overdamped in an IB installation when you factor the car's transfer function and will most likely require some high-resolution equalization and/or very solid midbass support. Our IB specific designs of the past were designed to deliver a higher Q response (in the 0.7 range) whereas the W7 will be in the 0.5 range. This will bloat the in-car response below 40 Hz, leading to the "heavy" sound I was referring to.

3) If you wreck the suspension or crash a coil, we do charge for reconing.

Hope that helps,

Manville Smith

JL Audio, Inc.
Entire thread dedicated to the topic, with a great discussion that I would recommend reading regardless;

http://www.elitecaraudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=129616

 
He's putting a blatant warning of the obvious; mechanical power handling will be significantly reduced (no surprise there) and there's not built-in mechanisms to keep the coil from crashing into the backplate....so if you do choose to run one IB and overpower it mechanically and damage the suspension/coil don't expect it to be covered under warranty.

IMO so that some idiot didn't run it IB and send it back for warranty work because "it's rated to handle 1kw"........

 
^ Exactly.

That's what I gathered from it, too.

I figure set gains with a very low tone, watch for extreme cone movement, mark that as your gain (or just a bit below that) and you'd probably be alright.

 
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bikinpunk

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