SSS 18734
5,000+ posts
Dollar Menu Millionaire
If all you want is loud, go with pro audio components //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
LOUD, SOUND GOOD, CHEAP.. you can pick only two..
if you want loud and cheap only then like he said.. some seleniums or eminence would be your solution
if you want loud and cheap only then like he said.. some seleniums or eminence would be your solution
partsexpress sells em.. there are some 4 and 8 ohm models.. they are rated for 100 i believe.. they get fucking loud!!
amartin_72
Banned
jdmferio13
10+ year member
feayfm
are these what you are talking about
250 rms //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eek.gif.771b7a90cf45cabdc554ff1121c21c4a.gif
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=292-2584
250 rms //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eek.gif.771b7a90cf45cabdc554ff1121c21c4a.gif
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=292-2584
You may want to have some comprehension of what you're buying before you start to randomly look at hardware.
First off, what are the goals of the system? What are the limitations? What type of sound characteristics you do you need and want from the system?
You will need to buy hardware capable of these things or you will be disappointed and fail in your vision of this system.
The downside is that you really have no idea what you're looking for and how to go about doing it. There is specific engineering in sound. There is specific engineering in speaker design and what speakers can do. There is cost in R&D as well as specific technologies of various designs. Piecing together a system is an engineering project in itself as all the pieces have to be carefully chosen and must fit and work together well. Without knowledge and planning it is very easy to fail or at the very least end up way off the mark of your original intentions.
First off, what are the goals of the system? What are the limitations? What type of sound characteristics you do you need and want from the system?
You will need to buy hardware capable of these things or you will be disappointed and fail in your vision of this system.
The downside is that you really have no idea what you're looking for and how to go about doing it. There is specific engineering in sound. There is specific engineering in speaker design and what speakers can do. There is cost in R&D as well as specific technologies of various designs. Piecing together a system is an engineering project in itself as all the pieces have to be carefully chosen and must fit and work together well. Without knowledge and planning it is very easy to fail or at the very least end up way off the mark of your original intentions.
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wow.gif.23d729408e9177caa2a0ed6a2ba6588e.gif i want my two minutes of my life back, you said nothing in all that. you got a suggestion of some speakers?
RowJoe
10+ year member
Counting hallways...
It took you two minutes to read that?
I can't suggest hardware if the original poster doesn't really know what he wants.
Loud is generic.
You only have two limits: thermal and mechanical.
Thermal is how good the speaker can be as a heat sink and what it can take before melting.
Mechanical is how much air it can physically move before breaking itself.
Along with thermal comes efficiency. A 90dB efficient speaker off 50w will be the same loud as a 93dB efficient speaker off 25w. Effectively you want a highly efficient speaker and good thermal power handling to boot. However, it's not as simple as that. Efficiency is a byproduct of the mechanical design of the speaker, and there are trade-offs to that design. For example, you could buy a 96dB sensitive 6.5" speaker. However, it could NEVER been a normal midwoofer for car use in any traditional sense. In order to even be 96dB sensitive, it needs to be designed in a specific way, a way that gives up both low frequency sensitivity and output. The 6.5" woofer would be absolutely useless below 150Hz-200Hz. It would lack the frequency response below that and would lack the excursion to even do anything lower even if you forced it (EQing).
If the original poster wants anything traditionally functional for a car setup, he would need to pretty much settle on 90dB sensitivity as the upper limit and in some cases lower. This means all other gains would have to be done via power handling. You then need to make a 6.5" woofer handle 300w rms which isn't easy to do. It's not cheap. Think Morel as an option but you're paying $150 per woofer.
As well, sensitivity and thermal power handling ONLY discusses high frequency use. Any low frequency use is mainly limited by the physical amount of air the speaker can move, i.e. cone area and excursion. To make a 6.5" woofer get loud at 80Hz, you need a LOT of mechanical throw, think subwoofer range here. There are VERY few drivers out there capable of anything more then 5-6mm. A few do offer towards 10mm one way and just a couple up in the 11mm-12mm range. However we are again talking very specific hardware and typically not cheap hardware. Some of these products also are no longer made and many of these products never existed in a premade component or coaxial setup for car use.
Frankly, there really is almost nothing cheap out there that will get loud and sound good. Most everything cheap out there will only sound good at low to medium levels and will begin to distort at higher levels and sound like junk at high levels. I couldn't tell you one budget product that is worth buying for such a design goal. I can suggest expensive options that can do the job, but that's it. To get loud, cleanly (will always be pricey) there will either be specific trade-offs or will need to specifically be design (custom 3-way for example or a 2-way incorporating a large woofer and small widerange) to do the job right.
In the end I suggest nothing because there is nothing to suggest. All I can say is the original poster doesn't yet have the understanding of the subject and most likely doesn't really know what he wants or can even get away with, independent of getting down to specific brands and models of hardware.
There's another 2 minutes of wasted time maybe.
Loud is generic.
You only have two limits: thermal and mechanical.
Thermal is how good the speaker can be as a heat sink and what it can take before melting.
Mechanical is how much air it can physically move before breaking itself.
Along with thermal comes efficiency. A 90dB efficient speaker off 50w will be the same loud as a 93dB efficient speaker off 25w. Effectively you want a highly efficient speaker and good thermal power handling to boot. However, it's not as simple as that. Efficiency is a byproduct of the mechanical design of the speaker, and there are trade-offs to that design. For example, you could buy a 96dB sensitive 6.5" speaker. However, it could NEVER been a normal midwoofer for car use in any traditional sense. In order to even be 96dB sensitive, it needs to be designed in a specific way, a way that gives up both low frequency sensitivity and output. The 6.5" woofer would be absolutely useless below 150Hz-200Hz. It would lack the frequency response below that and would lack the excursion to even do anything lower even if you forced it (EQing).
If the original poster wants anything traditionally functional for a car setup, he would need to pretty much settle on 90dB sensitivity as the upper limit and in some cases lower. This means all other gains would have to be done via power handling. You then need to make a 6.5" woofer handle 300w rms which isn't easy to do. It's not cheap. Think Morel as an option but you're paying $150 per woofer.
As well, sensitivity and thermal power handling ONLY discusses high frequency use. Any low frequency use is mainly limited by the physical amount of air the speaker can move, i.e. cone area and excursion. To make a 6.5" woofer get loud at 80Hz, you need a LOT of mechanical throw, think subwoofer range here. There are VERY few drivers out there capable of anything more then 5-6mm. A few do offer towards 10mm one way and just a couple up in the 11mm-12mm range. However we are again talking very specific hardware and typically not cheap hardware. Some of these products also are no longer made and many of these products never existed in a premade component or coaxial setup for car use.
Frankly, there really is almost nothing cheap out there that will get loud and sound good. Most everything cheap out there will only sound good at low to medium levels and will begin to distort at higher levels and sound like junk at high levels. I couldn't tell you one budget product that is worth buying for such a design goal. I can suggest expensive options that can do the job, but that's it. To get loud, cleanly (will always be pricey) there will either be specific trade-offs or will need to specifically be design (custom 3-way for example or a 2-way incorporating a large woofer and small widerange) to do the job right.
In the end I suggest nothing because there is nothing to suggest. All I can say is the original poster doesn't yet have the understanding of the subject and most likely doesn't really know what he wants or can even get away with, independent of getting down to specific brands and models of hardware.
There's another 2 minutes of wasted time maybe.
SSS 18734
5,000+ posts
Dollar Menu Millionaire
It's obvious the OP hasn't really thought about this issue deeply. If he's like most people, he doesn't really have a good ear for sound quality, nor does he really want to get technical. He wants a loud-*** front stage. If all he wants is loud, he's not going to miss the lack of response between 80 and 150hz, nor will he notice the massive peaks and dips throughout the frequency spectrum. That's seems to be the norm in Florida, and those people love their in-car PA systems //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
I guess... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif
I'm so glad I started out in the hobby with a much more grounded head on my shoulders. I was clueless of course, but I actually understood good sound a bit more then other folks. I didn't start out with piercing highs and BOOM BOOM sub setups. My first focus was midrange and natural vocals as well as broad range performance, kind of an odd place for a young kid just starting out in the hobby who really didn't know anything. At least it kept me out of all the stupid stuff and didn't waste my money.
Oh well, to each their own. I can only hope people eventually begin to learn the hobby more in depth and begin to see the err of their ways. Ignorance may be bliss, but there is a LOT of science in this hobby you really shouldn't be ignoring...unless you just don't care about music...which is a bit of an oxymoron being in this hobby.
I'm so glad I started out in the hobby with a much more grounded head on my shoulders. I was clueless of course, but I actually understood good sound a bit more then other folks. I didn't start out with piercing highs and BOOM BOOM sub setups. My first focus was midrange and natural vocals as well as broad range performance, kind of an odd place for a young kid just starting out in the hobby who really didn't know anything. At least it kept me out of all the stupid stuff and didn't waste my money.
Oh well, to each their own. I can only hope people eventually begin to learn the hobby more in depth and begin to see the err of their ways. Ignorance may be bliss, but there is a LOT of science in this hobby you really shouldn't be ignoring...unless you just don't care about music...which is a bit of an oxymoron being in this hobby.
check my threads i have sum 6.5s for u
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