1 Hour 30 Min Left Help Plz!!!

[SHiZNiLTi 10+ year member]

In less then 2 hours I get off of work and I'm going to go buy a new battery. Currently I have a yellow top optima that has lasted about one year and is now not holding a charge and isnt putting crap out for cranking amps. I've had about 10 different occasions where I have drained my optima over the year and a half or so time period that I've had it installed and it has still held a charge after each of the times I drained it.

I currently just installed (2) MTX 9500's which replaced my JLw6v2's. I have a Rockford 1501BD @ around 1700watts rms x 1 @ 2 ohms on the birth sheet. Ever since I've got these subs they **** hella juice from my electrical system. I have a 3 fared Stinger hi end cap and all 0 gauge power cable with soldered connections that are solid! And I also did the BIG 3 with all 4 gauge.

The question is should I buy antother yellow top optima or go with a real hi end standard battery with hella cranking amps??? I don't plan on ever playing my stereo with the truck turned off either.

I'm not going to add another battery since I only have 1 amp 1 battery should be fine. My avic N-2 is pusing the bostons just fine for my needs. I am going to order a new alternator in about a week from iragi alternators.

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[SBLAZER]

go 2 walmart and get an everstart maxxx, awesome batts or a yellowtop.

 

[SHiZNiLTi 10+ year member]

Well 30 min left.... Does anyone have a hi demand system thats using a standard style battery. Checkers, shucks has 1000CCA batteries there,

 

[kotec123 10+ year member]

hmm it might be that u need a better alt..check your alternator out and it seems u might need a more powerful one

 

[SHiZNiLTi 10+ year member]

So u think that the battery is fin but the alt is just not charging it?

Last night I had a 2 amp charger charging it over night it started this morning but lunch time no go.

 

[johnecon2001 5,000+ posts]

Part of the problem with your struggling electrical system is that cap. Ditch that thing man. Next upgrade the Big 3 wiring to 1/0awg (*should have been done with that in the first place*). Secondly, go get that walmart everstart if you really think you need a new batt. If after all that you still have problems.. start shopping for a HO alt.

Ever since I've got these subs they **** hella juice from my electrical system.

FYI subs don't **** the juice.. the amp does. You may have gotten a different coil configuration on the subs, so now the impedence is lower causing the amp to give more power into the load.

 

[Hook Me Up 10+ year member]

Get a new alt and I agree with john- Switch the 0 gauge big 3, no sense in going 4 gauge why is the question i ask, just spend 20 bucks more for the 0 gauge

 

[lc498 10+ year member]

http://www.kinetikaudio.com/products.asp

i have a HC1800 and i love it. i have a 75x4@4 amp and a 600x1@4 amp (bridged) both class AB and not very efficent, and i get zero dimmage or starting problems after about 4~6 months. only a ~100 amp alt too boot (and only half the big 3 done too lol)

 

[skmfkr 5,000+ posts]

i got the everstart maxx from wal mart also, that is a good batt plus i had like $40 in wal mart GC's so that was why i went with that batt instead of a yellow top

 

[chinny 5,000+ posts]

big 3 in 0g

ditch the cap

new alt

 

[bigbangtheory 5,000+ posts]

Do caps really hurt the system? I mean why cant he just got a better altenator and call it a day?

 

[SHiZNiLTi 10+ year member]

Part of the problem with your struggling electrical system is that cap. Ditch that thing man. Next upgrade the Big 3 wiring to 1/0awg (*should have been done with that in the first place*). Secondly, go get that walmart everstart if you really think you need a new batt. If after all that you still have problems.. start shopping for a HO alt.


FYI subs don't **** the juice.. the amp does. You may have gotten a different coil configuration on the subs, so now the impedence is lower causing the amp to give more power into the load.

Thanks for the input.

I went ahead and bought a new yellow top last night, I had the guy at battereis plus test my old optima and it was hella weak, at first he just ran the test on my old battery and said it was no good, then I told him well go get a new optima yellow top from the back run the same test on that I want to see what mine should be putting out since I'm not familar with your machine that you use to test the battery, he did and wow mine was like 20% of what the new optima tested out to.

WOW, So you think my brand new Stinger 3 Fared cap is causing some problems. This thing kicks ***, I did some tests with the cap unistalled and installed last night. With the cap installed my voltage was consistantly .9 volts higher on a 45hz 1 minute note at 75% volume. I was reading the volts with voltmeter at battery terminal and at the amp. Without the cap I could actually see the voltage drop more and feel less bass at the same volume settings. This isnt a no name brand cap this thing used to retail for $500! So how can keeping this cap off help out?

http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/vpid/1331969/vpcsid/0/SFV/30046

In regards to "Shoulda gone with 1/0 gauge" the battery has top posts and side posts I left on all the factory cables as they were, I just added in addition to them 4ga. from engine block to frame, 4ga. from Alt to Battery, 4ga from Battery to Frame. I allready had real nice 4ga cable so thats why I used that. So now everything has double power leads and ground leads. All these cables are like 2 feet long anyways I doubt there is that much of resistance difference between 4ga. an 1/0 ga. over that kinda distance, plus I still have all the factory grounds and power cables from alt, engine block ets. connected. One thing that is very important that many people forget about is the way you make you connections, I spent a very long time making each and every connection excellent, I soldered each and everyone for one hellova good connection.

"FYI subs don't **** the juice.. the amp does. You may have gotten a different coil configuration on the subs, so now the impedence is lower causing the amp to give more power into the load" - johnecon2001

My wiring configuration and ohm load is the exact same as my setup with my old subs which is at 2 ohm load for the amp. You have never heard of the term "power hungry subs". I know that the amplifier is whats drawing the juice its common sense, LOL I've never seen a fused subwoofer before haha. I'm just saying if I stick my old subs which are wired in at 2 ohms, I will not get any voltages drops in my system at all with these subs pushed to there peak performance, but when I install the power hungry 9500's at 2 ohm load for the amp, I see a voltage drop.

Can anyone technically explain why a sub that is a 1000 watts will cause the amp to work harder then a sub that is 400 watts?

Is a Iragi 260 amp alternator a little too much if I plan on keeping my existing sutup with just one battery and the 3 fared cap?

Also can others please expliain the ANTI-CAP opinions for me please, I'm still confused on how this cap is causing problems for my sytem if I can actually hear and see improvements when its installed?

Thanks guys

 

[melnlovr911 10+ year member]

LOL I've never seen a fused subwoofer before haha.

new Boston Accoustic G5's! Nice subs. Sorry for getting off track...