1,200w on stock electrical?

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Sup homies, I have a Ford Ranger 2010 XLT. I currently have a Hifonics ZRX 1000.1D, selling it tomorrow to a bro. I'm pretty sure my Ranger has a 90amp alt.. I've done big 3 and have a Optima Yellowtop battery under the hood.

I only have the Sundown SA-10 in a T-Line. Metered my ZRX 1000.1D and it was sending out like ~450w and clipping past that. :/

Questions:

1.) biggest amp I could run without new alt and just big 3. (biggest amp for my SA-10 I can run safely)

2.) I was looking at the Hifonics BRX1116.1D, but they're power hungry to the max. I barely got 13.18v stable with my ZRX 1000.1D @ 1 ohm.

3.) Best amp for ~$200 new/used doesn't matter. PM me if you're selling and I'll take a peak.

Thanks for the input ya'll and God bless. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
That's actually not too high of a price. After looking all over the specs, I'm assuming I can make rated as long as I'm at 13v?
It's going to be alot easier on your electrical system and it's going to do closer to 600 rms.. I'm not sure what coils have etc so double check before you fly!

 
What are you looking to gain with this? More power when you "meter" the system? Do you plan to take the vehicle to SPL competitions? Keep in mind even if you doubled the power it's only a theoretical gain of 3 dB, and losses will knock that down.

How does the system sound?

 
I'd do the CAB and leave a lil headroom
Got the CAB. It'll be here this evening.

What are you looking to gain with this? More power when you "meter" the system? Do you plan to take the vehicle to SPL competitions? Keep in mind even if you doubled the power it's only a theoretical gain of 3 dB, and losses will knock that down.
How does the system sound?
Sub clipping from my current amp because it doesn't do rated or near RMS for the SA-10 and the cone gets warm. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 
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Is 1200 watts at .5 ohm more taxing on the electrical than let say 1200 watts at 2ohm or 4ohm. Does the ohm load make a difference on what it takes to support a certain amount out of watts? Little bit of a thread jack but had me curios reading through

 
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The only way a more powerful amplifier is going to help is if your gain is set too high to try to compensate. It might not sound louder by going to more headroom as there will be less distortion. I will add more to this later.

 
The only way a more powerful amplifier is going to help is if your gain is set too high to try to compensate. It might not sound louder by going to more headroom as there will be less distortion. I will add more to this later.
This makes no sense. I'm creating the same if not more power on less voltage with a better amplifier than I am clipping with less voltage on a overrated amplifier.

 
I'm at my PC now. Unless I'm mistaken, the reason you're upgrading your amplifier is because your amplifier was essentially a hazard to your subwoofer and you want more power. We've probably all been in this situation so I get it.

Remember there are two things that we can't get around.

1) It takes double the power to ideally attain an extra 3 dB SPL if nothing else changes in the system. I'm not sure if SPL on a meter is something you care about or if you just want it to sound loud.

2) If you want sustained high power it's going to need a strong power supply. To get more watts from a clamp test the vehicle needs to support roughly 100 amps per 1,000 watts. On normal music the current draw shouldn't be so high, but if you like super loud and sustained bass music you may need electrical upgrades next.

 
I'm at my PC now. Unless I'm mistaken, the reason you're upgrading your amplifier is because your amplifier was essentially a hazard to your subwoofer and you want more power. We've probably all been in this situation so I get it.
Remember there are two things that we can't get around.

1) It takes double the power to ideally attain an extra 3 dB SPL if nothing else changes in the system. I'm not sure if SPL on a meter is something you care about or if you just want it to sound loud.

2) If you want sustained high power it's going to need a strong power supply. To get more watts from a clamp test the vehicle needs to support roughly 100 amps per 1,000 watts. On normal music the current draw shouldn't be so high, but if you like super loud and sustained bass music you may need electrical upgrades next.
Yes and no, no as in I don't want it louder. I want it to stop clipping. I can get a better branded amplifier that pushes MORE wattage, at a lower voltage. Their are amps that push more than than the RMS for my sub at 12v without clipping. It doesn't have to be louder at all. It's okay, I already bought the CAB 1600.1 which should push the subs RMS at less than 14.4v, which is all I wanted. Thanks.

 
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