(1) 18" Fi BTL vs (2) 15" Fi Q's *PICS*

Yes, I'm going to wait before I talk to scott, But Im still going to make a new box since I have about 1.5 sheets of mdf not being used. I think mustang is right and it's still breaking in because I can notice a big difference from the day I got it which was a month ago compared to today hopefully it will get better as time comes. Also since my amp supposivly doesnt do anywhere near 2000rms even though the birthsheet says it's rated at 2257 rms @ 1 ohm @ 13v might be a reason why it's taking soo long to break in.

 
(4) 6" ports? Hell my 18" RE/FI I only use 2x6" ports and its tuned to around 33hz.
How many cubes was your 18" in that had 56sq.in. for port area? How well did the low ows hit at 30-35hz? Some say the rule for port size is 12-16 for a BTL, I'm gonna be at 8 cubes so thats 113 sq.in. of port if I did 14 times the box size. (4) 6"aeros would be a good setup. If I did (3) 6" aeros' that would be 85sq.in. of port, which is 10 x the box size.

Whatcha think is better, (3) 6" aeros @ 85sq.in. or (4) 6" aeros @ 113sq.in. of port if the box is gonna be just under 8 cubes?

 
I'm really not sure you're going to be able to bring those lower freqs without compromising a lot of the upper notes, and to my ear, it's really only a select few lower frequencies. It's not like everything from 15-30 completely blows. Like ndm said, the more the sub is broken in, the more those notes will start to play. However, if you need some aeroports, let me know...I got a few

And that shit straight destroyed me last night. I dunno how you daily drive with that thing. Sick whip, too. Thanks for the listen.

 
lol, thanks 32tl I bet that restaurant owner was hella pissed //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif thnx for offer on the ports. Did it still sound pretty loud when I was behind you when leaving? Ya, it's a pretty crazy DD, get alot of looks from people like "wtf, thats way too loud." It just nned more breaking in and a slightly bigger box.

 
When amps can see impedence rise as high as 15-25 ohms during musical play...and the sub is getting as little as 2-300 watts, that birth sheet is about as valuable as a single Yen.

 
When amps can see impedence rise as high as 15-25 ohms during musical play...and the sub is getting as little as 2-300 watts, that birth sheet is about as valuable as a single Yen.
well said...//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/veryhappy.gif.fec4fed33b4a1279cf10bdd45a039dae.gif

 
When amps can see impedence rise as high as 15-25 ohms during musical play...and the sub is getting as little as 2-300 watts, that birth sheet is about as valuable as a single Yen.
i know...but impedance rise is the same concept for every amp. its not like a 2700 watt kicker and a different 2400 watt amp are gonna be that much different. if there is an amp thats 2.7k @1 ohm and a amp thats birthsheet says 2.4k at 1 ohm...they will both be subject to impedance rise. so my point is..a birthsheet lets you know that at 1 ohm your amp puts out what it says it putting out. a birthsheet is very valuable imo. i want to know that when i reach 1 ohm my amp is putting out xxx watts versus an amp that says its putting out xxx watts but in all actuality (after clamping it) the amp doesnt do what the manufacturer says it does. i know this thread is old but i had to. like i said. if his birthsheet is true then when his amplifier sees a 1 ohms load, then hes getting the power he originally paid for (providing his electrical system is up to par). so in conclusion...refer to my original post.

 
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