First off i would like to thank anyone who is willing to help, thinking and researching for weeks has left me drained, and almost want to give up entirely. However, thanks to this site, and all the useful info i have found, i have narrowed down what i want to do. With a few exceptions of course.
My current setup is:
Headunit: Pioneer DEH-P8400BH
Im fairly happy with the headunit. I wish i knew more about time delay for my current setup, but that should be solved soon. Also you are unable to turn off the LPF on sub channel, which isnt a huge deal, but would have liked to use the filter on my amp instead.
Front Stage:
Cadence FXC-5ki 5.25" 2-way comps (currently mounted in factory speaker and tweeter locations, with doors deadened. Overall sound is ok, far better than stock, but ive had and heard much better. To be fair, ive previously had kickpods, and always 6.5" speakers.)
Product Information
Power Output * 60 Watts RMS System Power * 240 Watts MAX Power * Black Injection Graphite Molded Woofer Cone * 1" Silk Soft Dome Tweeters with Flush, Angle & Surface Mounts * 12dB 2-Way Crossover Network System with Mylar Capacitors, Air-core Coils & Tweeter Protection * 20oz Magnet Weight / 40oz Motor Structure Frequency Response: 75Hz -20KHz * Sound Pressure Level: 91dB @ 1w/1m * Mounting Depth: 2.15"
JL Audio 300/4v2 running off Front stage only putting out 75w rms, hpf set at 80hz, gain about 1/2 way per DMM method.
Subwoofers:
2 10" JBL CS1014's sitting in sealed .65 box (these subs have fairly good sound quality for a cheap woofer. Also get decently loud for only running on 125w rms, but not ground pounders by any means, and dont hit the lows very well. Ive owned infinity, cadence, fusion, kicker, JL, and pioneer subs, all of which were better subs, but require more power than i wish to dish out.)
125w rms, 500w peak, sensitivity 90db, response 45-200hz. Fs 30hz
JL Audio 250/1v2 settings are all turned off since i can not bypass the LPF filter on my HU(i could use rear channel, but have a bass knob up front already hooked up to the sub channel.) gain is set about 3/4 per DMM method.
Overall i am pretty happy with the system i have now, but not satisfied(does anyone ever reach that stage?) My friends brag about it more than me, and complain it gets too loud, but that isnt my overall goal. I want to have a good(decent) SQ setup that can still get loud, as Civics are not the quietest cars going 70mph on the freeway(as i am constantly doing.)
Also, i am a college student, which means every penny counts, i fully understand in most cases you get what you pay for, and if you cant afford the best wait, but im impatient and want the best sound i can get for what i currently have.
Here is what i started with:
1.Building kickpods vs q-forms = kickpods won, as i have built them before with good results, more time, but less money.
2. 2-10's vs 1 12(13) = this one was tougher, but i already have the JBL's and have always owned 10's. This one is still open to comment if anyone cares to share their opinion. But for now im thinking the 2 10's(already have em).
3. 2 8's in cabin(custom enclosure's in front of rear bench) vs trunk = trunk. too much work, lack of bass, and more open to damage if i went with 8's.
So heres what i would like some further assistance with:
1. Current door set-up. Should i leave the speakers in but turn them down so they dont interfere with the kickpods? I was thinking of just taking the speaker wire from the doors and using it for the kicks(which are going to be 6.5). That way i dont have to rewire, and i dont see the point of having 2 sets of components, unless their the exact same...even then, i see interference or cancellation problems.
Or possibly throw some midbass speakers in the doors? Again, im not convinced on the idea, but realize it could be an option...
As a side note, the speakers seem like they could get louder, but i dont want to mess the gains or turn up my volume past 3/4 as i understand that is when distortion comes into play.(set-up gains using a DMM) So...if i were to run them at 150w rms, which is over double power, how quickly would they blow? Probly not the smartest idea, but i will definatly try it once i have the new speakers ready.
Suggestions for 6.5" comps that work good in kickpods under $200?
2. Sub box. Since i will be making kickpods, i am considering doing fiberglass enclosures behind the rear wheel wells or a quick detach sub box so i can have a clear trunk when i need to. Im leaning more towards the fiberglass enclosures, one 10 on each side, but price and time could really add up there. But when i needed the full trunk(for my bike), and were to take out a sub box, the rest of my system would seriously lack bass.
...while writing this, i just thought of a bike rack, as that is about the only time i need the full trunk, but still would appreciate some input.
3. Amp location. Right now, i have the amps both mounted to the sub box itself(havnt had any issues, but dont know if the vibrations effect amp performance?), they are fairly out of the way. But if i were to do the fiberglass sub enclosure, i would need to remount them elsewhere. In past i have mounted amps to the back of the rear seats, is there anything wrong with this idea?
4. Power. My system can draw 550w rms, and right now i have both 4g and 8g power wires. I have 4g from the battery to about halfway to the passenger seat(approximatly 6'), which at that point is split into 2 8g wires(one running to each amp, each about 6') ground wires are both 8g as well. My car battery died and since i have jumped it, i noticed the headlights dimming more. I have yet to check the battery itself, but am aware that is probably the first thing i should do. However, my more important question is should i run 4g all the way back and then split into 8g, or does it really matter? Also, even if the battery isnt fully charged, should i start with the BIG 3, or look into a Yellowtop battery(i am not at all interested in a capacitor)?
Thank you again for your help, sorry if i was rambling on too much. Few things to keep in mind:
Im cheap, i look at the best value for your dollar, rather than the best.
Projects are not until warm weather, so plenty of time to think/discuss
I dont plan on trading amps, but am open to speaker/subs that match amp specs.
My current setup is:
Headunit: Pioneer DEH-P8400BH
Im fairly happy with the headunit. I wish i knew more about time delay for my current setup, but that should be solved soon. Also you are unable to turn off the LPF on sub channel, which isnt a huge deal, but would have liked to use the filter on my amp instead.
Front Stage:
Cadence FXC-5ki 5.25" 2-way comps (currently mounted in factory speaker and tweeter locations, with doors deadened. Overall sound is ok, far better than stock, but ive had and heard much better. To be fair, ive previously had kickpods, and always 6.5" speakers.)
Product Information
Power Output * 60 Watts RMS System Power * 240 Watts MAX Power * Black Injection Graphite Molded Woofer Cone * 1" Silk Soft Dome Tweeters with Flush, Angle & Surface Mounts * 12dB 2-Way Crossover Network System with Mylar Capacitors, Air-core Coils & Tweeter Protection * 20oz Magnet Weight / 40oz Motor Structure Frequency Response: 75Hz -20KHz * Sound Pressure Level: 91dB @ 1w/1m * Mounting Depth: 2.15"
JL Audio 300/4v2 running off Front stage only putting out 75w rms, hpf set at 80hz, gain about 1/2 way per DMM method.
Subwoofers:
2 10" JBL CS1014's sitting in sealed .65 box (these subs have fairly good sound quality for a cheap woofer. Also get decently loud for only running on 125w rms, but not ground pounders by any means, and dont hit the lows very well. Ive owned infinity, cadence, fusion, kicker, JL, and pioneer subs, all of which were better subs, but require more power than i wish to dish out.)
125w rms, 500w peak, sensitivity 90db, response 45-200hz. Fs 30hz
JL Audio 250/1v2 settings are all turned off since i can not bypass the LPF filter on my HU(i could use rear channel, but have a bass knob up front already hooked up to the sub channel.) gain is set about 3/4 per DMM method.
Overall i am pretty happy with the system i have now, but not satisfied(does anyone ever reach that stage?) My friends brag about it more than me, and complain it gets too loud, but that isnt my overall goal. I want to have a good(decent) SQ setup that can still get loud, as Civics are not the quietest cars going 70mph on the freeway(as i am constantly doing.)
Also, i am a college student, which means every penny counts, i fully understand in most cases you get what you pay for, and if you cant afford the best wait, but im impatient and want the best sound i can get for what i currently have.
Here is what i started with:
1.Building kickpods vs q-forms = kickpods won, as i have built them before with good results, more time, but less money.
2. 2-10's vs 1 12(13) = this one was tougher, but i already have the JBL's and have always owned 10's. This one is still open to comment if anyone cares to share their opinion. But for now im thinking the 2 10's(already have em).
3. 2 8's in cabin(custom enclosure's in front of rear bench) vs trunk = trunk. too much work, lack of bass, and more open to damage if i went with 8's.
So heres what i would like some further assistance with:
1. Current door set-up. Should i leave the speakers in but turn them down so they dont interfere with the kickpods? I was thinking of just taking the speaker wire from the doors and using it for the kicks(which are going to be 6.5). That way i dont have to rewire, and i dont see the point of having 2 sets of components, unless their the exact same...even then, i see interference or cancellation problems.
Or possibly throw some midbass speakers in the doors? Again, im not convinced on the idea, but realize it could be an option...
As a side note, the speakers seem like they could get louder, but i dont want to mess the gains or turn up my volume past 3/4 as i understand that is when distortion comes into play.(set-up gains using a DMM) So...if i were to run them at 150w rms, which is over double power, how quickly would they blow? Probly not the smartest idea, but i will definatly try it once i have the new speakers ready.
Suggestions for 6.5" comps that work good in kickpods under $200?
2. Sub box. Since i will be making kickpods, i am considering doing fiberglass enclosures behind the rear wheel wells or a quick detach sub box so i can have a clear trunk when i need to. Im leaning more towards the fiberglass enclosures, one 10 on each side, but price and time could really add up there. But when i needed the full trunk(for my bike), and were to take out a sub box, the rest of my system would seriously lack bass.
...while writing this, i just thought of a bike rack, as that is about the only time i need the full trunk, but still would appreciate some input.
3. Amp location. Right now, i have the amps both mounted to the sub box itself(havnt had any issues, but dont know if the vibrations effect amp performance?), they are fairly out of the way. But if i were to do the fiberglass sub enclosure, i would need to remount them elsewhere. In past i have mounted amps to the back of the rear seats, is there anything wrong with this idea?
4. Power. My system can draw 550w rms, and right now i have both 4g and 8g power wires. I have 4g from the battery to about halfway to the passenger seat(approximatly 6'), which at that point is split into 2 8g wires(one running to each amp, each about 6') ground wires are both 8g as well. My car battery died and since i have jumped it, i noticed the headlights dimming more. I have yet to check the battery itself, but am aware that is probably the first thing i should do. However, my more important question is should i run 4g all the way back and then split into 8g, or does it really matter? Also, even if the battery isnt fully charged, should i start with the BIG 3, or look into a Yellowtop battery(i am not at all interested in a capacitor)?
Thank you again for your help, sorry if i was rambling on too much. Few things to keep in mind:
Im cheap, i look at the best value for your dollar, rather than the best.
Projects are not until warm weather, so plenty of time to think/discuss
I dont plan on trading amps, but am open to speaker/subs that match amp specs.
Last edited by a moderator:
