Budget build advice - Haven't built a system in 20 years

Have you looked into how much 12v power that you have available? I know that some electric cars only have about 200w of power available at 12v due to limitations of the 12v power supply that is running off the high voltage ev battery.

Dup post, sorry,

I would say that your selections are nice equipment, by and large, but unless you are bound to purchase from Crutchfield, better options exist.

Given the vehicle, I'd look for very efficient models.

Example:

Start with a simple DSP (that will take high-level OEM speaker leads) so you can make up the difference in cost by negating the need for speakers with crossovers.

This is out of stock everywhere because it's an excellent performer and the cost is very reasonable.

$155.00


Front 6.5" component Speakers: 2 or 4 ohm depending on the amp (see below)

$150.00 (2 ohm version):


Tweeters: $62.00 to $100.00

Good $62.00 pair:


Better $100 pair


- OR -

Best $100.00


Also best if you can actually find them in stock anywhere: $86.00


Rear fill. This is not necessary but nice if you like to have the ability to play for a full or partially occupied car. Since you will have the ability to EQ them with the DSP, I'd focus on full range and efficiency; a 2-way is not needed. Set the DSP response for 80 to 3k as the goal.

This will allow you to enjoy the rear fill without drawing the front stage too far back $43.00 shipped


To keep the budget aligned without compromising the sound quality or output, go with a prefab-loaded sub from CT Sounds.

Single 12 (W/first time buyer 11% discount) $196.00


And preferably if you have the room - dual 10" $285.00


And absolutely if you have the room and the budget: $339.00


Amplification.

This will largely depend on which subwoofer you select (as in duals or single). That said, this unit is by far the best value out there currently, and you can dictate the output using the gain controls on both the amp and the DSP. It's such a good deal, not going to bother with other options.

Since all the subs I've listed can be rewired to 4 ohms, this amp will output close to 2000 watts at 4 ohms, runs cooler at 4 ohms, has its highest efficiency and damping factor (woofer control) ability at 4 ohms, just a great way to get the most out of the setup and keep things running cool and effecient. Soundigital EVO 6 3000.1 (2-ohm version)

$170.00


Amplifier for the front 2-way components and the rear fill: 1 amp for all; using 2-ohm fronts gives you 200x2 for the front midbass and 100 x 4 at 4 ohms for the rear fill and the tweeters. $260.00



I don't see a lot of extras that will also be needed, such as deadening/installation materials and wiring; labor is a whole notha thing.

Sound treatments are a must and essential (even in a quiet EV):


Can't beat this. $40.00 for 36 sq ft - and they offer a first-time discount of 10% so get two!

1 for $36.00, two for $72.00


You can figure at least another $150.00 to $300.00 for wiring, cables, etc.

entropism said:

OK, so I'm a bit out of the loop, and spent the past few weeks reading up and refreshing my completely out of date knowledge. I'm trying to build a budget SQ build, and I'm trying to figure out just how important DSP is these days. 20 years ago, DSP was basically only used in HIGH end systems, and we got along without it just fine.

So, basically, if everyone says DSP is a must have, I'll be going with Kicker KEY amps (200.4, 500.1) that have DSP and Auto-EQ built in, or I'll be going with an Audiocontrol A1100.5, which is higher powered, more flexibility in terms of what ohms I can run at, but no DSP or EQ. The amp choice also determines the sub choice, as listed below.

Anyways, I built out a build list on Crutchfield using brands my local installer carries. Let me know if I should change anything or if my picks are completely wrong here:

Car - 2024 Nissan Ariya
Head unit - Stock
Front components - Infinity Reference REF607CF - I was looking for a warmer tone for the speakers, and I've heard Infinity fits the mold here.
Rear Coax (Are they even needed?) - Infinity Primus 603F
Subwoofer - Either a Rockford Fosgate P3D2-12 OR an AudioControl SPK-12S2, depending on the amp(s).
Amps - Kicker 47KEY200.4 and Kicker 47KEY500.1, or an AudioControl A1100.5

Total HARDWARE budget is, so far, under $1200, though I know install labor will tack on a significant sum to the final tally.

Anyways, I'm so open to suggestions, it's not even funny. I think I picked some decent brands, but I know some of the older high end stuff (Soundstream, Precision Power, etc) seem like they're low end garbage now.

Click to expand...

To answer your question no, you don't need a DSP. Will you want one? Yes, you will want one if you're keeping the factory radio. An SQ build is a personal taste. It all depends on what you believe sounds good. Some people will be happy with a deck install, where others will need a $5000 system to be happy.

Factory radios come tuned to have a specific sound coming from the factory speakers. Change the speakers, and you change the sound. Sometimes it's good and sometimes it's bad. A DSP will allow you to tune each speaker to what you like. The equipment you chose, I believe you will be satisfied with them.