5000K Amp or higher

There's a reputable seller on DIYMA that is selling a Smart 5K for $350


THis thing is a beast, used the 3K and it is a great amp.


- OR -

Two different boards altogether, half-bridge Korean versus Full-bridge Brazilian. Not a great comparative really, two different beast. For the DD money, I'd look into one of these, Full on half bridge Korean amp too, 8K

If you're considering a high powered full-bridge like Taramps, you must have good stable voltage and (strongly recommended) a lithium bank too. You're going to need electrical support for either.

The SALT line is very good too,

As for Full bridge amps -

Run your yellow top and one of these in the rear, won;t need the alternator upgrade most likely.
I would consider a Glow VOltage Series 3 for shear instantaneous burst.


Or, a series 2 if you plan on just being loud and also having a bit of reserve.


I'm running the Series 1 for a 4500 watt system and it has a lot of capability and a lot of spare anp hours for off the alternator use should I want.

I would advise 2/0 gauge +/- front to back, parallel grounded.

Best bang for the buck 2/0 OFC wire

Black is $4.30 ft (min 25ft)


Red is $4.62 a ft 9min 25 ft)


Article on parallel grounding

https://www.bestcaraudio.com/car-audio-myths-you-cant-ground-a-car-audio-amplifier-to-the-battery/

Evyn1 said:

The Full Bridge Amp forsure!

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I like (and use) full bridge for subs. They are not all created equal though. Still, I ran the Hooligan 3k 9DS18 all Korean half bridge) for a while in the previous hatchback, dynamic and powerful, loads of headroom , not quite as efficient but very dynamic. I have a Soundigital 2400.1 that I'm going to use on the Mazda build starting in May. I think Soundigital make one of the better fulbridge amps on the market but they can be a bit on the expensive side for the feature set one gets.

I don't need a lot of features on any of the amps I use, full DSP so the rest just comes along for the ride. My front stage amplifiers have zero x-overs or anything else besides gains, straight signal from the DSP to the amps and out to the speakers.

Evyn1 said:

That’s great Docquzme!

You think I can get away with running it straight off the yellow top as it is now?

And the big 3 ?

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Maybe, depending on what you endup with or think you will actually use. With the GLow Voltage setup and parallel runs parallel grounding, should be okay to around 8000 watts.

You may only need 1/0 from front to back depending on the length of the runs as well. 2/0 is what I got not thinking alot about it, would have been fine with 1/0 now that I think about it.