Recent content by What was that?

I bought a pack of military ping activated GPS stickers. I put them on my high value components. So after my alarm is activated a automated module activates the GPS stickers on my gear. If you do steal it I can track all my equipment anytime I feel like. Car battery or not. I have no problem...

Some amps can accept a digital signal like toslink. So no rca's. Conversion is done in the amp.

Still have?

The 8051 and 8061 have a 3.5mm auxiliary input in the rear.

You can cut the rca's on that amp and use it as a high level input amp. They designed it for factory integration and most factory hu's don't have rca output. That being said, a 4v signal is plenty to push that amplifier. Just use the rca's and you will be happy. Oh yeah - Properly pre-amped...

I third Sound Deadener Showdown. Knowledge and customer service is top notch. He may not get to the initial email that day but once he does start your order you'll be happy all the way through. There is other stuff that gets the job done for cheaper but, never quite as good or with the same ease...

8454 is the better all in one unit. The 8051 was designed to be used with the 39011 or 2301 DSP's. If you don't have either dsp then the 8454 is definitely the better choice. I own all three. iPod playback depends on how. It could be crap if it's just poorly compressed mp3. If it's wav files...

Lots of people put their sub amps on switches, myself included. Just a toggle switch on the remote wire.

It seems to me you are being a bit to safe. If you have an amp of lesser ability you may have to push it to it's limit or accept it's lesser output. You seem to have an idea of what crap sounds like and common sense so turn the gain up, regardless of dial position, until it starts to sound...

Most people I know use coaxial as rear fill and keep the rear level down. With a mustang you can definitely go with out. A small sub or high quality mid bass up front is a must imo. I would keep the amp to run your front stage and spend a couple hundred on a sub and wiring for sub amp

Free shipping, can choose color, and volume request accepted. Seems like a winner. Price also seems fair. Maybe somebody on here from Seattle has exp with or knows about the place.

It is a bad idea. Best - what Big Scott said. You could probably permanently install a toggle switch up front in a discrete location in less than an hour. I just re-ran the one in my Silverado in 15 minutes. It will take some small gauge wire but that will be in the same isle as the toggle...

Good point. Didn't think of telling you that because I install toggle switches to the sub amps in every install I ever do. So it's second nature to me having a switch. I like being able to shut it off at certain times. At least someone is paying attention.

In my previous post I mentioned secondary grounding by factory. I didn't word it correctly. I meant try grounding hu chassis as well. Some factory mounting points are designed as hu chassis grounds. The aftermarket hu probably don't have same noise issues but you never know. Does it have noise...

I did give you a temporary solution. Jump the remote wire off the power but put a fuse inline. You can purchase little inline fuse holders at any auto parts store. Just make sure you get a 1 amp fuse. .5 amp is better. Cooper Bussmann/ATM in-line fuse holder BP-HHM-RP at AutoZone.com