Recent content by Troponin

So I dropped the idea of the Focal 10s because I kept coming back to how expensive they were and I have no way of listening to them in a vehicle before I buy them. Instead, I am going to grab two 10” JL W6 instead and use the money I am saving for another upgrade. I have the factory Bose in my...

You can usually smell that too. It’s an unusual sweet smell.

Sure, JL is a bit overpriced, but the W7s are pretty heavy hitters. Its capable of good SPL without sounding like complete crap, but, if set up correctly, it can actually be used as a SQ sub. I think best SQ system in 2017 at IASCA went to a dude using a W7. That being said, I think the W6v3 is...

Yeah, not sure that its related to the material, however, usually in a case like this, it’s an AC or ventilation issue. Check your cabin filter and replace it if necessary. Check and make sure the AC is blowing cold enough. A system low on coolant can make it feel like the car is more humid too.

Sounds like something that happened to me while dating my first girlfriend. It’s been so many years, I have completely forgotten so many terms, processes etc. I really need to re-educate myself on it all. For instance, I completely forgot to consider THD at all.

I’m not trying to do a budget build though. I am looking for the best sound quality I can get (Unless the speaker is over $1,000). I have plenty of power for now, I was just asking about a higher quality amp to upgrade to down the road.

Considering my amp bench tested at 1600RMS, certified (Or whatever it’s called), and I will only run it at 40%, theoretically the CAB 1600.1 amp shouldn’t be working hard at all. I guess I’ll just see how it goes. If it sounds impressive without an amp upgrade, I suppose Ill just let it be for...

If I remember correctly, I probably want an amp that pushes about twice what I need, correct? 1200W RMS would probably work for the 10s, but the 12 would probably need about 1600, right? 1600W RMS amp will probably get a bit salty, but I assume I could find a good one for under $1,000. After...

So I think I have decided to just go with the Focal 10s (Unless someone tells me that the Focal 12 sounds so good, I can save a crap load of money just doing a single 12). The place installing these compete with Focal and do really, really well. I am hoping since I am going this route, they know...

If you want SPL and you have about a grand for sub and box only, CAB or Sundown audio are pretty solid. I have a single 12 inch CAB with the CAB 1600.1 and it hits HARD. IMO, you will not find a Harding hitting sub and amp combo for the cost. Otherwise, a Sundown sub will also get you close to...

Thanks for all the replies. Trying to compare. Some of those subs require a lot less power and my amp is pretty beefy and will save a lot of money if I use the same amp and go with a more powerful sub instead of trying to purchase it all at the same time. I’ll look in to one of those new...

CTS-V We have a minivan and my wife has a crossover, so I Can sacrifice a decent amount. Just need to be able to put some groceries in there, maybe the kid’s backpacks etc.

Honestly, I am willing to save for (almost) whatever it takes to get loud and SQL. After I switched vehicles, I had a bunch of parts to sell and will have about $1500-2,000 to play with.

Hey folks, been a while. Y’all were a big help when you pointed me in the direction of the CAB 12 and CAB 1600.1. It hits HARD and down low the SPLs are intense. I now drive a 2018 Cadillac that has a pretty decent system in it. I want to “upgrade” to a more SQL type of set up. Was thinking 2...

So the sub looks good. No damage appears to be present. The speaker is actually bottoming out, which is odd, considering it's happening at higher frequencies. The shop said it's happening at around 32hz, but changes based on connection method, like Bluetooth vs USB. It hits hard and low without...