Recent content by immaculateaudio

yes, but your amplifier will see a 2 ohm load if you power a pair on each channel of a 2 channel amplifier... im refering to my configuration...i did away with soiund in the rear and have a pair of components in doors and a pair in kick panel pods!

guys... it does depend on the ambient temperture in the car, how hard he was cranking it, how long and what kind of music he was listening to...not always a wiring problem... also if his ground connection was loose then the amp could have been sending the sub a clipped signal all that time too.

i agree, components usually love clean power from a good 4 channel amp or a two channel ran at 2 ohms!

how's a 12v component going to operate at 17v without turning into a puddle of melted metal and plastic... u must be going to change some internal parts of each of your car audio components too huh?... stupidest topic i have ever seen.

Compustar 2wss-as

if the extra sensors you have are all dual stage sensors... then it will be necessary to splice into the shock sensor's blue and green wires... you WILL need to use diodes to isolate them... if you do not, the alarm will start to bug out; so to speak... the negative side of the diode which is...

it is the installers job to do the job right... take it back to the shop that installed it

you might be able to find it at the fuse box but otherwise remove the steering wheel shroud and probe wires with a DMM while turning the key to the on position... im going to assume you are looking for the true ignition wire which is the wire that shows 12v when the key is in the on and crank...

If you own a DMM, set it to AC volts... then go to the distributor on your motor... look for a harness going to it... one of the wires, a large gauge wire, is the motor side of the starter... near it should be a smaller gauge wire... probe it with the DMM while somebody in the car holds the down...

That wire is not needed unless your car needs to have a second true ignition wire energized to start the car... If your car doesnt have a second ignition wire (shows 12V in on and crank key positions), you dont need to wire up that relay... The accessory wire is the wire that controls your...

You must mean expanding foam... because styrofoam will melt as soon as that resin touches it... anyway, if u want to spend the least amount of time and make the least amount of mistakes use an MDF frame...spend most of your time on that part and it'll pay off later... also using chicken wire for...

If I Were You, Id Go With The Cutting Away Of The Bottom 3/4" Of The Stock Door Panels... Then Coming Up With A Sick Design Out Of Glass To Replace It With...

I Wouldnt Use Chicken Wire In A Million Years For A Project As Large As U Are Describing... Your Best Bet Is To Work More With Something Stronger Like Mdf... Lay The Frame Up Inside The Car First Using Mdf; Sides, Bottom, Rings For The Subs Etc. Then Stretch Your Fleece Over The Entire Area That...

7 Layers Of Chop Matte Is More Than Enough... Top It All Off With A Layer Of Duraglass Though!... Knock That Down And Then Apply Your Plastic; If U Are Prepping For Paint. Of Course!