Recent content by Gebrochen

... and here's how to use a relay when connecting multiple amps or other devices. http://www.the12volt.com/relays/page5.asp#rtol You need the relay because the remote wire doesn't have enough power to drive more than a few amplifiers.

Please explain so that maybe someone else will know where to look. I was suspecting a bad alternator or amp remotes wired to +. .. or maybe cables reversed, but that would really fubar most cars.

Hook up a volt meter to the power terminals of your amp. If it doesn't drop below 10.5-11 at full volume with the car running your electrical is ok for average use (some may have different thoughts). 8 guage is too small for 2000WRMS unless it's a really short run, though. Note: Lower voltages...

If you put a 2ohm resistor in series with a 2ohm speaker running at 40W, the speaker will get approximately 20W and the resistor would disipate the other 20 as heat. So, you would need a resistor rated a good bit higher than 20W. This isn't a good solution.

Diodes have a 0.7 - 1.7 voltage drop. If you have power supplies to spare laying around, I think I'd try it without them. I have 3 that do 12V @ 22A and that's how I'm planning to hook them up for a bench-test setup in my garage. If I get around to it anytime soon I'll post back to this...

1) Run a small piece of extenstion wire from the battery + and measure volts on the + of the amp. Look for voltage drops as you turn the amp up and it cuts out. Do the same for the - battery to the - of the amp. Ideally, you should always read near zero on this test. If you get a high...

double-posted

Get something like this, but maybe look for one that's not so beaten up: http://cgi.ebay.com/Mean-Well-SE-600-15-15V-40A-Switching-Power-Supply_W0QQitemZ150332947072QQihZ005QQcategoryZ58288QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Or go for something like an Astron or Pyramid...

This method wouldn't work. If you have a poor connection somewhere, you'll still read near 0 ohms even if only the very edge of your terminal is making a connection. Once you put that small area of connection under load, then your problems will appear.

Set your meter to volts. Touch one lead of the meter to the ring terminal and the other to a metal spot a few millimeters from the bolt. Crank your system up high and see if you read any voltage. Any voltage means you're getting a voltage drop across that spot. There is always going to be...

yeah, just sand any paint or coatings off the nuts and both sides of the surface you are bolting it too.

I bought mine from this guy on eBay: http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZcoppercableman

Doesn't matter. Just leave it in there.

If it's really close, trim off enough strands to fit into the lug and heat shrink it. The audio cable is fatter because it has a higher strand count and more airspace in there. Not necessarily because it's more copper per inch. I.E. a 1/0 cable with only 6 thick strands (or a 1/0 rod) will be...

[edit] nevermind, didn't look at that right and don't see a delete option here.