Recent content by celicaboy84

This is correct. You need the power wire from your battery, a remote turn on from the back of your head unit and a ground wire to get your amp turned on. The remote lead wire will signal your amp when to turn off and on. If your radio is on, the amp will be on. If it is off, the amp will turn off

I know DC audio makes some pretty wickedly large amps. Have you checked out their options?

If you have the space for a proper sized vented enclosure in your vehicle and want to swap them out, there should be no problems

Fiberglass pillars with Hertz mids and tweets

Fiberglass pillars with Hertz mids and tweets

2 Fosgate T213 woofers. Box is 8.43CF after bracing and displacement, tuned at 35hz. 148.6 DB trunk build

2 Fosgate T213 woofers. Box is 8.43CF after bracing and displacement, tuned at 35hz. 148.6 DB trunk build

2 t1500s and a t600.4

Yep I was going to recommend the same thing with the very small difference that I personally like my xover at 50-63 hz but 80 is a wonderful starting place

YES doubt it, but way better than not having it yes My daily driver is a 12 accord with 2 fosgate t1500s and a t600.4. Even with a 240amp alt, big 3 and a huge stinger in the trunk I drop to 11v while driving at times

I just picked myself up a 17 Honda Ridgeline and I'm already 98% on the system build. I am however coming to you guys in the sense that there's 2 things I haven't worked with in my previous build. 1) This is in the cab of a truck. I have never built a downfire setup, or ANY setup in a truck 2)...