What Subs should I get?

[Abismael Latorre]

So, I'm on a tight budget and I would like any and all opinions, I currently have

MTX Audio TNP212D2​

and I'm pretty sure there toast, don't know how it happen cuase I don't have a big system nor tons of power going into them, but any way I, think I should upgrade if I have to buy a new set of woofers, I was thinking one of these 2 diffrent subs...

MTX Audio TNP212DV​

or

SDR-12 | 12" 1,200 Watt Max Power Car Subwoofer​

I currently a small amp, Taramps 400 Bass at 2ohms...

Any and all suggestions and opinions would be very helpful.

Thanks

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[CarAudio.com - Hal AI Bots]

So, I'm on a tight budget and I would like any and all opinions, I currently have

MTX Audio TNP212D2​

and I'm pretty sure there toast, don't know how it happen cuase I don't have a big system nor tons of power going into them, but any way I, think I should upgrade if I have to buy a new set of woofers, I was thinking one of these 2 diffrent subs...

MTX Audio TNP212DV​

or

SDR-12 | 12" 1,200 Watt Max Power Car Subwoofer​

I currently a small amp, Taramps 400 Bass at 2ohms...

Any and all suggestions and opinions would be very helpful.

Thanks

It looks like you're experiencing some issues with your current MTX Audio TNP212D2 subwoofers, and you're considering upgrading to either the MTX Audio TNP212DV or the SDR-12 subwoofer. Let's break down your options and some considerations to help you make an informed decision.

### Current Situation:
1. **Subwoofer Condition**: If your MTX Audio TNP212D2 subs are toast, the first step is to determine how they were damaged. Common reasons include overpowering, underpowering, or incorrect wiring. Make sure to check your amp settings and wiring to avoid future issues.

### Potential Upgrades:
1. **MTX Audio TNP212DV**:
- This is a slight upgrade over your current model, providing improved sound quality and efficiency. It’s designed to handle similar power levels, making it a good match for your Taramps 400 Bass amp.
- Pros: Brand consistency, likely to match well with your current setup, and a straightforward installation.
- Cons: If you're looking for a significant output increase, this might not deliver a dramatic change compared to what you already had.

2. **SDR-12 | 12" 1,200 Watt Max Power Car Subwoofer**:
- This sub can handle more power than your current options, which could be beneficial if you decide to upgrade your amp in the future.
- Pros: Higher power handling and potentially better bass response; might give you that extra punch you’re looking for.
- Cons: Ensure your current amp can adequately drive this sub; otherwise, you risk damaging it if it's underpowered. Also, make sure it fits into your enclosure.

### Recommendations:
- **Check Compatibility**: Make sure that the impedance of the new subs matches your amp’s output (2 ohms in your case). The MTX Audio TNP212DV is a safer bet since it’s similar to what you had.
- **Budget Considerations**: If you're on a tight budget, consider if the price difference between the two options is justifiable for your needs.
- **Future Upgrades**: If you plan on upgrading your amp soon, the SDR-12 might be the better option to future-proof your system.
- **Installation**: Ensure that your wiring and enclosure are suitable for the new subs. Poor installation can lead to damage, even with new equipment.

### Final Thoughts:
It's essential to weigh the pros and cons of each option in terms of your current setup and future plans. If you have any more questions or need further clarification on any aspect, feel free to ask! Additionally, I encourage other members to chime in with their experiences or recommendations regarding these subs.

 

[B E N]

What do you mean by toast? Did they just quit playing or are they making a bad noise? If they quit playing I would be looking at wiring first, then the amplifier.

Since you already have a box are you opposed to buying drivers separately and just loading them into the box you have?

 

[Abismael Latorre]

What do you mean by toast? Did they just quit playing or are they making a bad noise? If they quit playing I would be looking at wiring first, then the amplifier.

Since you already have a box are you opposed to buying drivers separately and just loading them into the box you have?

They stopped playing all of a sudden, but I have a small sub that I put in its place to see if the amp or something wrong with the wireing but that small sub plays fine... That's why I think the sub went bad...

 

[Abismael Latorre]

What do you mean by toast? Did they just quit playing or are they making a bad noise? If they quit playing I would be looking at wiring first, then the amplifier.

Since you already have a box are you opposed to buying drivers separately and just loading them into the box you have?

I could probably go either way, becuase I don't know if the tune of the box I currently have would be good for any sub I buy sicne they'll be able handle more power...

 

[B E N]

They stopped playing all of a sudden, but I have a small sub that I put in its place to see if the amp or something wrong with the wireing but that small sub plays fine... That's why I think the sub went bad...

I would be looking harder at the wiring. 2 subs failing at the same time is unlikely. Get a DVOM and a screwdriver and investigate what's going on inside the box. If you are on a budget it makes sense to replace as little as possible. If you want an upgrade that is a different flow chart.

 

[Old_Slapper]

I would take the subs to a shop and have them checked. They might do it for free because it wouldn't take very long.

However, if you get new subs, you would want to stay with subs that are around 200 to 250 watts RMS, each. Otherwise, you will not get the performance you are paying for. Higher power subs are stiffer.

 

[Abismael Latorre]

I would take the subs to a shop and have them checked. They might do it for free because it wouldn't take very long.

However, if you get new subs, you would want to stay with subs that are around 200 to 250 watts RMS, each. Otherwise, you will not get the performance you are paying for. Higher power subs are stiffer.

Thank you, I'll probably take them to a shop this weekend, What do you think about the Kicker Comp DC12 or is there another pair you'd suggest instead?

 

[Abismael Latorre]

I would be looking harder at the wiring. 2 subs failing at the same time is unlikely. Get a DVOM and a screwdriver and investigate what's going on inside the box. If you are on a budget it makes sense to replace as little as possible. If you want an upgrade that is a different flow chart.

Thank you, I can definitly investigate more this weekend.

 

[Old_Slapper]

Thank you, I'll probably take them to a shop this weekend, What do you think about the Kicker Comp DC12 or is there another pair you'd suggest instead?

That Kicker set up is pretty good. It pounds really hard. Not the best for clarity, but I don't think you will miss it.

 

[mastershake575 10+ year member]

Any and all suggestions and opinions would be very helpful.

Thanks

How many months/years did you use the subwoofer before it failed ?

Not saying this is 100% the issue but it is common for more entry level subwoofers to not have enough output for the drivers liking so they ended up trying to increase the loudness by either 1. Setting the Gain too high on the amplifier 2. Running a bass boost knob from the amplifier to the drivers side seat or 3. Trying to boost the bass via a headunit setting

Doing either of those 3 (or god forbid 2 or 3 at the same time) can kill a subwoofer pretty quick.

 

[Abismael Latorre]

How many months/years did you use the subwoofer before it failed ?

Not saying this is 100% the issue but it is common for more entry level subwoofers to not have enough output for the drivers liking so they ended up trying to increase the loudness by either 1. Setting the Gain too high on the amplifier 2. Running a bass boost knob from the amplifier to the drivers side seat or 3. Trying to boost the bass via a headunit setting

Doing either of those 3 (or god forbid 2 or 3 at the same time) can kill a subwoofer pretty quick.

I've had the subs for about 3 years but the amp I had just changed about a year ago (Taramps 400 Bass) , I confess that I did your Number 3 on your list, but since this issue came about I figured out that the subs aren't blown but the Conector terminal on the sub box is the issue, why that went bad I don't know, I tested everything with a multimeter and that's how I figured that out. I ordered another terminal, now just waiting on them to arrive to install...