Featured Upgrading Sound System in 2010 F150

[Andrewj299]

I’m trying to set up a new system in the 2010 f150 I just got. I’m familiar with subs I’m gonna put 4 8” subs in a custom ported box and I have the amp and all ready to go. I want to buy speaker pods and drive the speakers off of another 4 channel amp. I’m attaching the photo of the pods. I’m looking at help deciding what speakers to run and help powering them properly while trying to be as cost efficient as possible. I’m not trying to do car comp I’m just doing this as a hobby and for trips just having quality sound. I was thinking maybe 4 mid-range 6.5” loudspeakers, 4 mid range bass 6.5 speakers. Then for the 4 3.5” speakers in the front, run a coaxial full range set and power these from head unit.

I was looking at DS18 6.5” mid loudspeakers which run at 200w 4 OHM

Also looking at DS-18 pro 6.5” mid-bass at 250w 4 OHM

My idea was to pair these with 4 channel DS18 amp which runs 320w @2 ohm per channel. I would be able to run 1 mid bass & loudspeaker per pod. Tie them in to make them 2 OHM. Speaker RMS would be 450w total for both speakers and amp could output 320W. This is under powering but would this work? I always match my subs up properly with my output of amp, so for speakers I was trying to get as close as possible. Also don’t know much about mid-bass vs mid loud + coax and etc looking for advice

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[CarAudio.com - Hal AI Bots]

I’m trying to set up a new system in the 2010 f150 I just got. I’m familiar with subs I’m gonna put 4 8” subs in a custom ported box and I have the amp and all ready to go. I want to buy speaker pods and drive the speakers off of another 4 channel amp. I’m attaching the photo of the pods. I’m looking at help deciding what speakers to run and help powering them properly while trying to be as cost efficient as possible. I’m not trying to do car comp I’m just doing this as a hobby and for trips just having quality sound. I was thinking maybe 4 mid-range 6.5” loudspeakers, 4 mid range bass 6.5 speakers. Then for the 4 3.5” speakers in the front, run a coaxial full range set and power these from head unit.

I was looking at DS18 6.5” mid loudspeakers which run at 200w 4 OHM

Also looking at DS-18 pro 6.5” mid-bass at 250w 4 OHM

My idea was to pair these with 4 channel DS18 amp which runs 320w @2 ohm per channel. I would be able to run 1 mid bass & loudspeaker per pod. Tie them in to make them 2 OHM. Speaker RMS would be 450w total for both speakers and amp could output 320W. This is under powering but would this work? I always match my subs up properly with my output of amp, so for speakers I was trying to get as close as possible. Also don’t know much about mid-bass vs mid loud + coax and etc looking for advice

It sounds like you're putting together a solid audio system for your 2010 F150! Here are some thoughts on your setup:

### Speaker Selection
1. **Mid-Range Speakers**: The DS18 6.5” mid loudspeakers (200W RMS) and DS18 pro 6.5” mid-bass speakers (250W RMS) are good choices. Pairing one of each in each pod could give you a balanced sound, with the mid-bass providing more punch and the mid loudspeaker offering clarity.

2. **Powering**: Using a 4-channel DS18 amp rated at 320W @ 2 ohms per channel is a reasonable plan. Wiring the mid loudspeaker and mid-bass speaker in parallel to achieve a 2-ohm load per channel should work. While the amp may be slightly underpowered for the combined 450W RMS of both speakers, it's generally better to underpower than overpower, as long as you’re cautious with volume levels.

3. **Coaxial Speakers**: For the 3.5” speakers in the front, a coaxial full-range set is a solid choice. They’ll provide good sound quality for higher frequencies and can be powered by your head unit, which usually has enough power for smaller speakers.

### Considerations
- **Impedance Matching**: Make sure the amp can handle the total impedance load you are planning to run. Mixing different impedances can sometimes lead to an uneven power distribution.

- **Volume Levels**: Since you’ll be underpowering the speakers a bit, keep an eye on the volume levels to avoid distortion. You can gradually increase the volume to find a safe operating range.

- **Sound Quality**: Experiment with speaker placement and settings on your head unit to ensure you’re getting the best sound quality.

### Final Tips
- **Installation**: Make sure that your installation is secure and that there's no rattling from the pods or other components.
- **Sound Deadening**: Consider adding sound deadening material in the doors and around the pods to enhance sound quality and reduce road noise.

Overall, it sounds like you’re on the right track! Enjoy your audio project!

 

[supernov4]

Not sure that ds18 makes a midbass speaker
I think they are all pro audio style drivers 100hz and up
Ideally a generic high pass for a midbass would be around 80hz

But if you wanna get loud sure just find any spl brand driver labeled midbass

You wouldn't need a ds18 "midbass"
And a ds18 "loudspeaker"
Without looking into it I'm assuming their "loudspeakers" probably just play higher in frequency

Just grab couple matching ds18 midbass drivers per door
And 150 watts each to keep up with a few 8's is plenty im sure lol

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

If you want to dig down a bit lower than the DS18 midRANGE (not a midbass driver) pro style drivers, AND still have high efficiency with sound quality too, look at Steven's audio MB6s, MB8s. whichever will fit.

You can actually have good-sounding LAF, it's possible, but mount your tweeters up on the door or in a dash or pillar, on either withot without a pod, tweeters **** when mounted low like that in the doors.

Here are the PODs:

If your "A" pillars already have the tweeter setup, use them, or-

Pardon Our Interruption...

DOWN4SOUND Single 8" Speaker Pods for the Front Door of a 21-24 Ford F-150-Ford F-250 F-350

Buy Car Audio Online the real #1 Source, Fast Free Shipping, EZ Financing, Price Match Guarantee, freebies in every order, Shop Now!

www.down4soundshop.com

Get a pair (1 on each door) of the 2-ohm version of these 8" 450-watt RMS drivers; they will walk all over a set of the DS18's, and they are on sale for $98.00 each.

MB8 Midbass Driver (ea)

MB-8 Spec Sheet.PDF The MB8 is a hi-fidelity high sensitivity midbass driver. Perfect for use in 2 way and 3-way systems, or with our HLCD for an incredible horn loaded audio system. The MB8 is unique, the high-power handling (450 watts) high fidelity, and high sensitivity, produce audio...

stevens.audio

To those, mount a set of these up in the door, or in the "A" pillars, they are a 150 watt RMS silk dome with a low fs of 640hz, chambered back high power handling tweeter that actually sounds good while getting very loud too.

$99.00 a pair:

SA1 25mm Tweeter (pair)

HOLIDAY SPECIAL $99 PER PAIR Spec Sheet: SA1 Spec Sheet.PDF The SA1 is our component tweeter for use in uncompromising audio systems. They have a bright and airy top end, with excellent dynamics and detail. This is achieved with no forwardness or listening fatigue even at high levels...

stevens.audio

If you prefer, I have 2 pairs of these, 2 pairs, 1 pair, for 125.00, 2 pairs for $225.00, shipped to the lower 48:

XPLT28W – SQL WAVEGUIDE TWEETER – XCELSUS AUDIO

www.xcelsus.com.au

That 8" or 6" comes in 2 or 4 ohm impedances, I'd go 2 in this instance.

Assume you get the 2-ohm 8" Stevens, you have a driver that has a thermal RMS limit of 450 watts!

That allows you to get a decent 4-channel amp in the 150 to 200 x 4 watts RMS, or get the 4-ohm stevens and a 6-ch ampl bridge for and still have 2 left for the tweeters.

 

[supernov4]

I second the stevens audio over the ds18

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

That 8" or 6" comes in 2 or 4 ohm impedances, I'd go 2 in this instance.

Assume you get the 2-ohm 8" Stevens, you have a driver that has a thermal RMS limit of 450 watts!

That allows you to get a decent 4-channel amp in the 150 to 200 x 4 watts RMS, or get the 4-ohm stevens and a 6-ch ampl bridge for and still have 2 left for the tweeters.

Most decent amplifiers will almost double their output at 2 ohms, thus the recommendation. Or, you get a 6-channel, say one that has 6x100-150 watts, bridge 4 channels into 2, for staggered output, something like this:

*NOTE*

(This requires that you have the 4-ohm drivers)

It's $280.00, and if you sign up for email notifications or are a first-time buyer, it looks like you can get an additional 11% off, which puts it at $250.00.

Run 150x2 to the front tweeters, bridge the remaining 4 channels for 520x2 to the 8" midbass drivers!

CT-150.6D // 1500 Watts RMS 6-Channel Car Amplifier

The CT Sounds CT-150.6D is a compact full-range class d 6 channel car amplifier. The multi-channel amplifier features a Low Pass Filter (LPF), High Pass Filter (HPF), and Bass Boost so you can get the exact sound you are looking for out of your amplifier.

www.ctsounds.com

 

[Andrewj299]

If you want to dig down a bit lower than the DS18 midRANGE (not a midbass driver) pro style drivers, AND still have high efficiency with sound quality too, look at Steven's audio MB6s, MB8s. whichever will fit.

You can actually have good-sounding LAF, it's possible, but mount your tweeters up on the door or in a dash or pillar, on either withot without a pod, tweeters **** when mounted low like that in the doors.

Here are the PODs:

If your "A" pillars already have the tweeter setup, use them, or-

Pardon Our Interruption...

DOWN4SOUND Single 8" Speaker Pods for the Front Door of a 21-24 Ford F-150-Ford F-250 F-350

Buy Car Audio Online the real #1 Source, Fast Free Shipping, EZ Financing, Price Match Guarantee, freebies in every order, Shop Now!

www.down4soundshop.com

Get a pair (1 on each door) of the 2-ohm version of these 8" 450-watt RMS drivers; they will walk all over a set of the DS18's, and they are on sale for $98.00 each.

MB8 Midbass Driver (ea)

MB-8 Spec Sheet.PDF The MB8 is a hi-fidelity high sensitivity midbass driver. Perfect for use in 2 way and 3-way systems, or with our HLCD for an incredible horn loaded audio system. The MB8 is unique, the high-power handling (450 watts) high fidelity, and high sensitivity, produce audio...

stevens.audio

To those, mount a set of these up in the door, or in the "A" pillars, they are a 150 watt RMS silk dome with a low fs of 640hz, chambered back high power handling tweeter that actually sounds good while getting very loud too.

$99.00 a pair:

SA1 25mm Tweeter (pair)

HOLIDAY SPECIAL $99 PER PAIR Spec Sheet: SA1 Spec Sheet.PDF The SA1 is our component tweeter for use in uncompromising audio systems. They have a bright and airy top end, with excellent dynamics and detail. This is achieved with no forwardness or listening fatigue even at high levels...

stevens.audio

If you prefer, I have 2 pairs of these, 2 pairs, 1 pair, for 125.00, 2 pairs for $225.00, shipped to the lower 48:

XPLT28W – SQL WAVEGUIDE TWEETER – XCELSUS AUDIO

www.xcelsus.com.au

That 8" or 6" comes in 2 or 4 ohm impedances, I'd go 2 in this instance.

Assume you get the 2-ohm 8" Stevens, you have a driver that has a thermal RMS limit of 450 watts!

That allows you to get a decent 4-channel amp in the 150 to 200 x 4 watts RMS, or get the 4-ohm stevens and a 6-ch ampl bridge for and still have 2 left for the tweeters.

The only issue I’m looking on the down4sound website and a few others. The only variation of 09-14 f150 pods I’m seeing is dual 6.5” with dual 3.5” for front pods, or dual 8” and dual tweeter front pods, they also have just a dual 6.5”. For the rear I see dual 6.5” or single 8”. That’s the only reason I was looking at getting so many speakers that are a little bit cheaper on ds18 due to the quantity I’d be having to get.

 

[Andrewj299]

If you want to dig down a bit lower than the DS18 midRANGE (not a midbass driver) pro style drivers, AND still have high efficiency with sound quality too, look at Steven's audio MB6s, MB8s. whichever will fit.

You can actually have good-sounding LAF, it's possible, but mount your tweeters up on the door or in a dash or pillar, on either withot without a pod, tweeters **** when mounted low like that in the doors.

Here are the PODs:

If your "A" pillars already have the tweeter setup, use them, or-

Pardon Our Interruption...

DOWN4SOUND Single 8" Speaker Pods for the Front Door of a 21-24 Ford F-150-Ford F-250 F-350

Buy Car Audio Online the real #1 Source, Fast Free Shipping, EZ Financing, Price Match Guarantee, freebies in every order, Shop Now!

www.down4soundshop.com

Get a pair (1 on each door) of the 2-ohm version of these 8" 450-watt RMS drivers; they will walk all over a set of the DS18's, and they are on sale for $98.00 each.

MB8 Midbass Driver (ea)

MB-8 Spec Sheet.PDF The MB8 is a hi-fidelity high sensitivity midbass driver. Perfect for use in 2 way and 3-way systems, or with our HLCD for an incredible horn loaded audio system. The MB8 is unique, the high-power handling (450 watts) high fidelity, and high sensitivity, produce audio...

stevens.audio

To those, mount a set of these up in the door, or in the "A" pillars, they are a 150 watt RMS silk dome with a low fs of 640hz, chambered back high power handling tweeter that actually sounds good while getting very loud too.

$99.00 a pair:

SA1 25mm Tweeter (pair)

HOLIDAY SPECIAL $99 PER PAIR Spec Sheet: SA1 Spec Sheet.PDF The SA1 is our component tweeter for use in uncompromising audio systems. They have a bright and airy top end, with excellent dynamics and detail. This is achieved with no forwardness or listening fatigue even at high levels...

stevens.audio

If you prefer, I have 2 pairs of these, 2 pairs, 1 pair, for 125.00, 2 pairs for $225.00, shipped to the lower 48:

XPLT28W – SQL WAVEGUIDE TWEETER – XCELSUS AUDIO

www.xcelsus.com.au

That 8" or 6" comes in 2 or 4 ohm impedances, I'd go 2 in this instance.

Assume you get the 2-ohm 8" Stevens, you have a driver that has a thermal RMS limit of 450 watts!

That allows you to get a decent 4-channel amp in the 150 to 200 x 4 watts RMS, or get the 4-ohm stevens and a 6-ch ampl bridge for and still have 2 left for the tweeters.

Not sure that ds18 makes a midbass speaker
I think they are all pro audio style drivers 100hz and up
Ideally a generic high pass for a midbass would be around 80hz

But if you wanna get loud sure just find any spl brand driver labeled midbass

You wouldn't need a ds18 "midbass"
And a ds18 "loudspeaker"
Without looking into it I'm assuming their "loudspeakers" probably just play higher in frequency

Just grab couple matching ds18 midbass drivers per door
And 150 watts each to keep up with a few 8's is plenty im sure lol

I’m not sur on car audio that’s why I came here yall probably forgot more than I’ll ever know . I see these mid-bass on ds18. It says they have

Most decent amplifiers will almost double their output at 2 ohms, thus the recommendation. Or, you get a 6-channel, say one that has 6x100-150 watts, bridge 4 channels into 2, for staggered output, something like this:

*NOTE*

(This requires that you have the 4-ohm drivers)

It's $280.00, and if you sign up for email notifications or are a first-time buyer, it looks like you can get an additional 11% off, which puts it at $250.00.

Run 150x2 to the front tweeters, bridge the remaining 4 channels for 520x2 to the 8" midbass drivers!

CT-150.6D // 1500 Watts RMS 6-Channel Car Amplifier

The CT Sounds CT-150.6D is a compact full-range class d 6 channel car amplifier. The multi-channel amplifier features a Low Pass Filter (LPF), High Pass Filter (HPF), and Bass Boost so you can get the exact sound you are looking for out of your amplifier.

www.ctsounds.com

what do you think about getting the single 8” rear pod and putting the Steven’s audio you suggested in the rear. Using a 4 channel amp that outputs 320w RMS @ 2 OHM. Wire those 2 on a seperate channel alone. Then take the 6.5” dual up front and do some cheap ds18 loud speakers and get 2 4 ohm per side and tie them together into the other 2 channels. Run the 3.5” coax I was thinking off of the head unit then maybe add Apillar tweeters in.

 

[supernov4]

I’m not sur on car audio that’s why I came here yall probably forgot more than I’ll ever know . I see these mid-bass on ds18. It says they have

Technically I suppose they are midbass
The point i was trying to make was
Ideally in a car environment you would want your midbass in front to play down to 70 or 80hz

If your rear subs are playing up to like 100hz it can draw attention to the rear
Which might not be a deal breaker for everyone
But so many options out there

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

I’m not sur on car audio that’s why I came here yall probably forgot more than I’ll ever know . I see these mid-bass on ds18. It says they have

what do you think about getting the single 8” rear pod and putting the Steven’s audio you suggested in the rear. Using a 4 channel amp that outputs 320w RMS @ 2 OHM. Wire those 2 on a seperate channel alone. Then take the 6.5” dual up front and do some cheap ds18 loud speakers and get 2 4 ohm per side and tie them together into the other 2 channels. Run the 3.5” coax I was thinking off of the head unit then maybe add Apillar tweeters in.

Me thinks you have got it backwards! Lol,

Concentrate on the front stage, use the rear as fill.

That said, I believe that you have 5x7/6x8 openings front and rear, pillar-mounted tweeters. Before you jump in and use pods, have you considered just modifying the door panel to accommodate a 6x9"?

Midbass is hands-down the most difficult thing to tackle in the auto environment, and 6x9s have roughly the same cone area as an 8" (slightly more usually), and cone area is king for all things bass or midbass; it's just physics.


The DS18 lineup, except for just a few, are not midbass, and the midbass they do sell is around $200 a pair, not exactly inexpensive.

What specific models were you looking at?

What is your goal, balls to the walls loud SPL or SQL?

 

[Andrewj299]

Me thinks you have got it backwards! Lol,

Concentrate on the front stage, use the rear as fill.

That said, I believe that you have 5x7/6x8 openings front and rear, pillar-mounted tweeters. Before you jump in and use pods, have you considered just modifying the door panel to accommodate a 6x9"?

Midbass is hands-down the most difficult thing to tackle in the auto environment, and 6x9s have roughly the same cone area as an 8" (slightly more usually), and cone area is king for all things bass or midbass; it's just physics.


The DS18 lineup, except for just a few, are not midbass, and the midbass they do sell is around $200 a pair, not exactly inexpensive.

What specific models were you looking at?

What is your goal, balls to the walls loud SPL or SQL?

I’m looking to have it be sorta loud but be very crisp/clear

 

[Andrewj299]

Me thinks you have got it backwards! Lol,

Concentrate on the front stage, use the rear as fill.

That said, I believe that you have 5x7/6x8 openings front and rear, pillar-mounted tweeters. Before you jump in and use pods, have you considered just modifying the door panel to accommodate a 6x9"?

Midbass is hands-down the most difficult thing to tackle in the auto environment, and 6x9s have roughly the same cone area as an 8" (slightly more usually), and cone area is king for all things bass or midbass; it's just physics.


The DS18 lineup, except for just a few, are not midbass, and the midbass they do sell is around $200 a pair, not exactly inexpensive.

What specific models were you looking at?

What is your goal, balls to the walls loud SPL or SQL?

This is my first time trying to do anything other than just regular subs in the back. I can modify it for mid-bass 6x9 in the back and maintain them in the mesh of door no pods. I can also do the Steven’s audio 8’s in pods up front with tweeters. It would save some money

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

This is my first time trying to do anything other than just regular subs in the back. I can modify it for mid-bass 6x9 in the back and maintain them in the mesh of door no pods. I can also do the Steven’s audio 8’s in pods up front with tweeters. It would save some money

Well, that's great and preferable, as the additional air behind any driver you use is better suited to an infinite baffle (door panel exposed to the door cavity) than to a Pod affixed to the door card, which provides very little air volume for the midbass to use.

Frankly, it's one of the reasons that midranges are used so often "on" the door, as the reasoning goes, 100-120hz plus doesn't require much in the way of volume behind the driver, midbass and bass, on the other hand, requires a good amount to get low.