Tinsel lead slap

[SlugButter]

Have a tang band 6.5 inch subwoofer that has mean tinsel slap. Could I just use gorilla glue and glue that thing down to the spider? Parts express doesn’t believe me……but it’s happening.

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[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

I would use 5 min epoxy. I don't like gorilla glue since it expands, has lots of bubbles, and is pretty flakey.

Gorilla glue does have a 5 min epoxy though.

 

[SlugButter]

I thought so. The guy who emailed me at parts express seemed really worried about unbalancing the subwoofer. He thinks it’s my box and I have port noise, but I know better. I can physically see the tinsel slapping in free air. The sub sounds awesome on lows, except the tinsel slap. It’s not unloading, hits hard, sounds great…..until it gets moving on rap lows. I didn’t even notice it until I decided to throw on the west coast hip hop station and some lows kicked in.

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

I can physically see the tinsel slapping in free air

In these situations I would heat the tinsel lead at the connector and pull excess lead through the hole.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

I have attempted this sort of thing DIY and the tinsel failed where it glued to the spider. Some companies used to just stick a piece of felt to the back of the cone where the lead hits so that you don't hear it. I'd start there and try to secure the tinsel to the spider only as a last resort.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

I have attempted this sort of thing DIY and the tinsel failed where it glued to the spider. Some companies used to just stick a piece of felt to the back of the cone where the lead hits so that you don't hear it. I'd start there and try to secure the tinsel to the spider only as a last resort.

I came here to say the felt thing. I would start here also.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

You don't want to put tension on the leads. That vibration of the woofer as it plays, if there's pulling stress on those leads, I would expect that to cause an early failure where you'd have your leads break.

Another thought I had but might not be the best, you could put a very small zip tie on the terminal there and very very softly take some of the slack out of the lead, so that wire doesn't rise up as high near the back of the cone. Just take barely enough slack out where it doesn't slap. Just some thoughts.

What's the speaker in? You could be getting excessive movement maybe, there could be multiple reasons this is happening. Just calculating is all.

 

[SlugButter]

You don't want to put tension on the leads. That vibration of the woofer as it plays, if there's pulling stress on those leads, I would expect that to cause an early failure where you'd have your leads break.

Another thought I had but might not be the best, you could put a very small zip tie on the terminal there and very very softly take some of the slack out of the lead, so that wire doesn't rise up as high near the back of the cone. Just take barely enough slack out where it doesn't slap. Just some thoughts.

What's the speaker in? You could be getting excessive movement maybe, there could be multiple reasons this is happening. Just calculating is all.

I have it in .45 cubes at 35 hz, 2 inch round port flared on both ends out to 3 inches. My first thought was port noise, so I added the flares. I ran it in free air and the sub is quiet as a mouse, except for the slap. Should’ve done that before adding the flares. I have the 5.25 and the 3 inch versions in a similar audio setups and they play beautifully. I have the same type of amplifier board running the 5.25 as the 6.5 and I can push that 5.25 sub to the limit with no issue. The 6.5 moves a lot more and plays audibly lower than the 5.25 though.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

I have it in .45 cubes at 35 hz, 2 inch round port flared on both ends out to 3 inches. My first thought was port noise, so I added the flares. I ran it in free air and the sub is quiet as a mouse, except for the slap. Should’ve done that before adding the flares. I have the 5.25 and the 3 inch versions in a similar audio setups and they play beautifully. I have the same type of amplifier board running the 5.25 as the 6.5 and I can push that 5.25 sub to the limit with no issue. The 6.5 moves a lot more and plays audibly lower than the 5.25 though.

Do you run midrange out of that 6.5?

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

What if you sewed the leads to the spider about halfway to the coil with just a few little small strings and tied it off? You could run some very small string or small fishing line and tie the middle into the middle of the spider by using a hook needle and making sure you poke a hole in between the spider fabric, like how it grids on top of itself.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

Also, just a side note->

If you add mass to that woofer, it'll play lower but maybe be a little sloppier. I could run t/s for you on this speaker if you have OG t/s and I could calculate what adding moving mass to this 6.5 would do to your Fs, if you wanna play around some with low notes.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

If this woofer is IB capable, I think possibly it's best application would be a t-line.

Can I design a horn for you for this speaker?

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

I'll do it for free if you promise to build it. I might even send you some money for wood, if that's necessary, if you want to help me out.

 

[SlugButter]

 

[SlugButter]

MMS is 9.91 g