70wx4 decsently clean amp VS 60wx4 really clean amp

Timbo74

CarAudio.com Regular
I have three 4 channel amps, but one is out of the running.
What amp would you rather run in an active setup to your doors?
I have one class d amp that is rated 70x4 @4ohm it’s signal to noise ratio is 93db
I also have a class a/b amp that that is rated at 60x4 @4ohm but it’s signal to noise ratio is 100db

Which would you run?
I’m leaning towards the class a/b amp for its shear cleaness.
 
Depends on what you're running with them and what your goals are!!! I personally would go with the 70x4 because of the headroom available. A lot of people don't realize that 70 watts to a mid or tweeter is a lot of power!! My fronts are rated at 100 watts and I am planning on running a 100x4 but I highly doubt I will be sending the full 100 to them!! I remember back in the day I had a Kenwood that was pushing 50x4. I ran the fronts off of 2 channels and ran a (2) 12" pioneer subs off the rear channel. The fronts were overpowering loud!!
 
I think my Boston SL60s are 80w rms.
I’m running 140w per side right now active.
I was just curious what the effect would be on sq, if any, if I went to 120w per side, but with a bit cleaner amp.
 
What are the amps? (*Decently)
I was running my JL jx400.4d, and Alpine mrv 500-1 d....the JL I believe has a 93db s/n ratio, the Alpine has 80 something...where both the Ts are 100db s/n ratio.
I just changed over to a CT T-1000.1d
And a T-60.4....I only bought because I had a 20% discount, and I wanted matching amps.
Thanks for being descent.
 
This is what I got done today, and maybe it’s the tuning, but I most definitely gained some loudness! The doors are playing louder, and clearer. The sub is hitting harder for sure, and playing louder.
I’m very happy!
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I
Run them both and do a trial period for like a week and let your ears decide.

Btw, why are you running a cap?
I have actually been running the JL, Alpine amp setup for a few weeks, with dsp...and I can tell you for sure already...the CT amp setup is much better.
My doors are louder, have better mb, and cleaner highs. The type r seems tighter, more punchy, less boomy on certain music, and can play louder, and cleaner....So far Its an improvement.
 
Enclosure looks like particle board. Holding up ok?
Actually, yes so far. I went with particle board, because it was all I could get in town, and this enclosure was a test to see if I liked a custom ported enclosure vs my sealed enclosure. I didn’t want to pay someone with a truck to transport a sheet of mdf from Menards, to my house, without even knowing if I would like it. The particle board enclosure cost me $13 or 14 bucks including glue.
The type r is eventually going in the other car, I’m looking at getting a nice ten instead, because real estate is very limited in my car. Currently, I cannot even install the box in the rear of the trunk due to the torsion springs interfering....I know the enclosure could just be redesigned, but I just want more room.
I know it’s gonna be a wait, but I’m thinking about ordering this Monday, and building a custom vented enclosure. https://ficaraudio.com/product/x-series-x10/
 
Particle board? Get that pos wood (if ya can call it wood) replaced asap. Must flex like a mother. Did you brace it at all? That's not a fair test unless your sealed box was made with particle board.
Idk the Menards in my area sell half sheets of plywood and mdf.
Don't put that fi 10 in a particle board enclosure. I'll come over and bi@#$ slap you myself. Wi isn't that far away..
 
Particle board? Get that pos wood (if ya can call it wood) replaced asap. Must flex like a mother. Did you brace it at all? That's not a fair test unless your sealed box was made with particle board.
Idk the Menards in my area sell half sheets of plywood and mdf.
Don't put that fi 10 in a particle board enclosure. I'll come over and bi@#$ slap you myself. Wi isn't that far away..
Yes I braced it. No, I see no flex at all. And I really doubt you’d even be able to tell the difference...it sounds good. People have used particle board do enclosures before...they just don’t hold up well if they are moved a lot, it don’t hold up to screws well, and water destroys it.....other then that, it works well, and sounds good.
No, the FI won’t go in a particle board enclosure.
It seems to me that plywood wouldn’t work as well as particle...it’s less dense, and has cavities.
 
Particle board is an insult to your type r. It's too brittle for speaker building and in no way better then plywood. Not all plywood is created equal you can get void free plywood. Even the stuff with voids is better then particle board and can make an argument that it's better then mdf. Strength of the plywood is in the number of layers. Personally prefer using 11 to 13 layers void free but I don't skimp on wood when it comes to enclosures but have used plywood with voids a number of times while learning to build speaker boxes
I get the impression this is your 1st ported box possibly 1st enclosure build ? Next test could be to build the same enclosure with better material for a true comparison.
 
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Timbo74

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