Recent content by jrz126

Its hard to say what went bad. If I had to guess, I'd say the mosfets in the powersupply. Take the cover off it and takes some pics of it. If you saw sparks then there should be some burn damage around the trouble area.

Can you post some pics of the preamp board and the location of that switch? Are you sure that switch is for the amp bypass? If so, you can probably just get away with installing your own switch, or even just short the pins with a piece of wire.

I just built and installed the new box for my subs. Unfortunitly I didnt have the camera during the build, so I only have a couple pics of them installed. I have roughly 2.75 cubes per sub, with a 3"x14" port that is roughly 20" long. (I tried tuning to 32hz). I would have like to have had...

You'll need a clamp on meter like this: It'll just clamp around your power wire. A DMM usually needs to be placed in series with the device and they are usually only capable of measuring 10A.

2 300A In-line fuses up front. one on the batt and one on the alt.

If the amps are rated the same and you have the gains set the same, then you will get the same power output. The class D is more effcient, so it takes less power in to make the same output power as a class AB.

I got my Tek-2430A (100 MHz 2-Ch Digital) for only $6.25. I bought it from work for $0.25 / lb. I'd suggest just using a DMM to set it

make sure your speaker wire going to the woofers isnt touching ground anywhere

I also suggest checking the VCs with an ohm meter. I just bought 2 15" L7s and the one had a bad VC. Dunno if that would cause popping or not, but it couldnt hurt to check it.

I just bought 2 15" L7's and build a pretty sweet ported box for them. I put them in and gave them alittle power (probably about 50%) from a power accoustik 2400D. I noticed one of them wasnt moving as much as the other, so I checked the voice coils and sure enough 1 of the coils is open...

Could be a bad ground on the 2 amps that wont power up. Or you could be drawing too much power on the remote wire...but it sounds like the hifonics is trying to power up. 2 things to try: 1. try disconnecting the remote wire from the 2 amps that do power up. If the amps in the back power up...

you'll lose 1-2 volts on the isolator. You only really need one if you want to run your system with the vehicle off for a long period of time. That way you'll only drain the batts in the trunk.

No, I removed it from the tire well. I think I should have left it in there though, it rattled quite a bit. I dont think I used enough layers of fiberglass either.

Yeah, MDF on the top would be fine. I used a pretty large piece on mine. You'll have to make sure you get a good seal between the MDF and fiberglass.

It should work, but you'll probably need to fiberglass it if you want it to sound good. I made one awhile back. I had my subs angle up alittle, but you can change it to whatever you want. I have some info here: http://www.personal.psu.edu/jrz126/fiberglass.htm