2015 accord tweeter install.Help!

its either grounding out somewhere or the impedance of the speakers/drivers you are using doesn't match with the stock head unit, need to know a lot more details of whats actually being done, how things are actually wired.

On a side note:

First and formost, whenever you are doing a system install, the head unit is always going to be the most important part, dont expect anything halfway decent out of a stock head unit. The head unit makes the biggest difference.  Afterwards if you want to add speakers, you need an amp, head unit power is useless for anything good sounding. 

Carguy24 said:

Thanks for the reply..as far as equipment goes i have the following.

1. 2 sets of rockford fosgate r1675x2 door speakers .rated at 90watts at 4ohm

2.1 set of rockford tweeter componet with crossovers rated 120watts each 4ohm

3.skar audio 750.1 amplifier running a rockford fosgate p3 12" sub..

I ties into the wiring from the front door speakers and ran my input into the crossover and the out put to the tweeters..please let me know if you need more info..thanks

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I'm pretty sure those hondas have tweeters in factory locations. However you are trying to tap into the door speakers, are you leaving the factory tweeters still hooked up? sounds like there's 3 things in the system causing low impedance which will cause the stereo to shut off output. 

I'd seriously think about upgrading the head unit or adding a dayton audio dsp with their 30 dollar bluetooth dongle plus 4 channel amp which allows you to keep the head unit stock and bypass the head unit completely from the signal path then run new speaker wire to the amp, i'll guarantee everything will sound 1000x better than trying to do anything off the stock head unit.

Welcome.  Replacing the factory head unit is a bit tedious as the Metra interface that retains the upper 8" iMid screen is $350 (and you want a steering wheel interface and dash mount as well).  The stock head unit has a pretty awful factory EQ that includes an 80Hz high pass filter and some wicked EQ that can make aftermarket speakers sound different.  Not much you can do about this except for DSP (I have a video showing how I correct it).

The factory radio will shut off if it sees a slight short.  How are you disconnecting the speakers to test?  Does it matter what speaker you disconnect?  Did you bend the mushroom shaped tabs out of the way so the basket and terminals clear them?  Those tabs stick out past the mounting adapters, and you want to bend them back after you get the adapters seated.  I mention them because they can short out against the terminals.  Pics of the speaker installs would be helpful.

How did you splice into wiring?  did you use solder and heat shrink or did you use insulating crimp connectors?  Pics of the connectors?

You can buy the tweeter sail panels from a 2015 EX-L or Touring model and then your tweeter install will look factory.  That's what I did.  Those panels are grouped with the side mirror trim on sites like hondapartsdeals.