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Tim Ivory

Factory Bose System is 300 Watts, does this limit me going larger with Sub and Amp?

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I'm concerned with power balance. I don't want the subs to over power the rest of the audio spectrum. I'm an SQ Guy. I was hoping to shoot for 2 12's at 1 ohm at least around 500-1000 RMS. Now, I have to double think this. Should I limit myself to a single sub no more than 300 watts so the ratio is a solid 50/50 between the subs and the rest of the speakers.

Other option of course to replace the 10 speaker 300 watt bose system in my infiiniti fx35 2009 model. It sounds good so it'd be a shame. 

Is there a way to maybe buy an amp for the for factory speakers to boost it to 500 or more so i can buy more powerful subs in a balanced system?

 

One other question, went to the car shop yesterday and they don't have an option to preview car systems, wtf? Does everyone go in sound unheard and drop a k hoping it sounds decent? 

Edited by Tim Ivory

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If you want balanced then you can't really go any higher/bigger with the sub(s) until you up the power to the rest of the system. Unfortunately Blose systems use cheap paper drivers that wont except much more than what they run to them from the factory. 

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I'm shooting for 60/40, max 75/25, subs on top on both ratios, so a range 450-900 RMS output, while keeping the factory.

I have my mind set on 2 12 inch subs. Does this mean I need to go DVC here, thus also allowing either 450 or 900 watt output depending non serial or parallel. This way, if 900 is too much, I have plan b, which his wire them in serial to double the impedance (half the watts). DVC means I loose efficiency, especially in a sealed sub box, since the OHMS will likely be either 2 or 4 in this case, while I was hoping for a simpler mono channel system that is efficient at 1 ohm. Is 1 ohm possible for a 2 sub system?

Edited by Tim Ivory

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Out of curiosity, can you recommend speakers and a price point for speakers equal or greater sounding that the BOSE for sound quality and clarity, not necessarily loudness.

I want to keep shi* simple and just get a sub and amp and not have to pull apart the entire car with new speakers and head unit. Just curious though.

Also, basic question. 

A good duel 12 sub sealed sub for Sound Quality recommendations, no space requirements, under 500 for sub system including box.

I listen to EDM, psy trance, has lots of fast low bass notes. I'm worried a ported box will blur this fast 16 notes into one.

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2 D4 subs, or S2’s will get you to 1 ohm. Look at the Dayton HO series subs, or Audiofrog G series. Maybe take a look at Morel Maximo passive comps for front stage. All great sounding gear that won’t wreck your wallet. If you, or a friend can build a box, you’ll save some cash as well. Doesn’t sound like you can do raw drivers to save cash, unless you go with the Dayton 408 DSP, and go active. If you plan on swinging that in the near future, hold off on front stage until you are active. Then you can save quite a bit by using raw drivers.


Traded with, bought from: Anthony O, Mitchell0715, kuda, Chevy Blazin', Babs, Captain Obvious, ciaonzo

 

'13 Camaro SS/RS

Kenwood DDX9903S - Arc PS-8

Arc Audio XDi 1200.6 - Audiofrog GB10, GB25, GB60

Helix SPXL1000 - (2) Audiofrog GB12D4 IB

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Thanks bro!

Help me out a bit.

  • What is a D4 sub?
  • What is a S2?
  • Raw drivers are upgrading the factor speakers right?
  • Is Passive using standard amps crossover frequencies and active using a dsp to alter it and or fine tune?

I want to keep the factor if possible. No DSP for now. Hopefully, I can keep this simple. If I can get duel 12 subs at 1 ohm in a closed box between 500-900 RMS, I'll be more than happy. Though it might make sense to complicate things a bit with a double coil wrap in case I need to use less than the systems max watts. There is a lot to consider. More than I anticipated. 

 

 

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D4- Dual 4 ohm voicecoils

S2- Single 2 ohm Voice coil

Raw Drivers- Would be separate midbass and tweeter. generally cheaper but would require you to run a dsp or rustle up some crossovers.

Passive is using the included crossover with a component set. Active would be using a digital adjustable crossover. Amps would be an option but ar enot the best. DSP is the best option as it also includes time allign, summing, eq for each channel, etc....

 

The Bose speakers are crap so its not hard to get an upgrade. the Morel Maximo are great and hard to beat up to the $250-$275 price range. 

 

There is a lot to consider but don't overthink it. Sub comp set done. Piece of cake. you can grow your system from there if needed. if you got 100 watts going to some front components and 500 watts to the sub stage it will be worlds different than the Bose system. 

Edited by ckeeler11

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Got it. Your post makes more sense now. Thanks. I've narrowed my choices a bit, making progress.

$250 for the Maximo is not so bad at all.Speaker upgrades might be a real possibility in this case.

I'd love an active setup with digital controls. How much would a decent dsp setup like this go for?

Edited by Tim Ivory

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The only ratio you should concern yourself with it the frequency response. Not a random front stage to substage power ratio. Besides... subs need way more power than fronts to be in balance anyway. How much power that is varies from app to app.

Get the subs that you want in there with a bass knob. You can level match with the knob when you're feeling all "essque" and turn it up when you want to wang out.

Factory Bose is actually pretty good, but you can do better when you're ready.

 


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Good advice. I'll look into that. It'd be nice if the amp can be connected to the factory headset so I could control the bass from there. Is this possible?

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The Maximos are only $150 on Crutchfield. I would suggest getting an amp.

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Nice website. Thanks. Browsed a little. I like how you can narrow the selection. Awesome.

Someone recommended some rather expensive audio frog sub. What are your guys opinion on these   GB12D4 

 

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IMO, the best subs out there to do anything and everything well, but you gotta pay to play. I’m running 2 of them trunk baffle and they have no issues playing anything from metal to jazz to edm/dubstep/ trance/ house, etc. I’m running 150w/ch to my front stage, and 1850 to the 2 subs at 1 ohm, and my system is very balanced, if I want it to be. If not, panels are flexing a bit.

Your first thoughts should be sound deadening your sorts properly, then your sub stage, then components. You’ll be surprised what sound deadening itself will do for your factory system...


Traded with, bought from: Anthony O, Mitchell0715, kuda, Chevy Blazin', Babs, Captain Obvious, ciaonzo

 

'13 Camaro SS/RS

Kenwood DDX9903S - Arc PS-8

Arc Audio XDi 1200.6 - Audiofrog GB10, GB25, GB60

Helix SPXL1000 - (2) Audiofrog GB12D4 IB

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By the way, Audiofrog just came out with a new line of comps. I think they are called the G90S or something, but they are under $300, and most likely will sound better than anything in this price point.


Traded with, bought from: Anthony O, Mitchell0715, kuda, Chevy Blazin', Babs, Captain Obvious, ciaonzo

 

'13 Camaro SS/RS

Kenwood DDX9903S - Arc PS-8

Arc Audio XDi 1200.6 - Audiofrog GB10, GB25, GB60

Helix SPXL1000 - (2) Audiofrog GB12D4 IB

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The Audio Frog stuff is legit, but if you are on a budget I would look at something like the Dayton HO good SQ oriented sub with decent output and great price.

Edited by ckeeler11

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