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i know that korean boards dont like anything below 12 volts, but you may have a demon that goes deeper than that as it sounds like youve done all your due diligence checking everything out. maybe the wire is pinched somewhere

 
i know that korean boards dont like anything below 12 volts, but you may have a demon that goes deeper than that as it sounds like youve done all your due diligence checking everything out. maybe the wire is pinched somewhere
I tested it with a sundown amp too. Same exact thing happens. I have no idea what else it can be. I checked the power wire again after you said it, can’t find anything indifferent.

 
I tested it with a sundown amp too. Same exact thing happens. I have no idea what else it can be. I checked the power wire again after you said it, can’t find anything indifferent.
well, of course you can very likely rule the amp itself out if its happening on another amp. you may have fried the wire somewhere in the middle when it melted. in your OP you said that you tested the alts voltage when bumping it, whats the voltage at the amp itself

 
I just want to state that I am aware of my Honda's ELD function. When I bought the alternator Mike Singer said that the feature will be bypassed simply by plugging it in. It has worked for almost a year, I just find it extremely coincidental that after visiting the dealer that this all happened. Is it possible that the ELD was reset after I had the 2 errors on my dash cleared ? I tried unplugging and re-plugging the alternator wires and it still happens. Maybe with a OBD reader I can get reset the car's memory with the alternator unplugged ?

 
well, of course you can very likely rule the amp itself out if its happening on another amp. you may have fried the wire somewhere in the middle when it melted. in your OP you said that you tested the alts voltage when bumping it, whats the voltage at the amp itself
I am going to check right now. Not sure if I did that yet considering I tried so many other things lol. I'll let you know in a few

 
well, of course you can very likely rule the amp itself out if its happening on another amp. you may have fried the wire somewhere in the middle when it melted. in your OP you said that you tested the alts voltage when bumping it, whats the voltage at the amp itself
Okay just checked and this is something I forgot to mention. Once the car is first started, I can play about a half a song at 35 volume before the amp cuts off. Then I shut off the car and turn back on then the amps stays on for about 10-15 seconds of some bass at the volume. The voltage is exactly the same.

 
Okay just checked and this is something I forgot to mention. Once the car is first started, I can play about a half a song at 35 volume before the amp cuts off. Then I shut off the car and turn back on then the amps stays on for about 10-15 seconds of some bass at the volume. The voltage is exactly the same.
my SQ2200.1 was doing the exact same thing before it gave up the ghost entirely. i didnt mention that initially since you said it was happening on a SA amp too. Ended up being that i cooked some internals (i think it was the gate that fried) because it got below 12v too many times and for too long

 
my SQ2200.1 was doing the exact same thing before it gave up the ghost entirely. i didnt mention that initially since you said it was happening on a SA amp too. Ended up being that i cooked some internals (i think it was the gate that fried) because it got below 12v too many times and for too long
The sundown amp is brand new. There is no way it can be faulty already, you know ? Did you see my post about the Honda's ELD function ?

 
What's the actually number? In the 13s, 12s?
I had a JVC radio that would cause my amp to go out at high volume. It didn't like low voltage. Got a new radio problem was gone.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
The lowest I seen it hit was 11.5 on a strong bass note. Otherwise its in the 12~13 area. I am really thinking the power wire might be shot. I feel like there is not enough current flowing through it

 
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