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Inverter/Generator?? Will this sustain power for stereo and Rooftop A/C?

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I have a 1998 Ford E-150 with a stock 130 Amp Alternator

-Red Top Main Starting Battery

 

-Battery isolator

2xYellow Top Optima Batteries in parrallel

 

For stereo and amps:

from battery bank to 2 farad cap

1 x 1000w pioneer amps

1 x 500w pioneer amp

 

Proposal for Rooftop A/C:

from battery bank to 2000 watt inverter

A/C Specs: 115 v, Min Circuit Ampacity: 11, Max Circuit Ampacity: 15, 60 Hertz

 

Will the setup I have with the battery bank in place work?

Will it drain the ba-jesus out of the battery bank?

Should I put in a capacitor for the A/C (to cover surges, etc)?

 

What's the difference between Power Inverter and Power Converter?

I have a Whistler P1000AC 1000 Watt Continous/2000 Watt Peak

I can get

WFCO WF-9875 75 Amp Power Converter

whats the difference and which is better?

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When you say redtop/yellowtop, I'm guessing you overspent $$ for Optima. I wouldn't have chosen said batteries due to shortage of lifespan. No reason to have caps if your running 3 batteries. I'm confused on the rooftop a/c part...your car has the option of a/c on the truck? Big 3 and 2 batteries should be fine with what you have.


97 4 dr. Tahoe

Interstate battery

Alpine 9835

Polk Audio MM6501 comps

Wolfram amps coming soon, 3000.1, 125.4

2 Sundown Audio X 15's Tuned @ 30Hz.

Knukonceptz/Royal Excelene wiring

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I have the Big 3 done and when you have friends at the autopart store $80 Optima's aren't bad ;)

The van is something I picked up from a guy that lived in NY (I'm in FL) so there's issues with the underside.

I ran into severe issues with the back A/C and have decided to up my mpg and use a rooftop A/C system a buddy had.

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Van...oh crap thought it was a truck my bad. FL is a def must for a/c....esp the high humidity there.

 

So what's the issues with the a/c that you needed 3 batteries? Sounds like something else non car audio related.


97 4 dr. Tahoe

Interstate battery

Alpine 9835

Polk Audio MM6501 comps

Wolfram amps coming soon, 3000.1, 125.4

2 Sundown Audio X 15's Tuned @ 30Hz.

Knukonceptz/Royal Excelene wiring

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No issue, just overkill prep ;)

It's a conversion van/work van.

Inside I have:

2xAlpine 6x9's

4xKicker 5 1/2's

2xKicker 12" Subs

1x1000watt amp

1x500watt amp

 

Wiring:

Big 3 with 1/0 awg

Battery Bank ran with 1/0 awg

Amps ran with 4 awg

ALL speakers 8 awg

Inverter with 4 awg

Cap with 4 awg

 

Putting in:

Inverter

Rooftop A/C (again for overkill on trips ;)

Permanent laptop (since it has it's own battery and charging system to reduce load)

30" LCD TV

PS3

 

Eventually:

H.O. 220 Amp Alternator

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Not sure about rooftop AC but it sounds the sort of thing that would consume a lot of energy. I'd be looking for a HO alternator right away and you'll just have to see how well your battery bank holds up if you're trying to run it while idling or with the van off. Be wary of those power inverters. I've seen plenty that claim some high wattages but those may just be surge ratings. I'd think a legit 2000W inverter would be near the size of a 2000W amp and about as expensive. Anyway, make sure you buy from a store with a good return policy to be safe there.

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I'm confused. 1st you say your having severe issues with back a/c. Then next reply you say no issues, just upgrading everything :confused:

 

I think your just bragging about running thick wiring to everything. (8 gauge to 5.25" speakers isn't necessary btw)


97 4 dr. Tahoe

Interstate battery

Alpine 9835

Polk Audio MM6501 comps

Wolfram amps coming soon, 3000.1, 125.4

2 Sundown Audio X 15's Tuned @ 30Hz.

Knukonceptz/Royal Excelene wiring

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No issues as in, not the topic for that =)

 

(Rear A/C can be blocked and front will work fine, not the point, looking to go with the rooftop)

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Remove the 2 farad cap and run directly to your amps/ac the 2 farad cap won't do anything, even a 500f+ bank wont do much due to the constant draw

 

is this going to be used with the van off, or on?

 

++++1 to the HO alt as being the first thing you put money into. If you can fit a GM large case, go that route.

 

Would an external generator be quiet and more worthwhile for you?

 

Try what you have, and if you need more you need more. without any issues stated it's hard to help you out as I'm not sure what you even need...the A/C will be the biggest draw by far. I don't expect your batteries to last longer than 1-3 hours if you're running everything


I AM The Future of personal transportation, NOW!!
Pretty sure everyone on this site hates you (@JohnKuthe) more then me and that's very hard to accomplish.

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I don't plan on ever running the AC with the vehicle off, honestly don't plan on ever running any if it with the van off.

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You should check with an RV dealer or forum where they deal with this kind of unit regularly for the best information.


1987 THUNDER ON WHEELS NATIONAL CHAMPION 0-100 Watt class

Avatar Tony Mannino "The Godfather" M&M Electronics with me at Finals

 

Reference amedeuce papermaker shizzon

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15 amps at 115v is going to be over 140 amps at 12v. Running 120v stuff off of a 12v source draws a massive amount of current. Id use a generator like mentioned above


Sold to

 

Bought from

NinjaBass

FasFocus00

 

"If I was so worried about resistance I'd be unplugging the factory wiring harness, and checking resistance on every wire in my vehicle."

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So ues, itll drain your batteries even while running.


Sold to

 

Bought from

NinjaBass

FasFocus00

 

"If I was so worried about resistance I'd be unplugging the factory wiring harness, and checking resistance on every wire in my vehicle."

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you would need a 2000w continuous, 3500-4000w peak inverter, to run that A/C rooftop unit correctly. It is going to pull around 1650w+ of power every time the compressor cycles.


Refs;Bought from: Boomsday, special_k_1999, BAD_MAYEM, C1500Martin, roko, Michaellane

Sold to: sam_b03, Nate121, Smaxor5, Boomsday, unrealii, paulluap,technobass,gmc123

TN State Champion MECA MOD 4 - 2017 + 2018 (158.38db at the headrest on 6500w) 

2nd place World Finals MOD 4 - 2017

3rd place World Finals MOD4 and Db4 Park N Pound - 2018

#Boominburban - Team OSC - Team FU Audio

Two JS Ult 300 amp alts - Battery delete under hood - 105ah of LTO Lithiums -

80 prs HU - PPI DSP -88R DSP - PPI E.7 EQ for fine tuning

Four PPI p600.2 on front stage - 4 CDT HD-M6's / 2 DS18 6.5 neopros / 2 Dayton Audio RS28 silk dome tweeters

Three Taramps 15k's on 6 FU Audio 1250 - 15's

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And then someone sent me this video:

 

Showing an EasyStart with a 2k inverter powering a rooftop A/C

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