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Would this design actually work?

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Cm_low

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Will it work you ask?? Of course it will work.Just about anything will work/even FREE Air, but will it work effectively and sufficiently for its purpose? More than likely not..I wouldnt build an enclosure this way.Plenty of restriction and output issues

 
Will it work you ask?? Of course it will work.Just about anything will work/even FREE Air, but will it work effectively and sufficiently for its purpose? More than likely not..I wouldnt build an enclosure this way.Plenty of restriction and output issues
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Lol yea that for the most part was what I was wondering, would it work effectively? I seriously didn't think so but wanted to throw it out there to others that had more knowledge on it. I just came across this when looking for design ideas for my enclosure build.

 
Lol yea that for the most part was what I was wondering, would it work effectively? I seriously didn't think so but wanted to throw it out there to others that had more knowledge on it. I just came across this when looking for design ideas for my enclosure build.
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If you want some basic designs to go by..these may help you/get an idea and do some research of whatever sub you are looking to buy and type of vehicle its going in to finds some great results

DIY Cut Sheets

 
If you want some basic designs to go by..these may help you/get an idea and do some research of whatever sub you are looking to buy and type of vehicle its going in to finds some great resultsDIY Cut Sheets
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I got my subs and have been researching alot, my problem I am having in my design is my width across the trunk. Actually, it is the trunk lid hinges drop low into the trunk limiting my width or height of my box. I have a 2012 cruze and 2 re audio se-x15s in a sealed box now but I wanted to go to a ported box but there isn't enough room across between the trunk hinges to fit my port to the side of my subs firing rear the same as the subs. So just trying to research what is the best options I have.

 
I can run my port across the top or bottom under or above my subs was my best option I am thinking. I could for sure run the port easily firing rear if I mounted subs firing up but I hear that is not the ideal setup for a car trunk.

 
I see phase and load issues OP.

While we are on the topic of loading, I have a question. Is there a general rule of how far a port should be from a wall? What about a subwoofer? My sub is louder the close it gets to my hatch (sub facing back). But idk about port. My port is facin an open area.

 
I see phase and load issues OP.
While we are on the topic of loading, I have a question. Is there a general rule of how far a port should be from a wall? What about a subwoofer? My sub is louder the close it gets to my hatch (sub facing back). But idk about port. My port is facin an open area.
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I don't know for sure the distance for different situations but I have heard there should be at least 6 inches clear of anything in front of the port area. Someone else will come along that knows for sure and give a better definitive answer I'm sure.

 
I got my subs and have been researching alot, my problem I am having in my design is my width across the trunk. Actually, it is the trunk lid hinges drop low into the trunk limiting my width or height of my box. I have a 2012 cruze and 2 re audio se-x15s in a sealed box now but I wanted to go to a ported box but there isn't enough room across between the trunk hinges to fit my port to the side of my subs firing rear the same as the subs. So just trying to research what is the best options I have.
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I would have went with a pair of 10s or 12s in that car.Maybe try a single 15 ported see if yo can fit that in there?May be able to get a hell of a ported enclosure in there to serve justice rather than cramming a pair in there with poor out put from a sufficated enclosure for a pair of 15s?Just my opinion of course..maybe some one will chime in that can give a better response than me

 
I would have went with a pair of 10s or 12s in that car.Maybe try a single 15 ported see if yo can fit that in there?May be able to get a hell of a ported enclosure in there to serve justice rather than cramming a pair in there with poor out put from a sufficated enclosure for a pair of 15s?Just my opinion of course..maybe some one will chime in that can give a better response than me
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I have considered that and will if need be take that route but in reality the trunk itself has more than enough room, chevy specs say 15 cuft, for 2 15's ported, it's just the trunk hinges that dip low into the cargo area that cause problems. There are plenty of creative ways around it but I am looking for the simplest enclosure design to make it work. I have a couple of ideas for designs that I just got to sketch out and double check the measurements before making any final decisions.

 
Would be better off just mounting one woofer on top of the other and switch polarity of one of them for an isobaric install. Though I don't think you can do a ported isobaric.

 
I have considered that and will if need be take that route but in reality the trunk itself has more than enough room, chevy specs say 15 cuft, for 2 15's ported, it's just the trunk hinges that dip low into the cargo area that cause problems. There are plenty of creative ways around it but I am looking for the simplest enclosure design to make it work. I have a couple of ideas for designs that I just got to sketch out and double check the measurements before making any final decisions.
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Modify the trunk hinges?

 
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