how to use amp fuses to tell actual output?

it's x10 the fuses but that is just a rough estimate. depending on brands it can be a little as half the fuses. on a reputable brand I use the x10 to get a rough idea. on a cheap brand or unknown brand I'd use x7.

Some amps are adding fake fuses to trick people now

Yea, there was a Lanzar amp I saw in a video that actually added a fake fuse. Wow..

fuses have nothing to do with output as stated

fuses have nothing to do with output as stated

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That's a dumb thing to say.

With almost any budget amp - estimating actual power at 8-10x fuse value is a much more accurate representation of power than what's found in the mfg's specs.

It at least has SOMETHING to do with output. I would argue that it ALMOST always has a LOT to do with output.

Considering there are amps out there advertising 5kw and using 80-110A worth of fuse protection - it is clearly a valuable bit of knowledge especially for a newby to recognize that amp is good for something in the 1000w rms range.

Of course there are exceptions. The dummy fuse thing is something I've suspected for a couple years now. It was good to see it pointed out in that Lanzar review.

And as always -- Lanzar Vibe, Vector, Heritage etc -- junk.

Lanzar Optidrive - still good equipment.

Easy way to get close to what any amp will really do is the price.

That's a dumb thing to say.

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negative

I've heard in order to see what an Amp can actually put out. You should look at its amp rating. How do you do that? If im looking at my amp which has two 40 amp fuses. 80x 14 volts gives me around 1200 Watts. That's way too high. So yea. I'm lost

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14 volts is a bit high, try using 13.8 and you end up with 1104 watts, now account for amplifier efficiency (class A, class B, etc.) and Voltage drop and you will have a more accurate representation of amplifier output..

It's not possible to make more than 1104 watts unless you increase source voltage or fuse rating, if the amplifier tried to make power then 1104 watts with a 13.8 volt source and 2 x 40 amp fuses what's going to happen, it'll blow the fuses because it can't draw more current than the fuses are rated for..

When calculating Power aka Wattage, Current and Voltage are inversely proportional, when voltage increases current decreases, when current increases voltage decreases..

Let's increase source voltage to 16 volts using the same 2 x 40 amp fuses, available wattage increased to 1204 watts..

Let's increase fuse rating to 2 x 50 amp fuses with the original 13.8 volt source, amplifier wattage increases to 1380..

Just remember to factor in amplifier class (efficiency rating) and voltage drop and you'll be fine..

Here is some good reading material> Voltage current resistance and electric power general basic electrical formulas mathematical calculations calculator formula for power calculating energy work equation power law watts understandimg general electrical pie chart electricity calculation

Barry from Easy Way Electronics has more info > http://www.513electronics.com/how-to-size-your-audio-system-to-your-electrical-system/

14 volts is a bit high, try using 13.8 and you end up with 1104 watts, now account for amplifier efficiency (class A, class B, etc.) and Voltage drop and you will have a more accurate representation of amplifier output..It's not possible to make more than 1104 watts unless you increase source voltage or fuse rating, if the amplifier tried to make power then 1104 watts with a 13.8 volt source and 2 x 40 amp fuses what's going to happen, it'll blow the fuses because it can't draw more current than the fuses are rated for..

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Actually, that's not true.

A fuse is meant to pass its rated current indefinitely.

110% for 4 hrs min.

135% for up to an hr.

Even at 200% it won't blow instantly.

In your example (1200w/80A), if you played full volume music pre-clipping it would run forever.

Full volume sine waves would probably blow it in a few hrs.

Clipped music would probably blow eventually...depends on the degree of clipping.

Doesn't really matter though b/c in nearly every case, if an amp is truly capable of that kind of power it will have more fuse protection.

Fuse/power appx is certainly valuable with the cheap brands, but just leave it at 8-10x. There's no point in trying to get any more precise than that. It's WAAAAAY more accurate than a lot of cheap brands specs.

With good or even decent amps it's pointless.

Actually, that's not true.A fuse is meant to pass its rated current indefinitely.

110% for 4 hrs min.

135% for up to an hr.

Even at 200% it won't blow instantly.

In your example (1200w/80A), if you played full volume music pre-clipping it would run forever.

Full volume sine waves would probably blow it in a few hrs.

Clipped music would probably blow eventually...depends on the degree of clipping.

Doesn't really matter though b/c in nearly every case, if an amp is truly capable of that kind of power it will have more fuse protection.

Fuse/power appx is certainly valuable with the cheap brands, but just leave it at 8-10x. There's no point in trying to get any more precise than that. It's WAAAAAY more accurate than a lot of cheap brands specs.

With good or even decent amps it's pointless.

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Great info, thank-you very much !

I truly enjoy being educated by someone more knowledgeable //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif