Budget Sound Deadener(2nd layer)

uhm not at real deandner to start with,hell if you wanna be that ghetto just go spray the whole car with foam.

just saying, if im applying something to my vehicle i would choose the correct item to do it with. By choosen the duct wrap i feel like it would be skimpin out on something that will prolly have less effect that real stuff. Ghetto remark is saying if your gonna be that cheap why do it at all? Not trying offend you or anything but i just dont see the value in putting somehting on my car that is enginered for something else.

Foam is NOT what you want. You want butyl rubber and foil. Latest conventional wisdom is that this is optimum for deadening car panels. There are some home depot products that are pretty much that, but they're not as thick as the stuff that's made specifically for audio so depending where you shop you'll be out the same money and more work to get the cheap stuff than to do the same with the good stuff. I haven't looked in a while, but last I looked you could get butyl rubber with no aluminum, or rubberized asphalt with aluminum. I liked the rubberized asphalt and had good luck with it in my last car. Arguments against those products are out there so research a bit before you go there. I remember back in the olden days where the premium stuff was all asphalt, so clearly it worked back then anyway.

That all being said, I've had good enough luck just poking around home improvement stores for things. I've actually found some of the flashing stuff sticks better than the premium priced stuff.

People on this forum like to act like they are all made of money and only do things 'the right way'

deadening a panel is done by adding mass, period - end of discussion.

You can glue fishing weights to it, you can tape pennies on it, you can do 100 different methods.

As for a deadening material weight is king, that stuff you linked is fairly light - that means it is not going to be a great deadener. It is designed to stop heat transfer.

So your answer is yes it would work some, not that well, and you can find other products that would do a better job.

There's a difference between "deadener" and insulation. Both have aplications in car audio, but for different reasons. The stuff you linked certainly isn't deadener and I'd not trust it to get wet.

If you're looking to save some money on your deadener, and still get a product that doesn't compromise, look into AudioTechnix's prices. With just a little more money than that roll there, You can easily get enough to make a difference on your doors and trunk, and with a product that is actually made for that application.

We don't know what "deadener" you have applied already, but if it's a CLD product like Dynamat, Damplifier, etc. don't layer another "deadener" on top of it. Constrained layer dampers are most effective with just one layer, and you don't need to cover everything. See the 25% rule. If you use CLD to add mass you're doing it wrong, because it's a very lightweight product.

What issues are you having that you think you need to add more sound control product to your vehicle?

What issues are you having that you think you need to add more sound control product to your vehicle?

Click to expand...

This is what I was most confused about.

I have about 80% coverage on front doors with Cache'. I don't have any issues other than my diesel puts out a lot of noise. I thought it might be a less expensive alternative to ccf @ $30/roll.

Click to expand...

Well it isn't CCF, so it's not an alternate to CCF. Also, CCF wouldn't cut down on your diesel noise... that's the job of MLV. Or, even more effective, a combined treatment of MLV and CCF. But what you have here is neither deadener (CLD), nor CCF. CCF stands for Closed Cell Foam, which this is clearly not.