2005 Scion tC SQ Hertz Audison Pioneer Build Log

keep_hope_alive
Premium Member

Acoustics Engineer
I figured I should share the work I do with the forum, since I'm giving everyone advice and guidance.

This is a co-workers 2005 Sction tC. He is a recording engineer/musician/and sound tech and also works as an Acoustician with me.

I convinced him to upgrade his sound system and have a rolling reference system.

I am doing this build on weekends. Every time we finish for the day, he required that there was functionality. I am leaving out a lot of intermediate steps.

Equipment list is as follows:

Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-980BT

Front Speakers: Hertz Mille MLK-165 has a ML165 6.5" + ML28 tweeter

Rear Speakers: Hertz Mille ML2500 10"

Amp: Audison LRx 5.1k

Power Wire: Streetwires 1/0 amp kit

Speaker Wire: Tsunami 12awg

Interconnects: Monster Cable 6-channel

This list of equipment is all purchased authorized from a local shop. Owner didn't want anything used. Their prices are the same as online and they warranty directly. Cost of equipment listed is about $4000.

We also picked up 200st. ft. of Raammat BXT II and 200 sq. ft. of adhesive Ensolite ($800 total). The entire vehicle will be treated.

Then we bought lots of install accessories - wire, parts, resin, fiberglass, MDF, and our total is over $7000.

On to the pictures...

Factory Door - remove panel, remove all wiring clips, remove factory speaker, and clean all metal surfaces

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Trace the factory speakers and make a new baffle out of 3/4" MDF

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Mount using the factory speaker rivet holes and a 1.5" 10-24 machine screw and bolt.

2005tC_doors002.jpg


Test fit before deadening

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You can't let MDF get wet - deaden the baffle

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Cover it 100%

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but don't cover the mounting holes! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

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you must protect the speaker from rain water. i use 3/4" closed cell foam weatherstripping along the top of the inside of the opening. gives the water a channel to follow AROUND the speaker.

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then deaden the seam between the baffle and the door and over the foam

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Hertz Mille MLK-165 pics

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so how do you seal those **** holes?!?!?

with sheets of aluminum with a layer of BXT II on each side and a layer of CCF on one side, that's how. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

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then you use a ton of self-piercing sheet metal screws

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running wire through the doors is easy. unplug the two harnesses inside the kick panel and pull the entire wire/boot assembly out.

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next i soldered on disconnects and heat shrink

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This is the gear for the vehicle, minus the 165XL box since the local shop gave us the mids out of a 165XL comp set.

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It is comical what they have in the rear of this car. Two thin pieced of sheet metal combine at this rear speaker location, the speaker is mounted to this flimsy piece of metal surrounded by open area - can you say "free air"? The seal created by the rear grill panel is very important.

notice the blue organizer drawer - i use that to keep track of screws - i don't lose screws/bolts or end up with missing or extra parts.

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this is part one of this effort, so we focused on deadening the outside skin - two layers of Raammat BXT II.

sciontC_reardoors017.jpg


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While the owner was laying the deadener, I made 3/4" MDF mounting baffles

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started by doing the wheel wells. i worked on the back seat while the owner worked on the trunk -

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more than 2 layers on the trunk where the Mille sub is going. we spent a lot of time in the rear getting deadener as far as our arms could reach up the rear pillar cavity.

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then we moved to the cabin floors

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pics of wire routing and amp rack.

all wiring in split loom then taped to car using aluminum foil tape. Streetwires 1/0 on drivers side, remote on driver's side. Four 12awg wire pairs on passenger side, 6 channel Monster Cable RCA's down passenger side (along transmission hump). In all cases, signal cables are separate and only cross at 90deg angles for any noise rejection.

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amp rack is 1/2" MDF coated in resin. Here we see the Audison LRx5.1k and the Hertz MLK-165 crossovers on the board. this will be mounted on the driver's side and allows for access to tail lights

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8-32 Hurricane nuts are used for all mounting

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added three sheets of BXT II inside the rear hatch, reaching inside the cavity was time consuming, but worth the effort. Then we stuffed a lot of "polyfill" (part cotton) inside the cavity. The result is a much more satisfying "thud" when rapping on the hatch.

trunk011.jpg


all of this

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up here

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and here

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and a few more sheets on the rear of the car - yes, i also see the spot on the driver's side hatch that could use a bit more to even out the panel, not that it would make a difference at this point, we still have two more flat boxes of BXT II left so i'll be done.

trunk015.jpg


we also stuffed the rear quarters with open cell foam and deadened over the opening. 3-4 layers of BXT II made for a nice covering. i wanted to eliminate that cavity as a source of audible resonance, which should be low enough now to not cause issues.

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then we carpeted the amp rack, cut out holes for mounting bolts, cables, and venting. the amp rack will have L-brackets on bottom (even have hurricane nuts for those) with a 3/8" threaded rod secured to the vehicle framing, through a factory trunk light opening, and through the panel.

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tip for carpeting a panel with mounting holes -you don't want carpet in the threads.

start by carpeting the outside (visible) side with room for overlap.

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drive screws through the hurricane nuts (or t-nuts) to expose them on the carpeted side (as bumps)

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now back out the screws, one at a time, and cut off the hump. now you have exposed all of the screws and you won't have issues with carpet

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amp rack placed in the car - even this won't be visible as we will build a beauty panel to hide everything once we are finished.

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prep

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wired rack with wires secured on back for strain relief

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RCA is a 6-channel Monster Cable with small head shells that fit inside the Audison. Includes as screw mounting hole as well.

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wires are secured in the order they are connected

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all speaker wires are 12 awg.

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1/0 power and ground

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with caps

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We need to make a new floor that will integrate with a beauty panel for the amp. the amp will be visible but the crossovers will not.

 
Here is an exterior shot of the car

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We terminated the new 12 awg wiring for the rear speakers, disconnected the factory wiring.

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I zip-tied the loom below the speaker to provide strain relief

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Next came the foam. we had to trim down on the foam in order to have adequate panel depth. this foam is important for several reasons - absorption and a firm surface for the deadener. Yes, we are adding deadener on top of this foam in order to provide a sealed cavity.

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cutting the deadener in preparation for placement

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sealing it up first layer

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multiple layers

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then adding Closed Cell foam (with PSA adhesive) from Raammaudio

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we have 200 SF of the foam and two boxes of BXT II left

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foam on the rear quarter

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You will want new clips for these panels.

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The white clips worked best. The black clips were for a Lexus.

Driver Side ready for the panel

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Passenger Side

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Rear panels are now installed and hopefully won't be removed until the car is scrapped and the system is stripped. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
The tweeter spheres for Hertz ML28 tweeters. Driver side is the same. DIYMA has a long thread on tweeter spheres, and they do sound amazing. diffraction is real, an so is the ensuing phase interference. the spheres eliminate most of this.

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aiming

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We have brass tubing to cover the threaded shaft that we will paint silver. we'll fill and paint the sphere. the tweeter logo will be horizontal and upright. wire is through the threaded rod and will terminate in a plug or terminal. end product should look good.

 
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keep_hope_alive

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Acoustics Engineer
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