Evo VIII install

AWD PSI
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Starting a system install on my DD Evo 8. This car is my mobile office, I do 100-200 miles a day. It is modified and sounds good on the outside, now I want to sound a little better on the inside. I am not an audiophile and my hearing isn't the best so I picked my components based on price and cohesiveness. I am sound deadening the doors in an effort to quiet the inside a little. This will be a simple install project for me and a proof of concept for some of the door deadening. I have always messed around with car audio in my other vehicles, this one I hope to do right, mostly. Feel free to offer constructive criticism and advice along the way.

Parts list:

JVC KD-AVX1 H/U

Alpine MRP-F300 amp

Alpine MRP-M350 sub amp

Polk DB 6501 components

Polk DB 651 coaxial

No sub picked out yet but I think I like this one from Kicker.

Stock tweeter. Pretty sure they were blown, I could not hear any sound from them

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Cannibalizing the stock tweeter for the mounting bracket

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Silicone holds the new tweeter on the mounting bracket. There is a groove on the back of the tweeter that fits the bracket like they were made for each other.

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All mounted back in the stock location. Pillar cover goes back on and no ones the wiser.

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The crossover gets mounted up in the kick panel. There are already some other wires in there for some other equipment in the car, the xover nestles right in.

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Final home for the xover.

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The dreaded rubber boot. No molex though.

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Outter door skin Dynamat installed. Closed cell foam sleeping bag mat installed behind the speaker. Also see new wire run waiting to be soldered.

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Adapter plate attached to speaker. Used a bead of silicone to seal the speaker to it.

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Making progress on the door. Speaker will have to come out when I finish the Dynamat and plexi treatment.

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Adding the plexi to cover the holes in the door.

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The brown charring is from using a lighter to fine tune corners.

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Used a silicone sealant to run a bead oruond the cut out.

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Gorilla Glue tape is holding the pieces in place

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There is probably some room for touch ups on the plexi cut outs but my plan is to Dynamat over them so I just took care that they wont interfere with the door clips. I used a Dremel tool with router bit to cut out the basic shapes and a belt sander to fine tune. I baked the plexi in the oven @275 for 6min. It becomes rubbery and cools quickly. I sandwiched the plexi between two cookie sheets to try and retain the heat until I got to the garage. The oven method worked well but I didn't have much time once I got to the garage. I used a lighter and more recently a pocket butane torch. The torch is great and even comes with a blower tip which is great for localizing the heat.

 
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Rubber boot serves as a pass through for the hood latch and some of the wiring harness.

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Follows harness in fender and out into engine bay.

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Figuring out length.

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Will run hidden under the door sill.

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Final placement. Zip tied to harness and fuse holder spray painted black with high temp paint. Used cable sheath to hide.

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When it gets a little dirtier it should blend right in.

 
Working out placement.

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RCA cutout already in the carpet. Hey this installing stuff is easy!

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My ocd kicked in around midnight while I was wiring....

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Looks good. Double check everything and test it.

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Worked all day today without a problem. Amp barley got warm even when cranked. Attached end caps. Used industrial strength Velco on the bottom of the amp. It pulls the carpet up. Now to read up on how to set gains and crossovers.

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I'm on hold for the moment as I won't be able to work on it until at least Monday. Left to do; finish the passenger door and duplicate on the driver side, mount sub amp same way under driver side (already have power/gnd/remote/RCA in place) and pick a sub woofer. I am also thinking about putting something behind the rear seat to help block some road noise. That **** MLV is so expensive I'm going to try some other stuff and see if it works. I've been collecting various foams through out my travels to test. Thanks for looking!

 
what's the benefit of putting plexi on the open holes in the door does that help alot with midbass.
It is said that sealing the door will help with the midbass and that covering the holes with something stiffer than the Dynamat will help get the most performance. For me it's more of an exercise in vibration and sound dampening. I'm not plugging the drain holes in the bottom of the doors so it will not be totally sealed. Along the same lines nobody seals the window so as long as it can go up and down the door is never totally sealed.

 
Good luck with the project. Post some pics on EvoM if you get a chance.
Thanks. I'm a member on EvoM but don't post much. I'm much more active on SoCalEvo, I started this build there but the audio forum is all but dead. Not many with an evo care about audio it seems. I didn't for the first 5 years.

 
I was on the fence about Dynamatting the whole door, I decided to do it just because it wouldn't hurt and I got it cheap on Amazon.com so whatever. As far as the weight goes, I'll never be a track star so who cares, I'll take a little cabin comfort for a tenth or 1/2 a mpg. I'm building my car for the street not the track. I'm going crazy on the doors but not really doing much else.

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Some more mat.

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Ready for the door panel.

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Starting to dampen the panel with left over pieces.

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