hispls
5,000+ posts
CarAudio.com Veteran
I ran a SVC 3 ohm TC4000 LMS off a 5+6 of my V1 leviathan without issue. I don't think you'd hurt the amp trying but you may see protect quite a bit which would be obnoxious.
Really too many factors to say. Ideally you could run a sweep on those subs in the box with WT3 and see how low impedence actually gets in your useable bandwidth, or if you had a tone generator and a couple DMM's you could do the same long-hand. There's decent odds the subs will stay in a safe impedence across the board, but there's no telling until you actually measure.
Really too many factors to say. Ideally you could run a sweep on those subs in the box with WT3 and see how low impedence actually gets in your useable bandwidth, or if you had a tone generator and a couple DMM's you could do the same long-hand. There's decent odds the subs will stay in a safe impedence across the board, but there's no telling until you actually measure.
I wouldn't chance going down below 4 Ohms once you bridge the channels on an amp. Couple that with the fact that you're wasting space with a large amplifier whose channels you wouldn't be using, your best bet is probably one of two things:
-Run just two of the subwoofers off of a bridge, down to a 4-Ohm load, and then put the second amp on the unused channels 3 and 4. You won't get much power to it, but it's better than nothing, or you could just leave the third subwoofer out.
-Trade out your amplifier for two smaller ones. Consider a good 2-channel for the front (or if you want more than 125Wx2 then get yourself a 4-channel and either bridge it for your components, or get one with built-in bandpass to run the correct wattage to each transducer), and then a decent Class D mono for the subwoofers that's 2-Ohm stable.
-Run just two of the subwoofers off of a bridge, down to a 4-Ohm load, and then put the second amp on the unused channels 3 and 4. You won't get much power to it, but it's better than nothing, or you could just leave the third subwoofer out.
-Trade out your amplifier for two smaller ones. Consider a good 2-channel for the front (or if you want more than 125Wx2 then get yourself a 4-channel and either bridge it for your components, or get one with built-in bandpass to run the correct wattage to each transducer), and then a decent Class D mono for the subwoofers that's 2-Ohm stable.
- Thread Starter
- #4
I have another question and didn't want to make another thread soooooooo I'll just leave it here. The amp has full auto mode so does that mean I can get by without a remote wire?
Yes, but I would run one anyway. From this review:
Stereowise Plus: Zed Audio Leviathan III 6 Channel Full Range Class D Amplifier Review
"Installation was simple, and again I loved the high quality. The right side was for all of the wiring connections, for power ground, remote turn on, and speakers. The left side was for the RCA's, and all of the controls. I liked the separation of the RCA's and the power and ground wires. It has modes of auto and manual. In auto mode the amp shuts off when no music is sensed. It factory set to auto mode, with instructions on how to switch it to manual by moving a jumper. The amp would turn off momentarily during quiet passages, and then turn back on. I would also miss the first second or so of a song. Following the instructions for taking off the Plexiglas cover and moving the jumper was very easy to do, and solved the problem."
You have to run the RCAs and power wire anyway back there. You should run the amp power wire separate from the RCAs to prevent noise issues, but the remote wire is so low power that you can run it with the RCAs if it's easier.
Stereowise Plus: Zed Audio Leviathan III 6 Channel Full Range Class D Amplifier Review
"Installation was simple, and again I loved the high quality. The right side was for all of the wiring connections, for power ground, remote turn on, and speakers. The left side was for the RCA's, and all of the controls. I liked the separation of the RCA's and the power and ground wires. It has modes of auto and manual. In auto mode the amp shuts off when no music is sensed. It factory set to auto mode, with instructions on how to switch it to manual by moving a jumper. The amp would turn off momentarily during quiet passages, and then turn back on. I would also miss the first second or so of a song. Following the instructions for taking off the Plexiglas cover and moving the jumper was very easy to do, and solved the problem."
You have to run the RCAs and power wire anyway back there. You should run the amp power wire separate from the RCAs to prevent noise issues, but the remote wire is so low power that you can run it with the RCAs if it's easier.
hispls
5,000+ posts
CarAudio.com Veteran
Talked to Stephen the other day about the low impedence issue. That amp may or may not drive that DC resistance depending on impedence of the woofers at any given frequency, but at the end of the day if you're not chasing numbers on a termlab 2dB (at most) you would gain you would never notice, particulary if you ran with 2 subs and used the extra space saved for either more box volume or larger port.
I can say from experience the difference as far as every-day music listening would be minimal loss of output (minimal as in for just music you'd never notice), definite gain in SQ and HUGE gain in efficiency.
To save repeating the long lecture I got yesterday, just read the 2012 Zed manual where he addresses the topic many times.
Cliffs: Dropping impedence by half which in a perfect world doubles power output actually QUADROUPLES the ammount of work the semiconductors have to do and the ammount of heat they will create (wasted power).
Stick with 2 subs @ 4 ohm final DC resistance
I can say from experience the difference as far as every-day music listening would be minimal loss of output (minimal as in for just music you'd never notice), definite gain in SQ and HUGE gain in efficiency.
To save repeating the long lecture I got yesterday, just read the 2012 Zed manual where he addresses the topic many times.
Cliffs: Dropping impedence by half which in a perfect world doubles power output actually QUADROUPLES the ammount of work the semiconductors have to do and the ammount of heat they will create (wasted power).
Stick with 2 subs @ 4 ohm final DC resistance
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