Wtb/wtt Amps

lslugz
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MexiCAN
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I'm looking for an amp or amps to run my Boston pro60's and an RL-i. I haven't bought the RL-i yet I'm going to buy the sub after I find the amp for it so i can pick how im going to wire it. I have a psp with custom firmware and an alpine MRP-M350 and cash if anyone wants to trade.

 
Got a cosmetically-challenged a/d/s PQ20 for $150 + shipping and an American Bass xd1800 (1800 @ 1 ohm, ~1000 @ 2 ohms) for $250 + shipping.

 
Got a cosmetically-challenged a/d/s PQ20 for $150 + shipping and an American Bass xd1800 (1800 @ 1 ohm, ~1000 @ 2 ohms) for $250 + shipping.
Do you know if that amp is stable @ 3ohm bridged and if so about how much it puts out?

 
Do you know if that amp is stable @ 3ohm bridged and if so about how much it puts out?
The a/d/s/ stable at 3 ohm bridged.... no idea. It's not listed at 2 ohm mono stable, but as long as it has decent airflow I don't see why it wouldn't be... at 3 ohms, that is, not necessarily 2. No way to tell other than to try. The older a/d/s/ amps are extremely well-built. According to Ampguts, the PQ20 puts out 150x2 @ 4 ohms, so I'd expect slightly more than that, but anyone who tells you more without actually benchtesting one would simply be guessing.

Out of curiosity, what do you plan on running at 3 ohms mono?

 
They are listed at 3 ohms, but I'd bet pretty confidently that they'll actually remain above 4 ohms most of the time. Those wouldn't cause any problems to the amp, and they're rated at 125 RMS, so it sounds like a pretty good match, to me. If they did indeed remain below 4 ohms, you might get slightly over 150 out of the amp. But the old a/d/s/ were notable for build quality and sound quality, not for being underrated. They do their rated power, and perhaps a slight bit more.

But I won't go to the extreme of so many people on this board who claim their amps are "VERY underrated", but have never benched them to back it up. Old school a/d/s/ quality speaks for itself.

I'll be very happy to keep and use this amp to run coaxials in my wife's Taurus someday if no one wants it. I'll prolly sandblast the heatsink just to clean it up a bit first, but that's it.

 
BTW, those comps look to be bi-ampable, so you could certainly go that route and you'd have roughly the same power (with this amp), and you'd have a (nominal) 3-ohm stereo setup.

 
BNIB US Amps AX TU-600 tube amp. Will make your comps sing.

190 x 2 @ 4 ohms stereo @ 12v.

300 x 2 @ 2 ohms stereo @ 12v.

Ultra low distortion with tube warmth and clarity. I love my tube amps.

Am selling one of my cars, so the system will be sold off along with it.

You'll be somewhere around 250 watts per channel RMS @ 3 ohms per side with this amp.

$300 + actual shipping if interested. Can provide pics if necessary.

 
They are listed at 3 ohms, but I'd bet pretty confidently that they'll actually remain above 4 ohms most of the time. Those wouldn't cause any problems to the amp, and they're rated at 125 RMS, so it sounds like a pretty good match, to me. If they did indeed remain below 4 ohms, you might get slightly over 150 out of the amp. But the old a/d/s/ were notable for build quality and sound quality, not for being underrated. They do their rated power, and perhaps a slight bit more.
But I won't go to the extreme of so many people on this board who claim their amps are "VERY underrated", but have never benched them to back it up. Old school a/d/s/ quality speaks for itself.

I'll be very happy to keep and use this amp to run coaxials in my wife's Taurus someday if no one wants it. I'll prolly sandblast the heatsink just to clean it up a bit first, but that's it.
My buddys ZX850.4 will disagree with that, it liked to go into protect bridged but bi-amped it was fine.

 
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lslugz

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