WTB: free-air 8" sub

I have 2 Diamond Audio CM3's. Basically brand new with boxes. Have put maybe 10 hours on them. Suspension not even broken in. The have a high Q and stiff suspension so should work well in IB.

$100 for the pair.

Let me know if you're interesed.

 
I have 2 Diamond Audio CM3's. Basically brand new with boxes. Have put maybe 10 hours on them. Suspension not even broken in. The have a high Q and stiff suspension so should work well in IB.
$100 for the pair.

Let me know if you're interesed.

Those are like 6 years old or something arent they? Well the line is?

Post pics if you have any...I'd only need one..but just post some pics/specs

 
Most of the documentation on Diamond's site says 2005 so no, they're not that old. I bought these a few months ago bnib and they have almost no time on them. My front stage just over-powered them in the small sealed box I had them in and I don't want to lose trunk space with a ported box.

sub_box0012.jpg


Can do $55 for one shipped in original box.

 
they are dual 4. Will try a take a better pic tomorrow.
Ok well I just found out that those subs might not be great in IB. Well from the reps over at Diamond they say that... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

It's either this or an AA8...

I need reviews now for IB.

 
I don't think any company's techs are going to recommend their drivers for IB for 2 reasons:

1) more difficult to tune and sound right

2) really easy to over powered and destroy the driver

If they don't make one that specifically states its for IB, thats the reply you're going to get.

Generally you want a relatively stiff suspension and a high Q. What I would suggest is just running to one voice coil and then putting a pot on the second coil to adjust the Q until you like it. The Diamond has a Q of 5.7 so you can adjust from there up to ~ 12. No need to worry about power handling because in IB, you'll hit the mechanical limits long before thermal.

 
I don't think any company's techs are going to recommend their drivers for IB for 2 reasons:
1) more difficult to tune and sound right

2) really easy to over powered and destroy the driver

If they don't make one that specifically states its for IB, thats the reply you're going to get.

Generally you want a relatively stiff suspension and a high Q. What I would suggest is just running to one voice coil and then putting a pot on the second coil to adjust the Q until you like it. The Diamond has a Q of 5.7 so you can adjust from there up to ~ 12. No need to worry about power handling because in IB, you'll hit the mechanical limits long before thermal.
Whats a "pot" I havent heard of that before, maybe in different terms but never "pot."

What kind of power should I give one? So I know what Alpine amp to look at to go along with my D310 //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/up2something.gif.dd110ecf3ae4b76050d87598f2f8de7c.gif

 
A "pot" is a potentiometer. Basically a varible resistor, same thing that a remote bass gain knob is. You change the resistance, you change the Total Q which changes the way the sub sounds.

Specs list 250 RMS.....for IB, anything from 100 - 200 should be more than enough to get it to full xmax.

 
A "pot" is a potentiometer. Basically a varible resistor, same thing that a remote bass gain knob is. You change the resistance, you change the Total Q which changes the way the sub sounds.
Specs list 250 RMS.....for IB, anything from 100 - 200 should be more than enough to get it to full xmax.
Ah. Ok. The only variable Q Ive messed with was my 12VQ with diff inserts to change Q. So you think I should run a "pot" on one VC and run the other to the amp? Where would I get a pot?

I am still interested in your sub(s) just trying to figure out whats best for my situation

 
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