WTB - .5 ohm stable Amp

Ahhhh, this makes much sense... I'll have to pull out the box tomorrow and measure the coils... Thanks for the advice...
cool, truth be told, the imp. changes with frequency, heat ... it doesn't stay the same while it is being used, but this resting resistance is the best indicator we have. I know I'm being anal again.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

 
He doesn't have to use all the potential of the amp, simply turning the gain down will assure he won't over dirve it, it is better to have have a larger amp and not use the potential (less distiortion, no clipping) then to max out an amp, maxing out the amp will definately kill the subs.
i don't need an explanation...i'm pretty well versed in in this. Everyone on here always suggests "go bigger" when in fact there is NO need to go bigger than say the Kicker 1500. It puts out more than rated, is extremely efficient, and is perfect for his needs...the 20.1 on the other hand is not that efficient, puts out massive amounts of power, will most likely eat his subs , and would most definately need electrical upgrades.....and yes i know a bit about them.

my kitchen table

DSC02247.jpg


my last setup

DSC02102.jpg


 
i don't need an explanation...i'm pretty well versed in in this. Everyone on here always suggests "go bigger" when in fact there is NO need to go bigger than say the Kicker 1500. It puts out more than rated, is extremely efficient, and is perfect for his needs...the 20.1 on the other hand is not that efficient, puts out massive amounts of power, will most likely eat his subs , and would most definately need electrical upgrades.....and yes i know a bit about them.
my kitchen table

DSC02247.jpg


my last setup

DSC02102.jpg

You still haven't explained how it would eat up the subs, yes the efficiency is a real consideration, and the current consumption is not really an issue if he only uses 1200watts of the power available, the difference between the efficiency of the kicker and the 20.1 isn't enough to make a real world issue at the 1200watt ouput range. You could have 30 of those things on your kitchen table it still wouldn't change my opinion.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
You still haven't explained how it would eat up the subs, yes the efficiency is a real consideration, and the current consumption is not really an issue if he only uses 1200watts of the power available, the difference between the efficiency of the kicker and the 20.1 isn't enough to make a real world issue at the 1200watt ouput range. You could have 30 of those things on your kitchen table it still wouldn't change my opinion.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
ever hear of the book "have spacesuit, will travel"? its like the laws of man, have watts, will try to use them" why pay for more than you need. there like $150 between a refurbed 1500 and a used 20.1. more than 300 diffence if buying new.

 
ever hear of the book "have spacesuit, will travel"? its like the laws of man, have watts, will try to use them" why pay for more than you need. there like $150 between a refurbed 1500 and a used 20.1. more than 300 diffence if buying new.

Now your getting to the truth of the problem, the amp is not at fault, the human with the screw driver is. I personally change my $hit so often that having additional power on tap is a good thing, because i never know what I am going to try next, i would be willing to bet that he has different subs with in a year. having flexability for that change would be worth the $150 in my opinion.

 
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