WTB: 0 gauge

[UnderFire 10+ year member]

Looking for a run of 0 gauge, 15ft or longer, and some pieces for the big 3. OFC only. Lmk what you've got.

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[av83 10+ year member]

Looking for a run of 0 gauge, 15ft or longer, and some pieces for the big 3. OFC only. Lmk what you've got.

Hard for anyone to beat this price. New or used. I recommend the silver. It's tinned, and will last longer.

Results for monster 1/0 - Audio Savings

 

[Dirtrider4eva 10+ year member]

I bought 30ft of that. Solid As heck wire. A little stiff in the cold though

 

[UnderFire 10+ year member]

Hard for anyone to beat this price. New or used. I recommend the silver. It's tinned, and will last longer.
Results for monster 1/0 - Audio Savings

Nice, only 2.30 shipped a foot for monster cable. I'll be picking that up, thanks for the tip man.

 

[av83 10+ year member]

Nice, only 2.30 shipped a foot for monster cable. I'll be picking that up, thanks for the tip man.

you're welcome. I bought two 25 ft rolls, and did +/- runs and my big three with it. it's quality stuff. But, just as dirtrider said, install it in a warm environment and save your self a head ache. I did it in 35 degree weather and it wasn't fun, lol. The jacket is some very durable material and gets hard in the cold.

 

[UnderFire 10+ year member]

you're welcome. I bought two 25 ft rolls, and did +/- runs and my big three with it. it's quality stuff. But, just as dirtrider said, install it in a warm environment and save your self a head ache. I did it in 35 degree weather and it wasn't fun, lol. The jacket is some very durable material and gets hard in the cold.

Haha a warm environment won't be here til may, unless I can fit my car through the front door.

 

[av83 10+ year member]

Haha a warm environment won't be here til may, unless I can fit my car through the front door.

it shouldn't be that bad on a day above forty five. And if that's still not possible, it's doable, just a pain.

 

[av83 10+ year member]

I did it in a few hours on a 35 degree night. that was for both runs and big three. Plus I soldered all my ends on. So it's far from impossible lol.

 

[Jes 42 10+ year member]

the Cadance 0 ga. is a good deal too..like 2 bucks a ft

 

[av83 10+ year member]

OP wants ofc, and cadence isn't. And for thirty cents more a foot the monster is, by far, the better choice. In every category other than flexibility, it is a far superior product.

 

[Jes 42 10+ year member]

OP wants ofc, and cadence isn't. And for thirty cents more a foot the monster is, by far, the better choice. In every category other than flexibility, it is a far superior product.

yep

 

[butterMilk 10+ year member]

Hard for anyone to beat this price. New or used. I recommend the silver. It's tinned, and will last longer.
Results for monster 1/0 - Audio Savings

Why would the silver be a better option? Tinted so it lasts longer?

 

[av83 10+ year member]

Why would the silver be a better option? Tinted so it lasts longer?

When pure copper is exposed to our atmosphere, it oxidizes. Fairly quickly, at that. Oxidation is not only ugly(the wire turns black at first, and eventually green), but also decreases the amount of current that the wire is capable of passing through it. Normal copper wire, depending on environment, will begin to oxidize in less than five years, often much less. Tinned copper will last a lot longer. The tin coating will have to fully oxidize before the copper can even begin to oxidize. Here's a copy and paste from the BCAE website:

As you have probably noticed, wire designated as OFC wire usually has a clear insulation and the wire is bright and shiny underneath the transparent insulator. Well... It is nice and shiny for a while but after a short time (actually from the time it is drawn), it starts to oxidize (unless the wire is kept in an oxygen free atmosphere). When copper oxidizes, it becomes a less effective conductor. This means that, in time, the wire's current carrying capabilities will become significantly reduced. The problem is made worse by having many very small conductors. This creates even more surface area which makes the oxidation process even more efficient. In my opinion, if you are designing a system of any type for long term use, I think the better choice is a 'tinned' copper wire (often sold as marine grade wire or boat wire). In this type of wire, the copper is plated with tin or similar conductor (maybe a lead/tin or bismuth/tin alloy) which will not oxidize as quickly and never as completely as the bare copper. As a side note, this has nothing to do with the copper being 'oxygen free'. It has everything to do with the fact that the wire is unprotected (untinned) and is finely stranded. I used OFC wire in this example because most OFC has many fine unprotected strands.

The monster wire is available in red, black(both untinned), and silver(tinned), There is blue(tinned), as well, but I haven't seen any for sale at the discounted prices. Since the tinned is the same price as the regular wire, it was a no-brainer for me. Plus, my car is silver, so that was nice. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[alec14 10+ year member]

When pure copper is exposed to our atmosphere, it oxidizes. Fairly quickly, at that. Oxidation is not only ugly(the wire turns black at first, and eventually green), but also decreases the amount of current that the wire is capable of passing through it. Normal copper wire, depending on environment, will begin to oxidize in less than five years, often much less. Tinned copper will last a lot longer. The tin coating will have to fully oxidize before the copper can even begin to oxidize. Here's a copy and paste from the BCAE website:
As you have probably noticed, wire designated as OFC wire usually has a clear insulation and the wire is bright and shiny underneath the transparent insulator. Well... It is nice and shiny for a while but after a short time (actually from the time it is drawn), it starts to oxidize (unless the wire is kept in an oxygen free atmosphere). When copper oxidizes, it becomes a less effective conductor. This means that, in time, the wire's current carrying capabilities will become significantly reduced. The problem is made worse by having many very small conductors. This creates even more surface area which makes the oxidation process even more efficient. In my opinion, if you are designing a system of any type for long term use, I think the better choice is a 'tinned' copper wire (often sold as marine grade wire or boat wire). In this type of wire, the copper is plated with tin or similar conductor (maybe a lead/tin or bismuth/tin alloy) which will not oxidize as quickly and never as completely as the bare copper. As a side note, this has nothing to do with the copper being 'oxygen free'. It has everything to do with the fact that the wire is unprotected (untinned) and is finely stranded. I used OFC wire in this example because most OFC has many fine unprotected strands.

The monster wire is available in red, black(both untinned), and silver(tinned), There is blue(tinned), as well, but I haven't seen any for sale at the discounted prices. Since the tinned is the same price as the regular wire, it was a no-brainer for me. Plus, my car is silver, so that was nice. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

how does the monster wire compare to knukonceptz wire?

 

[Team Ampere 10+ year member]

Nice write up adam. i like