Would I be pushing my luck?

tsenfw
10+ year member

CarAudio.com Elite
I want to run a simple component front stage but here's my problem.

My current setup is a mustang with a 130amp stock alternator, big 3, yellowtop under the hood. I have 1 12" mag with a directed d2400 wired with 4 gauge powering it on approx 1000watts. 4 coaxials run off stock wiring. I have dimming when I have the volume pretty high and the sub hitting pretty ridiculous. Under the volumes I normally listen there really isn't dimming.

I want to run a us amps IS2100 and PG RSD components for my front stage. If I just installed this without upgrading my alternator do you think I'd be ok or would I be pushing my luck? Would turning the gain down slightly on the sub amp help?

I know this is kind of subjective because you can't see how bad my lights are dimming but I'm interested in your initial reactions to the proposed setup on stock alternator.

Thanks

US Amps IS2100 specs

Power: 100wx2 @ 4 165wx2 @ 2 330wx1 @ 4

S/N Ratio: 103dB

THD: >.01%

Channel Separation: 52dB

Damping Factor (@14.4v): 110

Crossover: HP 65hz-4.5khz LP 40hz-460khz

Protection: Reverse Polarity, Thermal, Short Circuit

Fuse Rating: 20Ax2

 
just turn down the gain on the sub if you have too.. a 130 alt isnt that bad (wish mine was that stock) you should be ok overall.. just measure the voltage under load.. if it stays above 13 then you should be fine.. im actually surprised you have some dimming to begin with... with the big 3 and yellowtop - could always add another battery if anything too

 
I have a 130A alt in my Contour. 700w to my sub, 350 to my components. I haven't touched my stock wiring.

I can't see any dimming at all even burping it with Techmaster.

I don't think the component amp will be the straw that breaks the camel's back.

 
I ran the big 3 with 4 gauge because the runs were really really short like 12" and less. I shoulda used 0 gauge but didn't have the connectors.

Yeah, i'm surprised there's dimming with a 130amp stock alternator. Perhaps the alternator really isn't 130amp, I had a rebuilt engine thrown in a lonnnngggg time ago, maybe they threw in a crappy one. Or maybe the directed d2400 is a piece of crap and really inefficient. How do I measure voltage drop ampside?

 
The alt is probably 130A. There's a reason that some cars have larger alts, they need them to run the stock electrical components. Different cars need different amounts of current. You're talking about running 1kW on stock electrics. With 100% efficiency that amp would draw 70+ amps at full tilt. Factor in transient draw and it could be even more. The basic electrics of the car will probably pull at least 50-60A. Headlights are another 20. You've exceeded the max capacity of the alt. At normal listening levels I wouldn't worry about it and the dimming won't get appreciably worse from adding a component amp even when cranked.

 
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tsenfw

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