Worth upgrading $700 worth of electrical 3 year in advance for future 3k rms system?

moh.vze.com
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Well, I drive a 1999 Toyota Xle v6 Camry running stock electrical.

I currently have a small system - 600 watts rms total to the subs in the trunk + 200 watts rms to my front components.

I currently experience 'some' dimming.

I am thinking about upgrading my electrical; big 3, buy a new alternator if i can find one for a camry, and a new battery (either HC2400 - Kinetik or Optimal yellow top). Total price ~ 700$ or so.

Here's the thing though, I've been having trouble deciding whether to upgrade my system or not because I'm going off to university at the end of 2008 or early 2009.

I was thinking about upgrading my electrical now (about 700$) and than spend the additional 1,900 on my system either 3 years from now (expecting to get my degree after this time).

Hmm. Common sense tells me that my Battery and alternator will crap up over that amount of time anyway, so should I just do all this upgrade and buy it at once after I graduate from the university?

OR...

should I just spend 2.6 grand and upgrade my system now and enjoy it while I can?

I currently drive 7 hours a week just to get to the various community colleges that I'm attending, so I listen to a lot of music currently.

However, when I move to the University, I'm not sure if I'll have the time to use my car at all or yet bump my music.

What should I do guys?

I'm sure there are some old and wise folks on this forum who has been through this situation before.

If I were to upgrade now, i'd need to do the following:

Upgrade my electrical

Alternator ~$300? (Need to find one for my car)

Battery ~$350 (Kinetic)?

Second battery for trunk (Optima Yellow top?) - ~$270?

Big 3 ~50 wiring?

Buy the Fi 15'' BTL fully loaded - ~$480

Amp - Budget $700

Box - Plan on having Team Toxic build me one for around $250-$300

Additional 0/1 wiring - ~$100?

total thus far: ~$2550

If I decide to get an aftermarket alarm, probably another $500 to buy it and have it installed?

deadening - probably another $100 on this stuff?

Total .... ~$3100

Holy crap that will be a lot of money.

Not sure if I should get an after market alarm such as Viper or anything, but hopefully not so I can keep my budget to 2.5k total.

Anyways, my grammar is pretty crappy. I hope you well educated people can figure out what I'm trying to ask.

Thanks //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wow.gif.23d729408e9177caa2a0ed6a2ba6588e.gif

Side note: A part of me is telling me not to upgrade because I've already loss a lot of my good hearing senses due to my DLS M6SA front components + the 600 watts rms subs in the trunk. I'd be answering phone calls at work and could barely hear what they other person on the line is saying. I'm sure a lot of you bass lovers on here regret losing your good hearing... do you?

 
no sparknotes?

anyways, ide bet that you wont last three years to upgrade, so yes, do the electrical upgrade. Im in college, and i thought i would take it easy on the audio because of how busy i am, but thats totally not the case

 
ok. ive come to help u

i personally have a 1994 camry v6 xle. and i was running around 1500 watts. 1000 to sub and 500 to my comps at the time. then i jumped up to 1750 when i went active with a 100.4, 100.2 and 1000D.

i have a kinetik 1800 laying horizontal under the hood, 2400 in the back, and a iraggi 200 amp alternator. first and foremost. dont buy a iragii alternator. buy a powermaster, mean green, or HO alternator. second. when you buy your battery(s) buy them off ebay. their is a guy who sells the 2400 for 275$ new shipped to your door. 3rd. when upgrading big three. save yourself money and buy knukonceptz klm 1/0 gauge wire from http://www.knukonceptz.com it 1.85 a foot. 4th buy a box from bj fisher at fisher customs. he is the man. i love his skills and will vouch for his boxes. great prices. 5th sound deadening is crucial in camrys. apply alot on your doors, rear deck, trunk lid, and floor. youll be happy with those areas. trunk sides arnt big. and trunk floor doesnt do much. id foam the roof if u could as well. deadening wont do much but by foam sheeting.

mike

 
ok. ive come to help u
i personally have a 1994 camry v6 xle. and i was running around 1500 watts. 1000 to sub and 500 to my comps at the time. then i jumped up to 1750 when i went active with a 100.4, 100.2 and 1000D.

i have a kinetik 1800 laying horizontal under the hood, 2400 in the back, and a iraggi 200 amp alternator. first and foremost. dont buy a iragii alternator. buy a powermaster, mean green, or HO alternator. second. when you buy your battery(s) buy them off ebay. their is a guy who sells the 2400 for 275$ new shipped to your door. 3rd. when upgrading big three. save yourself money and buy knukonceptz klm 1/0 gauge wire from http://www.knukonceptz.com it 1.85 a foot. 4th buy a box from bj fisher at fisher customs. he is the man. i love his skills and will vouch for his boxes. great prices. 5th sound deadening is crucial in camrys. apply alot on your doors, rear deck, trunk lid, and floor. youll be happy with those areas. trunk sides arnt big. and trunk floor doesnt do much. id foam the roof if u could as well. deadening wont do much but by foam sheeting.

mike
why not iragii??

 
Thanks for the info mike.

Yeah, I remember how my trunk lid use to look as if it wants to pop off with only 600 watts rms.

I had to great foam that thing. Now it's pretty sturdy. As for other deadenings, I only did my rear dead with fatmat and a little here:

IMG_3567.jpg


image026-1.jpg


The bumper rattle is probably the worst right now. I haven't figured out what to do about the bumper yet. The license plate has fatmat behind it so no rattle there.

As for Iragii alts, you're the second person so far to warn me about them.

Someone suggested 'mean green" also, or a "EA"

I think it's really a coinflip when it comes to buying an alternator though //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

So hard to know who sells good stuff legit.

Hmm. As for the box, it seems like BJ fisher (hmm BJ? nah can't be what I think it stands for ~_~), anyways, he seems to be a respected guy on here and known to build good boxes. I'll probably have him build my box instead of having team toxic do it.

As for the batteries, Should I get the Kinetic 2400 for the trunk and an optimal yellow top for under the hood? How should it be done?

(assuming I go with the Fi BTL 15'' or something else that will be over 3000 rms )

Actually, I'm kind of worried going with the BTL because i'm trying to find a sub that will last me atleast 3 years without problems.

Kinda weird how BTL has no warranty.

I don't plan on using my system for competitions. But I like the bass for showing off

I also hope it sounds good or at least as good as my edesignaudio.com 13kv's. These subs are weak but they have nice sound quality.

 
to sum it up. i feel a stock battery up front paired with a kinetik 2400 will be sufficient in any case. being that you upgrade the big three.

i would if i were you look into possibly a fi q? send it 1100 - 1200 watts in that region or if u want something around the 1500 - 2000, id suggest looking into drivers along the lines of a fi bl or re sx, AA havoc or audioque hdc312

id shy away from iraggi for the following. One his alternator didnt do much of a difference. i dont feel it accurately rated, my first failed breifly after installing. but he replaced. it stays around 13.3 - 13.4 when driving above 2k rpms. and havnt had a problem since however i feel the voltage should be higher. i was running a 100.2 100.4 and sundown sae 1000D or a us amps md22 depending on the time and it didnt change much. i have big three done a kinetik 1800 and a 2400 and that was my voltage. 12.9 at lights sitting.

i feel it should be higher. i heard great things about HO Alternators, Powermaster and Mean green. you can go wrong with either.

let me know what ur goals are in a pm. ill help u shape some things together based on my experiences with camrys.

they really are easy cars to do =]

 
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