What next?

[Bossman150]

I don't even have my new sub and amps swapped in and I am already wondering what I should do next. I have a feeling I will end up adding a 2nd 10w6 once I get a custom box done, but I know I will probably need to upgrade my electrical before I can do that. I need to do some measurements and see how easy the alternator is to access in my car and order a big 3 kit from Mylows10. I also need to replace the front Kicker 6x9's with a good component set. Other things I might need to do is sound deadner, is that something I should do asap at least to the trunk where the sub is? What is the best value deadener to use?

Is there anything I am missing? What should the priority be next?

For those who have not seen my other threads, I have a 1012 maxima, HU is a Pioneer AVH4000Nex, front stage Kicker CS 6x9 3 ways, rear stage Kicker CS 6.5s, Sub will be a JL 10w6v3, Amps will be American Bass VFL 100.1 & 150.4.

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[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

I'm in the same boat.

Not even installed everything, and I'm already scheming.. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/up2something.gif.dd110ecf3ae4b76050d87598f2f8de7c.gif

Going to do a ridiculous wattage on new DD Z(s) after I sell my current one and get two more 320 amp hairpin alts

 

[Bossman150]

My amps arrived today! Man these seem like MUCH more amps then the ones I have, really not even close. I think the 150.4 alone weighs more then the STL4.500 & JX250 combined. The 100.1 is a ****** amp. I just hope it fits where I want it, can't wait to hear them Monday!

 

[nowhere 10+ year member]

You don't need an HO alt. I think those maxima's alt are pretty beefy, prob 130a. I'm running 1800w on stock alt, and I'm not afraid of taking it to 2400w, which i'll probably be doing when I go four way. Just understand that at normal listening levels, we are not even coming close to rms output. So basically the current draw isn't as bad as your thinking. Put it this way, with my car on, ac on, lights on, and vol at 80% playing a very bass heavy song, I am not getting much voltage drop and my lights don't dim. I take measurements after the music been playing for a bit. Just do the big 3 with a good big battery and call it a day, and why do you need a kit. Just look for 10 - 15 ft true 1/0 welding wire and get some lugs for it.

 

[negolien]

You're on the right track bud electrical should be you starting point it will determine what your options are. Run 0 guage power and use o gauge grounds and do your big 3 in 0 gauge all ofc. Anything under like 1200 your ok anything over I'd at least think of planning for an alt so save up or maybe take advantage of some sale.

Deadner.... It IS A MUST IMO lol. I think the Kolossus From Knukonceptz is the best deal and some pad for the bottom.

Plan on a different sub or subs think outta the box.

 

[Bossman150]

Thanks guys, I will be dropping my car off at 9 this morning. Right now the power I have run is 4ga to the distribution block and then less than 12inches of 8ga from the block to the amps. Do I need to change that to 0ga to the block and short run of 4ga to the amps for these two amps? Or can that wait until I add a second sub and start running the 100.1 @1ohm and 1500rms instead of 800@2?

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

Yes, I would recommend upgrading the wire, so it splits to 4 gauge.

 

[Bossman150]

Yes, I would recommend upgrading the wire, so it splits to 4 gauge.

I was afraid of that, there goes another $100+ into this lol.

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

I was afraid of that, there goes another $100+ into this lol.

That shouldn't cost you $100, lol

 

[Bossman150]

Since my appointment is in an hour I have to pay my shop for the run of 0ga OFC, a different distribution block and the labor to run it. It will end up costing me well over 100. I realize I could wait and buy the OFC cheaper and run it myself and save some, but I would rather have my shop do it and know everything is done right.

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

Wire is easy.. just saying

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

6x9 2-way or 3-way components - I can help you with parts to make this look stock but sound a lot better.

 

[Bossman150]

Well it ended up costing me $120 for the amp kit, went that direction because it included the fuse block and fuse I need and since I bought the kit he threw in the 0 to 4ga distribution block. They normally sell the kits for $200, they sell pretty much at retail except for their best customers, knocked $80 off for me. They are super nice kits though a bit over priced.

On a side note I had them print me off a list from this current build for insurance and he printed out my entire history by mistake. HOLY SH*T I have spent more than I thought over the years, really scary to see it in black and white....//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wow.gif.23d729408e9177caa2a0ed6a2ba6588e.gif

 

[Savackz]

I mean, if you built a kit yourself, it would have cost half of that. I like doing my stuff by myself because if something messes up, I know what I did wrong. And if it is done right, good for me.

 

[Bossman150]

I mean, if you built a kit yourself, it would have cost half of that. I like doing my stuff by myself because if something messes up, I know what I did wrong. And if it is done right, good for me.

How could I get it for half price? For $60 just the 17ft of OCF 0ga would cost only about $3.50 a foot, not sure where I could get that for that cheap. Then there is the fuse block and fuse (300a). Not trying to argue, I would just like to know.