What did I do? :|

[YoungBloodM50 10+ year member]

Don't know how it happened but repost. sry.

 

[jflick092 10+ year member]

I will second this.
Let us know your budget and we will point you in the right direction.

As far as the problem, I would check and recheck everything. Sounds to me like it's an install problem, if not the amp itself.

The amp is underpowering those subs. Just because the subs will accept more power does not mean they can ruin the amp. This is impossible to my knowledge.

ahhh, well... i was looking on ebay and they had the kenwood one for 180 when bestbuy sells it for 300... budget... like 200-300$ id rather spend closer to 200 though //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif seriously... my whole subs, box, and amp package was only like 175... on super sale.

uhh. what sort of install problem? i dont know what to check and recheck lol. all the wires are hooked up correctly. Yes the amp is underpowering them,.... if its impossible for them to ruin the amp? then how do you blow amps etc... does it have to do with the non existant tuning the amp had? lol it was on high pass filter or something the whole time, until after it went out...

 

[jflick092 10+ year member]

update, found the exact package with the same amp i have...

MTX TNP212D2 - Amplified, Loaded Subwoofer Enclosure Systems - Sonic Electronix

 

[goingdef 10+ year member]

Thats weird that it was heating up that fast it's a class D amp it should have ran cool or warm at best, what kind of wiring do you run?

 

[YoungBloodM50 10+ year member]

You blow amps by over powering them, bad ground, no fuses, etc, etc.

Go ahead and buy the kenwood.... you have been warned. They make garbage equipment other than their HU's. I have one of their HU's and am very happy with it, but that's as far as I will go with their car audio equipment. There are a lot of budget amps out there that will be way better than a kenwood amp. Especially if you buy used. I honestly think bigger companies like kenwood and Sony think that they can put out garbage car audio, spending no time or thought into the product, just because they are somewhat or very reputable in the Home theater world.

As far as the install goes... I don't know. I haven't seen it. You were asked a couple posts back if the power wire and RCA's are crossing at any point. I don't remember reading an answer to that question. The power wire can be generating noise and penetrating thought the jacket of the RCA's causing noise (since power wire and RCA's typically aren't shielded very well if at all). I would just double check every connection. Making sure that all positive's go to positive and neg's to neg's. Also ensuring no corrosion anywhere including the power wire at the battery. Maybe try changing out your rca's also.

I don't know, it's your dam car! You figure it out!

 

[YoungBloodM50 10+ year member]

You blow amps by over powering them, bad ground, no fuses, etc, etc.

Go ahead and buy the kenwood.... you have been warned. They make garbage equipment other than their HU's. I have one of their HU's and am very happy with it, but that's as far as I will go with their car audio equipment. There are a lot of budget amps out there that will be way better than a kenwood amp. Especially if you buy used. I honestly think bigger companies like kenwood and Sony think that they can put out garbage car audio, spending no time or thought into the product, just because they are somewhat or very reputable in the Home theater world.

As far as the install goes... I don't know. I haven't seen it. You were asked a couple posts back if the power wire and RCA's are crossing at any point. I don't remember reading an answer to that question. The power wire can be generating noise and penetrating thought the jacket of the RCA's causing noise (since power wire and RCA's typically aren't shielded very well if at all). I would just double check every connection. Making sure that all positive's go to positive and neg's to neg's. Also ensuring no corrosion anywhere including the power wire at the battery. Maybe try changing out your rca's also.

I don't know, it's your dam car! You figure it out!

 

[jflick092 10+ year member]

You blow amps by over powering them, bad ground, no fuses, etc, etc.
Go ahead and buy the kenwood.... you have been warned. They make garbage equipment other than their HU's. I have one of their HU's and am very happy with it, but that's as far as I will go with their car audio equipment. There are a lot of budget amps out there that will be way better than a kenwood amp. Especially if you buy used. I honestly think bigger companies like kenwood and Sony think that they can put out garbage car audio, spending no time or thought into the product, just because they are somewhat or very reputable in the Home theater world.

As far as the install goes... I don't know. I haven't seen it. You were asked a couple posts back if the power wire and RCA's are crossing at any point. I don't remember reading an answer to that question. The power wire can be generating noise and penetrating thought the jacket of the RCA's causing noise (since power wire and RCA's typically aren't shielded very well if at all). I would just double check every connection. Making sure that all positive's go to positive and neg's to neg's. Also ensuring no corrosion anywhere including the power wire at the battery. Maybe try changing out your rca's also.

I don't know, it's your dam car! You figure it out!

Calm down I didnt say I still want the kenwood lol I just asked what you think I should get? (budget amps such as....)

Sorry, i must have missed the question. Im almost positive the RCA and power were ran on the opposite sides of my car, my friend who installed them knew not to cross them and told me....

Ok, I think there was a bit of corrosion at the battery, but the amp gets power, that shouldnt stop the subs from working AT ALL right? Im not sure how bad it is/was.

I got a 4g rockford fosgate wiring kit, all the stuffs new.

haha it IS my **** car... but I dont know how to figure it out, thats why I posted on here.

What about testing the terminals with a multimeter? Except I dont have one... :/

and thats not really going to fix anything... Maybe solve a problem. Im pretty sure thats the probelm though...

 

[jflick092 10+ year member]

double but since im editing I may as well add that I dont know where you saw an question about my RCA's..... I sure havent seen one...

 

[jflick092 10+ year member]

Thats weird that it was heating up that fast it's a class D amp it should have ran cool or warm at best, what kind of wiring do you run?

Yeah... it has gotten HOT before... and what kind of wiring? like... 4g? Rockford fosgate?

 

[YoungBloodM50 10+ year member]

I would definitely clean those terminals. Yes corrosion can cause problems. I am not saying that this is your only problem, I am only saying it can cause problems.

4 ga should be good for that low amount of wattage.

Yeah, you can test with a dmm, but like you said, you don't have one. If you get your hands on one it can help solve the problem (if your problem is a powering issue) Us the divide and conquer method. Start at the point that you know there is a problem and work your way back. Look for an inconsistency somewhere. Keep in mind when the vehicle is off you should be sitting at around 12.4 volts. You will get some line loss through 4 ga, especially depending on how long the run is. There is a calculator online somewhere that will tell you how much you will lose per distance depending on the gauge of cable (i'm too lazy to find it, try google).

You might try to run down to walmart tomorrow and buy some cheap rca's and swap them real quick to see if there is any change.

P.S. get a dmm. you need one for car audio. and they are nice to have around the house.

 

[jflick092 10+ year member]

I would definitely clean those terminals. Yes corrosion can cause problems. I am not saying that this is your only problem, I am only saying it can cause problems.
4 ga should be good for that low amount of wattage.

Yeah, you can test with a dmm, but like you said, you don't have one. If you get your hands on one it can help solve the problem (if your problem is a powering issue) Us the divide and conquer method. Start at the point that you know there is a problem and work your way back. Look for an inconsistency somewhere. Keep in mind when the vehicle is off you should be sitting at around 12.4 volts. You will get some line loss through 4 ga, especially depending on how long the run is. There is a calculator online somewhere that will tell you how much you will lose per distance depending on the gauge of cable (i'm too lazy to find it, try google).

You might try to run down to walmart tomorrow and buy some cheap rca's and swap them real quick to see if there is any change.

P.S. get a dmm. you need one for car audio. and they are nice to have around the house.

ok.

I could probably use my friends RCAs who hooked my subs up.(or try and find some) He knows what hes doing more than me... He knew the corrosion wasnt good too, I think he tried cleaning it up but it didnt work to well... And he was gonna try hooking my subs up to his amp to see if the subs were the problem but theyre not.

It should be a powering issue since the amp gets power, but the subs get no power at all.

and, what kind of DMM... does it have to be a good/expensive one?

 

[YoungBloodM50 10+ year member]

That depends on how much your going to use it. Fluke makes awesome ones. That's what electricians use. I have a chincy POS that my work supplied for me. It tells me the basics, but I recommend buying something a little nicer.

Let us all know how it turns out.

 

[jflick092 10+ year member]

That depends on how much your going to use it. Fluke makes awesome ones. That's what electricians use. I have a chincy POS that my work supplied for me. It tells me the basics, but I recommend buying something a little nicer.
Let us all know how it turns out.

How about something like this?

Amazon.com: Mastech 30-Range Digital Multimeter with Temperature Measurement…

its still cheap. Flukes are also all over $100 lol

Ill post when ever I get it figured out... I think it might be easier to try and send the amp in but idk. Cause even if it is the terminals im not going to be able to fix it lol.

 

[YoungBloodM50 10+ year member]

I really don't know that brand so I won't recomend it. But it has all the features. Flukes are the one of the best. That's all I will say about that.

Sedning in your amp will probably not do you any good. try everything we all mentioned, and if still no resolve, then you can send it in.

 

[AlterEgo99 5,000+ posts]

Well, I hate to admit this but 3 years ago when I first got back into car audio, I purchased an MTX Sub/Amp combo box that was custom fit for my truck. I had the same experience bro. MTX is shit, trust me. Fucking thing would overheat and go into protect after about 30 minutes of serious bumpin'. So I pulled the thing apart and honestly, the "amp" guts and "heat sink" sat on a circuit board about 5" X 5" and was stuck to the inside of the box via double sided tape, which had given way so the board was also rattling around inside the box. What a piece of shit.

Since then, I have learned to either build my own custom box, or better yet, since I have very little time for that, have someone build one for me. Get some good subs and get a decent mono amp. The boys on this site will recommend some very good shit on both counts, depending on how loud and earth shaking you want things.

As for the MTX, throw it on eBay like I did, some stupid fuck will buy it. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif