wall socket thought

BassAddictJ
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CarAudio.com Veteran
lets just say what if.........

you had a given car's resonation frequency somewhere around 60 Hz, you had a box built tuned to around that 60Hz, the design also incorporates teh amount of power going to be used.......and then you connec this sub to a wall socket for burps...i wontder how well itd hit on the TL in this givin setup with the varibles right....im sure SOMEONE has tried measuring dB's in thier setup with wall socket burps....if not, DO IT do it

 
lets just say what if.........
you had a given car's resonation frequency somewhere around 60 Hz, you had a box built tuned to around that 60Hz, the design also incorporates teh amount of power going to be used.......and then you connec this sub to a wall socket for burps...i wontder how well itd hit on the TL in this givin setup with the varibles right....im sure SOMEONE has tried measuring dB's in thier setup with wall socket burps....if not, DO IT do it
My understanding is that you tune 10-15hz below the vehicles resonant freq so your box peaks at that note....

 
yeah, DC will kill a speaker pretty fast, that's part of why clipping is so bad. If it get's bad enough the signal appears to be a DC in terms of how the speaker reacts to it. However, to somewhat answer your question, I doubt any speaker would last long enough to really generate a high SPL. Certainly no better than what you could get with a controlled power supply.

 
My understanding is that you tune 10-15hz below the vehicles resonant freq so your box peaks at that note....
That depends on the car, sub, and enclosure used.

yeah, DC will kill a speaker pretty fast, that's part of why clipping is so bad. If it get's bad enough the signal appears to be a DC in terms of how the speaker reacts to it. However, to somewhat answer your question, I doubt any speaker would last long enough to really generate a high SPL. Certainly no better than what you could get with a controlled power supply.
Who the hell, what the ****? First off, wall sockets are AC, not DC. Second, clipping an AC wave signal has NOTHING at all to do with a DC signal... A heavily clipped AC signal is still alternating current and is NOT direct current. Clipping is bad because of the excess power that it creates, not because it looks square.

 
My understanding is that you tune 10-15hz below the vehicles resonant freq so your box peaks at that note....
ive heard this to as a rule of thumb, but it differs per install.....but as i said, WHAT IF all the varibles were right andall you needed to do was put power on the woofer....

......so im still alittle lost on the speakers reaction to AC and DC power....how would the speaker act differantly and not generate SPL if all the factors are right and all the sub needs is power to get it moving in its install? wall sockets are AC so i dunno where this DC power thing came into play...im not hooking my sub up to a battery lol....

wouldnt a 11kW burp of AC power (1ohm) get a sub moving? if it didnt i pitty the fool with that sub

 
you really shouldn't put a 1 ohm load on a power point...

actually... maybe I should wire my under $600 wall of 6.5inch woofers, up at about 24ohms, plug them into our 240volt, 50Hz mains, and see how 2400watts to a bunch of 6.5inch woofers can do... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif lol

 
you really shouldn't put a 1 ohm load on a power point...
actually... maybe I should wire my under $600 wall of 6.5inch woofers, up at about 24ohms, plug them into our 240volt, 50Hz mains, and see how 2400watts to a bunch of 6.5inch woofers can do... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif lol
thatd be fun....

id agree 1 ohm off a wall sockets not a good idea...how about 4 ohm? lol

 
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BassAddictJ

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