W7 dilemma

Don't buy a W7. Do some research on the net, get something that isn't crazy overpriced and overhyped. When the W7 came out like 6 years ago, it was a waste then and still is. I've never heard them regularly sound good, but have heard plenty sound bad. Once I heard a single 8 that sounded GREAT, but I did say once! If you like a name you can trust, and want a SQL type woofer go with the IDMAX, and save some cheddar. If you're a JL honk go with the W6V2, other than those suggestions know that it's more install (read: the box) than the woofer. My last setup meant to get loud was 2 Alpine Type R 12's (an average sub, great price) vented, killer box on 1K each, and I was pretty happy, made my boy with 3 W7 10's with a JL 500/1 on each real mad! he moved up to 1000/1 on each, and was only mad after that. His box was a JL spec box. Spec boxes are meant to make the woofer not sound bad. In other words, spec boxes are junk.
Whats a killer box?

 
A killer box is one designed to perform how you want. If you want it loud you'll want a huge peak somewhere, unlike the very linear response from a spec box. If you want it loud and accurate, you'll want no peak, but an output high between ~30hz-125hz, not the 30hz-300hz the manufacturer spec box will allow, again they only recommend those enclosure dimensions because the woofer will not sound like shit in them.

 
A killer box is one designed to perform how you want. If you want it loud you'll want a huge peak somewhere, unlike the very linear response from a spec box. If you want it loud and accurate, you'll want no peak, but an output high between ~30hz-125hz, not the 30hz-300hz the manufacturer spec box will allow, again they only recommend those enclosure dimensions because the woofer will not sound like shit in them.
I have hope that people aren't running 125hz+ on their substage

 
A killer box is one designed to perform how you want. If you want it loud you'll want a huge peak somewhere, unlike the very linear response from a spec box. If you want it loud and accurate, you'll want no peak, but an output high between ~30hz-125hz, not the 30hz-300hz the manufacturer spec box will allow, again they only recommend those enclosure dimensions because the woofer will not sound like shit in them.
WTF are you smoking. I dont know about you guys but all my boxs have a peak and none of them sound good at 300hz.

I try to peak ~28-40hz but I dont care about ANYTHING over 75-80hz.

 
WTF are you smoking. I dont know about you guys but all my boxs have a peak and none of them sound good at 300hz.

I try to peak ~28-40hz but I dont care about ANYTHING over 75-80hz.
Im pretty sure there talking about overall response.. All my crossovers are at 80 hz.. my box is tuned to 30.. I still hear 125 hz through my subs on a sweep..

 
A killer box is one designed to perform how you want. If you want it loud you'll want a huge peak somewhere, unlike the very linear response from a spec box. If you want it loud and accurate, you'll want no peak, but an output high between ~30hz-125hz, not the 30hz-300hz the manufacturer spec box will allow, again they only recommend those enclosure dimensions because the woofer will not sound like shit in them.
You sir are fairly puerile in your knowledge of CA. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
Hzsogood is correct. Dude with a stock system and 1/0 gauge to an xploder is not. But hey, it must sound cool telling people you have 1/0, almost as sweet as your 30series rubber on your 20's on an eclipse. Let me guess, stock suspension...that's a good look!

Try understanding what you read. I'm talking about frequency response. And if you knew anything about the slopes and octaves involved in sound rolling off, you would get it. You probably figure since your low pass is set @ whatever it won't play higher, even better, you're not hearing it? Keep making one note boxes, that sound awful. My subs play 125ish always, because that node coupled with the node of my mids playing 125ish makes for a seamless linear transition.

 
Try understanding what you read. I'm talking about frequency response. And if you knew anything about the slopes and octaves involved in sound rolling off, you would get it. You probably figure since your low pass is set @ whatever it won't play higher, even better, you're not hearing it? Keep making one note boxes, that sound awful. My subs play 125ish always, because that node coupled with the node of my mids playing 125ish makes for a seamless linear transition.
OH! he's talking about frequency response... (!! ITS OK PEOPLE!!! HEES TALKING ABOUT FREQUENCY RESPONSE!!!!) AND he's read the words slope and octave on his crossovers. He's an expert... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

 
Hzsogood is correct. Dude with a stock system and 1/0 gauge to an xploder is not. But hey, it must sound cool telling people you have 1/0, almost as sweet as your 30series rubber on your 20's on an eclipse. Let me guess, stock suspension...that's a good look!
And i'm running 1/0 to my xploder? I think you are mistaken. Do you even know what a big 3 is? My tires, rims, and suspension are all stock. Afro-engineering isn't always the best policy //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif and the suspension was a selling point for me because my school has so many speed-bumps. If I do desire to mess with suspension it won't be before I leave this place.

 
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