upgrading comps and would like your input.

[lubetek 10+ year member]

well after spending the day reading everything I could find It felt good to just say fug it and pick something. At that price I couldn't say no.

I still think my system will be lacking though. I'll only be running a front stage and only 100wrms x2 so unless I buy some rear speakers (which I think I'm going to skip) I might have to go Active. Well thats another matter. For now I'm just happy the search is over.

 

[OneKrazyKeebler 10+ year member]

so did you buy the es?

 

[Apoc 10+ year member]

I don't understand the whole active thing, its never come up...what exactly is it and what does it do. I'm sure there's a link to a thread somewhere, I just don't have time to search right now

 

[adam71 5,000+ posts]

I don't understand the whole active thing, its never come up...what exactly is it and what does it do. I'm sure there's a link to a thread somewhere, I just don't have time to search right now

Do a search. Here is a condensed version. The terms "active" and "passive" are referring to the crossovers for the drivers. Active means the processing is done PRE-amp and requires power. Passive means the processing is done AFTER the amp and doesn't require power.

 

[Notwerk 10+ year member]

Typically, you'd use an electronic crossover device or the on-board amplifier crossovers to split the signal to different drivers (i.e., tweeter, mid, midbass, etc.)

A passive uses a passive circuit, after the amp, to accomplish the same thing.

The advantage of going active is that electronic crossovers can be adjusted to a higher degree (crossover point, output level, and often slope). Some very elaborate passives allow for some adjustability (very, very rare), but it's very limited compared to the practically unlimited adjustability of an active crossover. Most passives only allow you to adjust the tweeter level (in very limited increments) and perhaps phase.

Disadvantage is that because you are splitting the signal pre-amp, every driver needs its own channel for amplification. So, for example, to power a set of two-way components (2 tweets, 2 mids), you would need four channels of amplification. Were you using a passive, you could use a two-channel amp with the passive crossover between the amp and the speakers.

 

[adam71 5,000+ posts]

Disadvantage is that because you are splitting the signal pre-amp, every driver needs its own channel for amplification. So, for example, to power a set of two-way components (2 tweets, 2 mids), you would need four channels of amplification. Were you using a passive, you could use a two-channel amp with the passive crossover between the amp and the speakers.

If you want to even call that a disadvantage. I personally don't think it is. Having to use a different channel of amplification for each driver gives you ultimate control of the volume levels of each driver.

Anyone that is thinking of going active is NOT a noob or concerned about trunk space or the extra money for another amp or 2.

 

[lubetek 10+ year member]

so did you buy the es?

Well check out my good fortune; So I called up Woofers etc this morning to buy those CDT ES-610's for the sale price of $299. and though the web site said they were in stock, they were not. Then the guy goes,"Hey I'll tell you what. I'll give you the ES-220's for the same price, thats $200 off the already low sale price."

So I have a set of the CDT ES-220's on the way and I also picked up a set of the CDT Audio Upstage Blending module's UP-324 1" silk dome w/ crossovers. I plan to mount these up on the dash or pillars.

I should have everything in the next couple of days. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[adam71 5,000+ posts]

Well check out my good fortune; So I called up Woofers etc this morning to buy those CDT ES-610's for the sale price of $299. and though the web site said they were in stock, they were not. Then the guy goes,"Hey I'll tell you what. I'll give you the ES-220's for the same price, thats $200 off the already low sale price."
So I have a set of the CDT ES-220's on the way and I also picked up a set of the CDT Audio Upstage Blending module's UP-324 1" silk dome w/ crossovers. I plan to mount these up on the dash or pillars.

I should have everything in the next couple of days. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Well good for you man. I'm glad you got a nice set of comps. Now the hard part, the install.

 

[lubetek 10+ year member]

ya really. I'm debating if I want to do the install or not. I just bought this vehicle and I'm not sure I want to mess with anything.

I have a ton of Dynamat extreme left over from my last install so I'll do the doors up with that for sure. I don't think I want to build pods (though maybe down the road I will) for now I'm thinking a stock look is what I want to go for. My front doors have room below for 6.5 and tweets. I'm worried about cutting into my pillars to mount the extra tweets I bought...Think I'll get a quote from a shop this time around.

 

[adam71 5,000+ posts]

ya really. I'm debating if I want to do the install or not. I just bought this vehicle and I'm not sure I want to mess with anything.
I have a ton of Dynamat extreme left over from my last install so I'll do the doors up with that for sure. I don't think I want to build pods (though maybe down the road I will) for now I'm thinking a stock look is what I want to go for. My front doors have room below for 6.5 and tweets. I'm worried about cutting into my pillars to mount the extra tweets I bought...Think I'll get a quote from a shop this time around.

First of all, what do you drive?

2nd of all, pillars can be replaced, they don't cost that much.

 

[lubetek 10+ year member]

2004 Buick Rainier CXL AWD

 

[adam71 5,000+ posts]

2004 Buick Rainier CXL AWD

Nice vehicle.

Like I said you can get replacement pillars. Also you could give these a try if want better imaging than your doors. Not to mention later on you could add a dedicated midbass to your doors.

http://www.qlogic.ws/products/q_forms_detail.jsp?classID=57&categoryID=242&groupID=8044

I know it says it only holds up to 6 1/8 " speakers but I get stuff from a q logic distributor out of South Bend and q logic now makes bigger qforms for up to 7" drivers.

 

[lubetek 10+ year member]

Nice vehicle.

Thanks man.

Hmmm you know I didn't consider those because I thought the speakers would sound better in the doors. To be fair I was only guessing they would. Having comps installed in the corners like that take away from the output of the comps at all?? if they will do just as good of a job or better i will buy them.

 

[adam71 5,000+ posts]

Thanks man.

Hmmm you know I didn't consider those because I thought the speakers would sound better in the doors. To be fair I was only guessing they would. Having comps installed in the corners like that take away from the output of the comps at all?? if they will do just as good of a job or better i will buy them.

They shouldn't take away from performance. However, I would beef them up a little with some dynamat or some spray deadening.

 

[lubetek 10+ year member]

well it seems my comps wont fit. according to Q-Logic and Car Domain they can only hold a 6 1/8" comp and the CDT's I'm buying actually have an outside diameter of 6.75" and an inside diameter of 5.87" Where is this model that holds up to 7"?? I can't seem to find it.

I'm not sure if the 6 1/8 is the very outside diameter of the q-logic kick panel or not. I'd hate for my comps to hang over the edges.