Up or back

[spokey9]

I got a grocery getter suv. And right now my box is subs/port back and it sounds really good...would subs up/port back make enough difference to justify the cost of yet another box? My last set were sealed and sounded way better facing up if that helps with the answer.

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[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

I got a grocery getter suv. And right now my box is subs/port back and it sounds really good...would subs up/port back make enough difference to justify the cost of yet another box? My last set were sealed and sounded way better facing up if that helps with the answer.

Can you flip you current box?

Personally i usually do sub and port back or sub up port back depending on needs.

Do I think it's worth rebuilding to find out? That depends $100 for you to build it sure $5-$750 for a shop no I don't.

Is the current box custom built for your sub and desired response?

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Unless someone had the exact year, make, and model vehicle who has tested can chime in you won't get an answer without testing. Likely any difference will be inaudible though unless your current orientation has some issue like the port being crowded.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I got a grocery getter suv. And right now my box is subs/port back and it sounds really good...would subs up/port back make enough difference to justify the cost of yet another box? My last set were sealed and sounded way better facing up if that helps with the answer.

I had better responses with a pair of 10s in a 99CRV with turning my enclosure that were subs rear port rear to Subs up port up and i like the way it sounded and performed much better. But.. the roof will take more of a beating if not treated. But Subs up Port rear? And building another enclosure? spending funds? I really dont think it would benefit much more for the cost

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

I doubt it would justify the cost of a new box, unless your current box has some legit problem with the layout. The dynamic between sealed and ported is quite different, too. I usually don’t fire everything up in a suv unless the box is absolutely stuffed back there. You might just flip the box up and push it all the way up against the hatch and see how that sounds, if that’s possible.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

I had better responses with a pair of 10s in a 99CRV with turning my enclosure that were subs rear port rear to Subs up port up and i like the way it sounded and performed much better. But.. the roof will take more of a beating if not treated. But Subs up Port rear? And building another enclosure? spending funds? I really dont think it would benefit much more for the cost

I’ve noticed that smaller SUV’s, like a CRV or Ford Escape, and hatch cars tend to work well with all up-firing boxes, but there’s so many factors to that. You always have to look at the entire situation with every factor considered. Cone area can play into which firing direction is best with larger SUV’s. Sometimes upfiring smaller subs in a ported box in a bigger SUV can cause a little loss in sound, from my experience, like with 2 12’s in a Tahoe or something.

 

[spokey9]

The box I got isn't custom for my subs...but it's slightly larger than my subs spec and tuned to 30hz...got it off a guy that built it for someone who never paid...the terminals are on the back so I'd have to add "feet" to stand the box up...I know it's a really vague question without an absolute answer...I got other things i can upgrade if it won't make a huge difference though...

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

The box I got isn't custom for my subs...but it's slightly larger than my subs spec and tuned to 30hz...got it off a guy that built it for someone who never paid...the terminals are on the back so I'd have to add "feet" to stand the box up...I know it's a really vague question without an absolute answer...I got other things i can upgrade if it won't make a huge difference though...

Its hard to say how much difference it would make. Without specific previous knowledge of that vehicle. If you want louder I would suggest tuning the box a touch higher 34-36hz while staying a touch on the larger side. You would lose a bit of low end extension but you also should still be able to dige dow to 30hz without much issue.

This also depends on your cabin gain and it's interaction with the enclosure design

 

[spokey9]

It's more of getting the most out of my subs than getting louder per say...I think I'll just take what I would've spent on another box and do a good set of 6.5 midbass in the kicks...I can always come back to the sub box later

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

It's more of getting the most out of my subs than getting louder per say...I think I'll just take what I would've spent on another box and do a good set of 6.5 midbass in the kicks...I can always come back to the sub box later

If you haven't done proper door treatments I would invest in door treatments alongside of good midbass. Expensive midbass without door treatments often sound quite lacking

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

Try sub up and port up first. I still wouldn't pay for a whole new box. How wide is your port?

 

[spokey9]

I believe its an aero at 6 inch...honestly I didn't measure it though...I was talking to the guy about building a box and he had that one already built...he swapped my subs over and I hooked them up before I bought it...it sounded great and I paid material cost for it...it was kind of a win win...

I've got my front doors done dampened inside the door cavity already...I'm planning taking the plastic door cover off and doing plywood instead so I can have more options on what I can mount and it'd have the upside of more solid mount...it won't be pretty but that's really not the goal anyways

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

I believe its an aero at 6 inch...honestly I didn't measure it though...I was talking to the guy about building a box and he had that one already built...he swapped my subs over and I hooked them up before I bought it...it sounded great and I paid material cost for it...it was kind of a win win...

I've got my front doors done dampened inside the door cavity already...I'm planning taking the plastic door cover off and doing plywood instead so I can have more options on what I can mount and it'd have the upside of more solid mount...it won't be pretty but that's really not the goal anyways

Can you get your port 6" away from the back and see how it sounds? I've heard that's a good distancing for a loading wall.

 

[spokey9]

I moved it back and forth from the hatch to find what sounded best before I mounted the box...it's right around 4 to 6 off the hatch...

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

I moved it back and forth from the hatch to find what sounded best before I mounted the box...it's right around 4 to 6 off the hatch...

I would try sub up and port up if your hatch has an angle towards the front. You can always try sealing it up before getting a new box.