Unhappy with "professional" install

1. Get a DMM and readjust your gains. See the gain setting tutorial for that.

2. Put down a couple layers of Second Skin Damplifier or Raamat BXT on the doors. Properly deadened doors really allows the midbass to flow.

3. Sounds like the problem with your sub is just that the timing is off... I don't know what would fix that other than a new headunit with time alignment.

 
Go back to the shop and ask them to explain WTF they thought they were doing....

And make them correct it.

Sh!t. I just paid XXX amount of money and they expect ME to fix their s!t????? F THAT!!

But then again... that's why i do it myself! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
I have a feeling that ROE has the wrong ratings for that amp.

# RMS Power @ 4 Ohms: 100W x 4 @ 14.4V

# Bridged RMS Power @ 4 Ohms: 200W x 2 @ 14.4V

That seems alot more accurate

But then again, cardomain lists

# RMS Power @ 4 Ohms: 200W x 4 @ 14.4V

# THD at 4-Ohm RMS Power: n/a

# Bridged RMS Power @ 4 Ohms: 400W x 2 @ 14.4V

I'm confused about that amp.

 
honestly I have not seen too may shops that put outchoice sounding installs...

most installers out this way are low on experience and under paid
Your so right i mean how do you get experience when you do 20+ cars a week. Shit falls through the cracks it should'nt but it does. If i truely had to guess maybe they used a line-out converter that could be defect or not grounded take it back and see what they say, also on most Locs, which im guessing they used because you have a factory radio pre-out level is very limited so the gain would need to be set to accomadate that, Good luck and i hope you get it straightend out.

 
Get rid of the line out converter and get a real hu. I went through the same thing as you. Granted something is wrong, but your system will never sound that good untill you get a nice hu, It seems like youve invested a decent amount on your system, take it all the way. If you must keep the stock hu, a jl cleensweep is supposed to be the best route to go, but for the price of one you can get a hu!

 
I have a feeling that ROE has the wrong ratings for that amp.
# RMS Power @ 4 Ohms: 100W x 4 @ 14.4V

# Bridged RMS Power @ 4 Ohms: 200W x 2 @ 14.4V

That seems alot more accurate

But then again, cardomain lists

# RMS Power @ 4 Ohms: 200W x 4 @ 14.4V

# THD at 4-Ohm RMS Power: n/a

# Bridged RMS Power @ 4 Ohms: 400W x 2 @ 14.4V

I'm confused about that amp.

The x200.4 Puts out 200 Watts to each channel at any ohm load 2-4 and bridged 4-8. So 200x2 and 400 x 1. He is correct.

 
Get rid of the line out converter and get a real hu. I went through the same thing as you. Granted something is wrong, but your system will never sound that good untill you get a nice hu, It seems like youve invested a decent amount on your system, take it all the way.



I agree with this 100%. I did not want to mention it, because it is not the answer you want to hear, but the fact is that the OEM honda headunit SUCKS.

I went through the same ordeal - First I had an LOC converter on my stock Bose stereo - Eventually I got so sick that I ripped out all the Bose, replaced with real shit, and wow what a difference.

I'd place all my bets that having a new head unit will eliminate all problems. You can then sell the stock head unit on ebay for around 200 and make some of that money back.

 
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