Ultra Lite MDF worth the trip?

me either

i just go and look what they have, and buy what is cheapest.

no need for that very expensive shit that is supposed to be void free, and no knots on the surface that have been filled with filler, who cares? unless its being stained and it has to have a flawless finish, F it, get the cheapest 3/4" birch u can get. especially if its double layered or braced, a few voids (small) here and there wont matter...

 
i know that danny's boxm is sandeply
its holding up better than i expected from what i learned here

it doesnt have a wierd sound like i read here somewhere either.
i think people make shit up, becuase the pricetag is cheap they assume its bad.

thats not true.

i like it better than MDF, ill use the cheapest birch over mdf, becuase mdf sucks.

but yea in a month or 2 if ur at HD on DM and i275, check if they have that 28 dollar 3/4" birch, its what i used on the first wall. the 2nd wall i had to use the cheapest i could find which was lowes for like 40 a sheet //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 
i saw some birch that was treated with something that made it shiny on the surface, and i stained that once...........it left such a nice shine on it.....i havent seen it since though

 
If its one car going with a TON of wood, then 30lbs a sheet adds up. I got 20 full sheets of 3/4" in my van, so thats 600lbs difference. If you're only using like 4-5 sheets for a build in a single car, just go with regular MDF.

Or just use regular MDF anyway like me if you're too cheap to buy Trupan, Birch, or Ultralite. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/mad.gif.c18f003ab0ef8a0d9c27ca78d77a6392.gif

 
i saw some birch that was treated with something that made it shiny on the surface, and i stained that once...........it left such a nice shine on it.....i havent seen it since though
the guy @ HD told me the main difference in the different kinds of birch are the cheaper ones have more voids and if you look on the surface, there is filler to fill the knots/small holes

the shit thats like 70+ a sheet has no filler and voids.

dont need voidless/filler-less wood for a speaker box

IMO

 
ill just use whatever they have now
7ply, 13ply, everything but particle board and mdf.....and that OSB garbage too

other than that its all up for grabs
i wanna try and build a box out of that 3/4" hdf

im sure double layer all around and it will be fine,

 
If its one car going with a TON of wood, then 30lbs a sheet adds up. I got 20 full sheets of 3/4" in my van, so thats 600lbs difference. If you're only using like 4-5 sheets for a build in a single car, just go with regular MDF.
Or just use regular MDF anyway like me if you're too cheap to buy Trupan, Birch, or Ultralite. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/mad.gif.c18f003ab0ef8a0d9c27ca78d77a6392.gif
well i only have 3 sheets (not complete, but i bought 3 sheets) of 3/4" but had i went with MDF, even though only 3 sheets, thats alot of un needed weight for my car, when i spent a little more money (double actually of mdf) and saved at least 50% weight or more. my box is only about 140lbs without the subs

edit, i dont even like ultra light or trupan. any box i build for anyone i try to convince them to get birch. if not, oh well, i still get monies from the box build.

 
that was a couple years back, i cant remember what ply it was.
Picture258.jpg


im guessing its 13 ply

was still heavy

Picture046.jpg


Picture060.jpg


 
i wanna try and build a box out of that 3/4" hdf
im sure double layer all around and it will be fine,
the box i did for my tahoe was double layer 3/4 mdf

including the bottom

used almost 5 sheets so it was FVCKIN HEAVY

no bracing

didnt flex one bit

 
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