uggg ,Time alignment

[shredder1 10+ year member]

SQ is a rabbit hole and time alignment usually only works for the substage if polarity didn't fix it in my experience. Long narrow cabins can be especially weak when using factory locations or even on axis installation when separating drivers due to installation concerns.
Using top tier gear only counts if the install is on point, no amount of T/A will compensate for a fundamentally off axis or poorly located install.

Just my .02

 

[my2006c6 10+ year member]

You can do this with balance fader
Your manual says it's under
"Quick sound setup"
Look for balance

Just shift the sound to the right side a bit once it's time aligned
This will inherently lower the volume on the left side
Just by ear till it sound pleasing to you

Because if it's aligned correctly but you left and right levels aren't adjusted accordingly it may still sound like it's coming from the left and you will be chasing your tail thinking it's the alignment in a lot of cases

Actually i got to do the opposite as i mostly here the right side. And also my 65 year old Left ear is a little weaker than the right. And getting a half way decent sounding system in a 2005 Vette is a challenge in it self.

 

[Jimi77 Premium Member]

SQ is a rabbit hole and time alignment usually only works for the substage if polarity didn't fix it in my experience. Long narrow cabins can be especially weak when using factory locations or even on axis installation when separating drivers due to installation concerns.
Using top tier gear only counts if the install is on point, no amount of T/A will compensate for a fundamentally off axis or poorly located install.

Just my .02

Agreed. We had good sounding cars before TA using location, aiming and polarity. TA is not miracle cure if location & aiming aren't on point.

 

[supernov4]

Correct
Time correction is the icing on the cake
But you kinda need the cake first

 

[supernov4]

Actually i got to do the opposite as i mostly here the right side. And also my 65 year old Left ear is a little weaker than the right. And getting a half way decent sounding system in a 2005 Vette is a challenge in it self.

Are you adding delay just to the left side?
Or both sides?

 

[my2006c6 10+ year member]

Are you adding delay just to the left side?
Or both sides?

Just the left. Right side is set to 0

 

[supernov4]

Just the left. Right side is set to 0

You will need to do both because of the subwoofer

If it makes it easier for you
You can give me all measurements
From centre of headrest where your head is to
Subwoofer cone
Left speaker cone and right speaker cone

I will plug those numbers into my helix and give you the values needed in milliseconds

 

[my2006c6 10+ year member]

You will need to do both because of the subwoofer

If it makes it easier for you
You can give me all measurements
From centre of headrest where your head is to
Subwoofer cone
Left speaker cone and right speaker cone

I will plug those numbers into my helix and give you the values needed in milliseconds

Oh and im running Passive.. Ill go out and check my measurements again

 

[supernov4]

Oh and im running Passive.. Ill go out and check my measurements again

I know it's not really ideal
But we try since your tweeter is close to midbass might still be palletable

Then get measurement for each speaker

I will give you 2 sets of options
Timed to the midbass
And timed to the tweets

 

[my2006c6 10+ year member]

I know it's not really ideal
But we try since your tweeter is close to midbass might still be palletable

Then get measurement for each speaker

I will give you 2 sets of options
Timed to the midbass
And timed to the tweets

ok, i did measurement best i could. And i measured from center of cone including depth of grill to cone and measured to the tip of my nose while sitting in car.
So the L Mid is 35 inches ,, The right mid is 52 inches. AND when i measured the sub i measured a straight line forward , and it is 41 inches to be even to my ear.
Also if needed my distance from mid to tweeter in door is 9 inches. I forgot to measure tweeter distance to my sitting position.
My Alpine deck always set the furthest speaker to 0, and a online calculator i found does the same. http://tracerite.com/calc.html

 

[supernov4]

ok, i did measurement best i could. And i measured from center of cone including depth of grill to cone and measured to the tip of my nose while sitting in car.
So the L Mid is 35 inches ,, The right mid is 52 inches. AND when i measured the sub i measured a straight line forward , and it is 41 inches to be even to my ear.
Also if needed my distance from mid to tweeter in door is 9 inches. I forgot to measure tweeter distance to my sitting position.
My Alpine deck always set the furthest speaker to 0, and a online calculator i found does the same. http://tracerite.com/calc.html

OK for subwoofer enter 0.82 ms
Left mid enter 1.27 ms
Right mid 0 ms

Then from there adjust your left right balance

 

[shredder1 10+ year member]

ok, i did measurement best i could. And i measured from center of cone including depth of grill to cone and measured to the tip of my nose while sitting in car.
So the L Mid is 35 inches ,, The right mid is 52 inches. AND when i measured the sub i measured a straight line forward , and it is 41 inches to be even to my ear.
Also if needed my distance from mid to tweeter in door is 9 inches. I forgot to measure tweeter distance to my sitting position.
My Alpine deck always set the furthest speaker to 0, and a online calculator i found does the same. http://tracerite.com/calc.html

I'd measure to the dashboard edge in front of the driver 3"-6" off center towards the center in front of the driver myself. All the times I've seen to the ear measurements applied it just separates the midbass from the sub resulting in localization problems. Time everything to a soundstage in front of the user not at the headrest. Maybe a foot in front of the forehead or a little more. You're actually seeking a seamless response where the bass cannot be localized. Its harder than it sounds actually... location, on-axis and crossover points usually find that point.

The edge of the dashboard, don't bury it around the defrost vents unless your running a crazy waveguide setup and at that point you should have the bases covered.

The soundstage is exactly that, not in your brain matter... lol.