Two 10's vs. one 12's which one?

[sub-burb]

Looking for some ideas for a subwoofer for my suburban. The one I had was jacked last week and now I’m looking for a replacement. I have read and searched through many many post and have not found the answers I’m looking for. Please forgive me if this question sounds old but in my area I don’t have a local shop to visit and ask questions. The ones we did have been replaced by big chain stores and less than knowable sales staff.

On with the question, I have a 91 suburban and would like to place the sub in the center console (where I had the last one, 10” JL audio band pass). I was thinking of two 10’s or a single 12, I have about 2.0 cubic feet to play with and would prefer a sealed enclosure but open to maybe a ported one. I currently have a linear power 2202 to drive the subs with. My music tastes very from country to hip-hop but mostly rock. I would like for a clean tight sounding sub with some bottom end when needed. The current subs I have looked at are the cvr’s, cvx’s, type r’s and different jl subs. To be honest it has been awhile since I’ve had looked at car audio products and have become overwhelmed with all the different products out on the market.

I would like some ideas on which way to go two 10’s vs. the one 12 and which enclosure to place the sub in based on the parameters mentioned earlier. Also preferably firing in the downward position. I know this request will get hit hard but any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

TS

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[SUB_URBAN 10+ year member]

Type R in 2.0 c ft sealed at 34 hz plays nicely on rock, but it won't get that low. You have a sub in the center console thats pretty badass i wouldn't mind seeing a pic or two of that. Cvx's are susposed to be really nice. also look into Soundsplinter RL-p's. Oh and what are the specs of that amp it will make it easier for people to match subs.

 

[SUB_URBAN 10+ year member]

oh if you do get a type R you will definately need to be ported.

 

[sub-burb]

This is an old school amp that is like brand new. Here are the specs according to the web site.

RMS power@ 4ohms stereo (12.5v)- 110w x 2

Mono rating @ 4 ohms- 250w

peak power- 500w

These amps are generally way under rated in the power dept. and can handle a 2 ohm load for what I can recall.

I can build the box my self but if the ported design is what’s suggested I will most likely need some help. Here are some measurements that I need to keep.

13w x 14h x 26d I can probably fudge the height and depth a little if I need to. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.

later

TS

 

[DeuceLee 10+ year member]

2 10's vs 1 12?

i'd 100% pick the 2 10's...IF YOU GOT THE MONEY!!

only problem is that MOST of the time, the 10's are almost the same price as the 12's so you end up paying almost 2x the price for the two 10's...

thats just the way things go in car audio...

2 10's:

Cons: almost 2x price

Pros: More output (granted you got the extra power to push the extra sub), use almost the same amout of room as a single 12...

1 12:

Cons: Not as much output as the 2 10's, uses almost as much room as 2 10's

Pros: Output is definitely better then a single 10 (in most cases), wayyy cheaper then 2 10's

 

[denim 5,000+ posts]

find a single 12 that has decent specs for the price and has a good company behind it,

 

build a box according to recomendations,

 

try it out and go from there, if you like the sound and want more output save for a second one

 

[.::DuD3::. 10+ year member]

just remember, the box is going to make or break the install //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

 

[sub-burb]

Money is not the problem; the problem is which box and subs to get for the amount of space I have to deal with.

Thanks

TS