Jdubs04ss 10+ year member
Member
Users involved: Turbobluemiata and Jdubs04ss
Buyer:Jdubs04ss
Seller:Turbobluemiata
Link to original FS thread and/or trade agreement thread:
http://www.caraudioclassifieds.org/f...ad.php?t=66538
Original deal details: $250 shipping included, Sent $50 and he said he would hold the amp however long I needed to get the rest which was 3 days I believe
Description of how the deal went bad: When he sent me the amp I tried hooking it up and it blew all the fuses every single time the remote power was applied. I spent 3 weeks changing everything out including ground wires,power wire,remote,rca's and regrounded my amp 4 times with 3 different wires and grounded my battery. I can finally say I've tried everything and gone through $45 in fuses blowing them every time. The protection light comes on when the RCA's and speaker wire were not connected. i did some research and found out its most likely a shorted output transistor. I've been emailing him now for almost a week on CACO and CA.com and haven't gotten reply and its obvious he's ignoring me.
Screen shots supporting your claims: I don't have a screen shot because he hasn't responded. Here's the email I sent him which includes everything I tried/did which technically fits in addt'l info.
Additional info:
Hey whats going on man?
I've been meaning to message you and talk to you about the Sundown SAZ-1500d amp you sold me. We talked for a decent amount of time before I actually bought the amp and paid for it so I felt like we got to know eachother a little bit so it didn't seem like a transaction from stranger to stranger. I wanted to give you the benefit of the doubt when it came to this amp so instead of just messaging you right off the back accusing you of selling me a bad amp, I wanted to make sure I tried everything possible I could and I talked to as many people as I could and got everything together before I messaged you. I talked to a total of probably 10 people which everyone pretty much said the same thing. "If it keeps blowing fuses everytime you turn the remote wire on, It can be any one of the following;
1.Bad ground on the amp
Anwser- I regrounded my amp in 3 different spots, possibly thought it could of been the wire so I bought a 1/0awg wire, grounded that in all the same locations, then bought a dual wire grounding kit and grounded a 1/0 wire and 2awg wire in 2 new locations, drilled by me and then spent 5 minutes sanding so it was bare metal. The fuses still blew
2.Bad ground for the battery
Anwser- I regounded the battery literally, no BS, in 4 different spots, It looks like a spider is sitting on top of my battery so its grounded as much as it possibly can, its a yellow top so it has side and top posts to allow me to ground it in more locations
3.The main fuse is too small
Anwser- I run a 2awg wire which @ 15' is good up to 225 amps and the main ANL fuse I run is 200 amps. The amp take a maximum of 4 40amp fuses which is only 160 amps
4.The wire cant handle the current
Anwser-2awg wire is what is suggested to be used for any loads under 225 amps when the length is less than 20', I grounded a bigger wire so there should be no problem of the current flowing then being grounded
5.Check the RCA's
Anwser- The amp still pops fuses with the RCA's connected or disconnected. I havent been able to get my hands on a multi-meter but I know as soon as I do, It will most likely read 10v or more because more than likely, the transformer is shorted.
6.Wired underneath 1ohm improperley
Anwser- I have 2 dual 4ohm subs wired in parallel so each sub is wired to 2 ohm and together only run a 1ohm load on the amp, theres no possible way to run it any less than that. Even if I had 2 dual 2ohms I've been told these amps can handle .5ohm all day anyways
7.Electrical isn't supplying enough voltage
Anwser-I have a yellow top, +0.6 volt booster, alternator 4awg wire to power supply, battery grounded in 4 locations, big 3 upgrade,220 amp alternator, 10% alternator overdrive pulley, 5 farad cap. Even when my old amp was pushin 1200watts and pulling 120amps, the system never dropped below 13.9 volts and over 1200rpm, stayed steady between 14.5-14.9 volts. So trust me, the last problem I have is a shortage of power
8.Either one of the speakers might be blown
Anwser-The speakers are just fine, ran fine before this amp, handle more RMS than this amp can provide and when I decided I needed some bump, I connected my back up Rockford 500.2 amp and not only were both speakers working completly fine, but the amp worked with the same set up that the Sundown wouldnt work with
9.The gain is turned up too high
Anwser- This was the 1st thing I checked..trust me I wouldn't be stupid enough to not check this..I even turned the gain and bass boost all the way down
10.Check remote wire/remote switch
Anwser-I thought maybe the 18awg wasnt good enough or the switch was wired incorrectly, even know I know it worked because it did on my last amp, I ditched the switch and even wired up a 14awg monster wire for grins and giggles and nope, still blows fuses
11.Check Amp fuses, try Lower & Higher fuses
Anwser- I tried 4 40amp fuses, 4 30amp fuses, 3 30amp fuses, absoutley everything and after pulling the blown ones, when I go to replace the new ones, the first fuse that I always insert, no matter which spot I stick it in, it still gives me a lil feedback and sparks a lil.
Well to prove that I'm not making this up and that over the past 3 weeks I've done nothing but f*ck with this amp everynight for an hour after work, spend a ridiclious amount of time researching different things to try and what could possibly be the problem. I wrote every anwser under the number in red. You can clearly see that I have tried everything and the only plausable reason for the amp not working is that it wasnt in working condition when it was shipped. I wrote everything out like this all neat incase I need to open up a case. I don't want to do this because you seemed like a legit guy and maybe just possibly there might be a chance that you knew it didn't work. I have every email and all the stuff I've done over the weeks I've had the amp and from the day I got amp, there was nothing but other emails exchanged between you and I plus other people trying to troubleshoot so it's extremley apparent that I never got this amp to turn on. The only reason why I tried all this is because I saw the blue light come on for 2 seconds but then every light in my car dims really low and then the fuse pops, I've seen the protection light come on a few times when the RCA's are NOT connected. I did some research online and because of this one article, is the reason why I want to call you out on this to tell me what you knew about this amp.
IT IS TITLED "SHORTED OUTPUT TRANSISTORS"
If the amp goes into protect with no RCA or speakers cables connected to it or if the amplifier blows the fuse AFTER remote voltage is applied, the amplifier likely has shorted out transistors. In that case, THE AMPLIFIER WILL NEED TO BE REPAIRED
It sounds like I wrote that because of how spot-on it is about my sitiuation. I wish I saw this before I went through all this wasted time and money trying to get it working. The blue light comes on for a second then the fuses blow. The only time I saw the red protect light was when I just happened to have the RCA's and speaker wires disconnected at the same time. I didn't even do it on purpose, It was just another combination I tried to get the amp working. Since the red protect came on for both those being disconnected. The Shorted Output Transistor can be the only reason for why I've gone through all this **** to get the amp to work.
Here are the options I thought of that I thought would be fair and fix this problem once and for all.
Since the last time we talked, you swore that the amp was in working condition, I don't know if since I did all this **** you're going to change your stand on whether you knew the amp was working on not. I'm not asking you to admit any guilt or anything I just think this needs to be fixed.
Either 1. Since you sware the amp works, you shouldn't have a problem wanting to refund my $250 back to me. I'll even pay for the insured shipping back to you. If the amp really doesn't have a problem, you shouldn't have a problem selling this because $250 is still cheaper than anyone else. I've gotten alot of offers + cash for new amps + money for this one but I decided I couldn't sell an amp not knowing 100% if somethings wrong with it.
2. I can take the amp to a repair shop so this way if you don't believe me, I can have a professional look at it and tell you the same dianosis I told you but since he's professional, you know he wouldn't be lying.
3. I can take it to a repair shop because it obviously needs to be repaired and I can get a quote to see how much it will be to get fixed. As long as your willing to pay the money to have it repaired. I will cover the shipping costs to try and not cost you as much
Bottom line, I think its only fair if you take the amp back, since it's working and all and anyone would kill for such a nice clean looking "working" saz-1500. Please refund me my $250 back and I'll pay for shipping, OR I can take it to a repair shop to dianose it and tell you that it has shorted output transistors and then we can figure our decision. Or just have it repaired because you know its broke anyways and you can pay for repair costs.
I didnt want it to come to this but I know you sold me a bad amp and I don't wanna have to open a case to resolve this. Please get back to me so we can talk like men and work this out
Thanks
James
Buyer:Jdubs04ss
Seller:Turbobluemiata
Link to original FS thread and/or trade agreement thread:
http://www.caraudioclassifieds.org/f...ad.php?t=66538
Original deal details: $250 shipping included, Sent $50 and he said he would hold the amp however long I needed to get the rest which was 3 days I believe
Description of how the deal went bad: When he sent me the amp I tried hooking it up and it blew all the fuses every single time the remote power was applied. I spent 3 weeks changing everything out including ground wires,power wire,remote,rca's and regrounded my amp 4 times with 3 different wires and grounded my battery. I can finally say I've tried everything and gone through $45 in fuses blowing them every time. The protection light comes on when the RCA's and speaker wire were not connected. i did some research and found out its most likely a shorted output transistor. I've been emailing him now for almost a week on CACO and CA.com and haven't gotten reply and its obvious he's ignoring me.
Screen shots supporting your claims: I don't have a screen shot because he hasn't responded. Here's the email I sent him which includes everything I tried/did which technically fits in addt'l info.
Additional info:
Hey whats going on man?
I've been meaning to message you and talk to you about the Sundown SAZ-1500d amp you sold me. We talked for a decent amount of time before I actually bought the amp and paid for it so I felt like we got to know eachother a little bit so it didn't seem like a transaction from stranger to stranger. I wanted to give you the benefit of the doubt when it came to this amp so instead of just messaging you right off the back accusing you of selling me a bad amp, I wanted to make sure I tried everything possible I could and I talked to as many people as I could and got everything together before I messaged you. I talked to a total of probably 10 people which everyone pretty much said the same thing. "If it keeps blowing fuses everytime you turn the remote wire on, It can be any one of the following;
1.Bad ground on the amp
Anwser- I regrounded my amp in 3 different spots, possibly thought it could of been the wire so I bought a 1/0awg wire, grounded that in all the same locations, then bought a dual wire grounding kit and grounded a 1/0 wire and 2awg wire in 2 new locations, drilled by me and then spent 5 minutes sanding so it was bare metal. The fuses still blew
2.Bad ground for the battery
Anwser- I regounded the battery literally, no BS, in 4 different spots, It looks like a spider is sitting on top of my battery so its grounded as much as it possibly can, its a yellow top so it has side and top posts to allow me to ground it in more locations
3.The main fuse is too small
Anwser- I run a 2awg wire which @ 15' is good up to 225 amps and the main ANL fuse I run is 200 amps. The amp take a maximum of 4 40amp fuses which is only 160 amps
4.The wire cant handle the current
Anwser-2awg wire is what is suggested to be used for any loads under 225 amps when the length is less than 20', I grounded a bigger wire so there should be no problem of the current flowing then being grounded
5.Check the RCA's
Anwser- The amp still pops fuses with the RCA's connected or disconnected. I havent been able to get my hands on a multi-meter but I know as soon as I do, It will most likely read 10v or more because more than likely, the transformer is shorted.
6.Wired underneath 1ohm improperley
Anwser- I have 2 dual 4ohm subs wired in parallel so each sub is wired to 2 ohm and together only run a 1ohm load on the amp, theres no possible way to run it any less than that. Even if I had 2 dual 2ohms I've been told these amps can handle .5ohm all day anyways
7.Electrical isn't supplying enough voltage
Anwser-I have a yellow top, +0.6 volt booster, alternator 4awg wire to power supply, battery grounded in 4 locations, big 3 upgrade,220 amp alternator, 10% alternator overdrive pulley, 5 farad cap. Even when my old amp was pushin 1200watts and pulling 120amps, the system never dropped below 13.9 volts and over 1200rpm, stayed steady between 14.5-14.9 volts. So trust me, the last problem I have is a shortage of power
8.Either one of the speakers might be blown
Anwser-The speakers are just fine, ran fine before this amp, handle more RMS than this amp can provide and when I decided I needed some bump, I connected my back up Rockford 500.2 amp and not only were both speakers working completly fine, but the amp worked with the same set up that the Sundown wouldnt work with
9.The gain is turned up too high
Anwser- This was the 1st thing I checked..trust me I wouldn't be stupid enough to not check this..I even turned the gain and bass boost all the way down
10.Check remote wire/remote switch
Anwser-I thought maybe the 18awg wasnt good enough or the switch was wired incorrectly, even know I know it worked because it did on my last amp, I ditched the switch and even wired up a 14awg monster wire for grins and giggles and nope, still blows fuses
11.Check Amp fuses, try Lower & Higher fuses
Anwser- I tried 4 40amp fuses, 4 30amp fuses, 3 30amp fuses, absoutley everything and after pulling the blown ones, when I go to replace the new ones, the first fuse that I always insert, no matter which spot I stick it in, it still gives me a lil feedback and sparks a lil.
Well to prove that I'm not making this up and that over the past 3 weeks I've done nothing but f*ck with this amp everynight for an hour after work, spend a ridiclious amount of time researching different things to try and what could possibly be the problem. I wrote every anwser under the number in red. You can clearly see that I have tried everything and the only plausable reason for the amp not working is that it wasnt in working condition when it was shipped. I wrote everything out like this all neat incase I need to open up a case. I don't want to do this because you seemed like a legit guy and maybe just possibly there might be a chance that you knew it didn't work. I have every email and all the stuff I've done over the weeks I've had the amp and from the day I got amp, there was nothing but other emails exchanged between you and I plus other people trying to troubleshoot so it's extremley apparent that I never got this amp to turn on. The only reason why I tried all this is because I saw the blue light come on for 2 seconds but then every light in my car dims really low and then the fuse pops, I've seen the protection light come on a few times when the RCA's are NOT connected. I did some research online and because of this one article, is the reason why I want to call you out on this to tell me what you knew about this amp.
IT IS TITLED "SHORTED OUTPUT TRANSISTORS"
If the amp goes into protect with no RCA or speakers cables connected to it or if the amplifier blows the fuse AFTER remote voltage is applied, the amplifier likely has shorted out transistors. In that case, THE AMPLIFIER WILL NEED TO BE REPAIRED
It sounds like I wrote that because of how spot-on it is about my sitiuation. I wish I saw this before I went through all this wasted time and money trying to get it working. The blue light comes on for a second then the fuses blow. The only time I saw the red protect light was when I just happened to have the RCA's and speaker wires disconnected at the same time. I didn't even do it on purpose, It was just another combination I tried to get the amp working. Since the red protect came on for both those being disconnected. The Shorted Output Transistor can be the only reason for why I've gone through all this **** to get the amp to work.
Here are the options I thought of that I thought would be fair and fix this problem once and for all.
Since the last time we talked, you swore that the amp was in working condition, I don't know if since I did all this **** you're going to change your stand on whether you knew the amp was working on not. I'm not asking you to admit any guilt or anything I just think this needs to be fixed.
Either 1. Since you sware the amp works, you shouldn't have a problem wanting to refund my $250 back to me. I'll even pay for the insured shipping back to you. If the amp really doesn't have a problem, you shouldn't have a problem selling this because $250 is still cheaper than anyone else. I've gotten alot of offers + cash for new amps + money for this one but I decided I couldn't sell an amp not knowing 100% if somethings wrong with it.
2. I can take the amp to a repair shop so this way if you don't believe me, I can have a professional look at it and tell you the same dianosis I told you but since he's professional, you know he wouldn't be lying.
3. I can take it to a repair shop because it obviously needs to be repaired and I can get a quote to see how much it will be to get fixed. As long as your willing to pay the money to have it repaired. I will cover the shipping costs to try and not cost you as much
Bottom line, I think its only fair if you take the amp back, since it's working and all and anyone would kill for such a nice clean looking "working" saz-1500. Please refund me my $250 back and I'll pay for shipping, OR I can take it to a repair shop to dianose it and tell you that it has shorted output transistors and then we can figure our decision. Or just have it repaired because you know its broke anyways and you can pay for repair costs.
I didnt want it to come to this but I know you sold me a bad amp and I don't wanna have to open a case to resolve this. Please get back to me so we can talk like men and work this out
Thanks
James
