Ts-w3002d2 vs. RE Se-X12d2 vs. Mofo 122x ?

[Bass911 10+ year member]

I know it's not enough power, but which one of these would get pushed the hardest off 600 rms ported? I'm thinking about running 4 with about 2300-2400 rms?

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[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

RE hands down....

what kind of vehicle?

 

[Suicide Bobb 5,000+ posts]

RE hands down....
what kind of vehicle?

Re hands down? I'd take the pioneer

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

The RE has the Pioneer beat on xmax, motor force and cone area. I know paper specs aren't the tell all, but to me there is a significant difference. It can't possibly be that good, Pioneer is Walmart quality stuff- I'd never buy anything pioneer for my car unless it was a h/u.

All of the recommend ported boxes say to use a 3" port with lengths ranging from 2.5-7" long depending on box volume, which all give a tune around 50hz.

 

[Suicide Bobb 5,000+ posts]

The RE has the Pioneer beat on xmax, motor force and cone area. I know paper specs aren't the tell all, but to me there is a significant difference. It can't possibly be that loud, Pioneer is Walmart quality stuff- I'd never buy anything pioneer for my car unless it was a h/u.

You have obviously never messed with THAT Pioneer then. It's more comparable to the old SX that to the new Se-X. And have you seen the TS-W5000SPL? Can't possibly be that loud, that's Walmart ish //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

Nope havent messed with those.

Just sayin....I avoid anything Pioneer.

 

[Suicide Bobb 5,000+ posts]

Nope havent messed with those.
Just sayin....I avoid anything Pioneer.

I avoid MOST Pioneer. All their decks, their non-Premier subs, most of their amps, and their non-Premier speakers.

 

[Bass911 10+ year member]

Re hands down? I'd take the pioneer

Ford Expedition. On paper the Pioneer has the stronger motor force. I'm thinking the weaker motor would be more efficient?

 

[Bass911 10+ year member]

The RE has the Pioneer beat on xmax, motor force and cone area. I know paper specs aren't the tell all, but to me there is a significant difference. It can't possibly be that good, Pioneer is Walmart quality stuff- I'd never buy anything pioneer for my car unless it was a h/u.
All of the recommend ported boxes say to use a 3" port with lengths ranging from 2.5-7" long depending on box volume, which all give a tune around 50hz.

I've also seen the port recommendations, and don't like it. Some say they sound pretty good in 2-2.5 cubes ported at 32hz?

 

[Vossy 10+ year member]

Pioneer imo

 

[Liquid Bass 10+ year member]

Pioneer. Those 3002s sound very good and get loud. They will take over 1k too

 

[Bass911 10+ year member]

Pioneer. Those 3002s sound very good and get loud. They will take over 1k too

But will they sound good with only 600 watts?

 

[Suicide Bobb 5,000+ posts]

But will they sound good with only 600 watts?

Don't let anyone tell you that any sub that can take more than X watts will sound bad off X watts. I don't care if the sub can handle 5000 watts rms like mine, it sounds fantastic off 500 watts, or even 250. What you are looking for is efficiency, which sadly is a specification that is almost impossible to trust on-paper for three reasons: Some are tested before the sub is broken in and some aren't, most test the efficiency at 1khz which the sub will NEVER see in your car, and some test at 1w/1m while others test at 2.83w/1m (the latter giving the higher rating, and when they test using that amount of power, they usually don't let you know).

For you, your only chance is to do an A/B swap of the subs, each in their own optimal enclosure off the same system. Obviously, this is impossible to test without buying them, so you're left with choosing the most efficient sub with a wild guess. Sorry, but that's the sad truth //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif