Truth?

[Proximity 10+ year member]

grounding to the battery is actually a bad thing. i have 3 amps like you with a d-block grounded to the body pulling 180amps (180a x 13.5v=~2500W RMS), if you have a good enough ground and ground it RIGHT you should have no problems especially if you upgrade your grounds under the hood. you want your car to be the conductor because the electronds enter the amp from the ground side NOT the + side. so your chasis ends up being the - line from your alternator and NO WIRE can be as good as a conductor as the body

Is that legit? I've always believed otherwise but I'm not exactly an electrical engineer.

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[dragnix 5,000+ posts]

i ground to the batt. It's fine

 

[Pioneer~Saturn 5,000+ posts]

Same here...no problems

 

[ultimate157 5,000+ posts]

He's completely right... Who DOESNT know that rusty steel mixed with a shit ton of alloys, paint, and other extremely good conductors are much better than pure copper. God all of those welds, multiple body panels sure don't get in the way at all.

But seriously, grounding to the battery is the best solution.

I'm running my amp down to 0.5 with 1/0 grounded to the battery and have zero dimming. Using the body as my ground was just terrible, even at a higher impedance. yes the spot was completely bare, and my battery had an upgraded ground as well.

 

[Proximity 10+ year member]

^ Yeah that's what I thought. The guy said he did this shit for a living so I at least went to look into it a bit.

 

[MasterOfAllBass 10+ year member]

so what u guys are saying for the big 3 you can ground your alt to your bat?

 

[Pioneer~Saturn 5,000+ posts]

He's completely right... Who DOESNT know that rusty steel mixed with a shit ton of alloys, paint, and other extremely good conductors are much better than pure copper. God all of those welds, multiple body panels sure don't get in the way at all.
But seriously, grounding to the battery is the best solution.

I'm running my amp down to 0.5 with 1/0 grounded to the battery and have zero dimming. Using the body as my ground was just terrible, even at a higher impedance. yes the spot was completely bare, and my battery had an upgraded ground as well.

Yep...same here, for a short time I ran a single run 1/0 gauge to rear and a single 1/0 gauge back to negative terminal and it was a great deal better than grounding it to the frame....now to go for 4-runs both ways //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif...see ya resistance!

 

[PaulD 10+ year member]

funny, all the "experts" would disagree with you guys

 

[ultimate157 5,000+ posts]

funny, all the "experts" would disagree with you guys

Funny, you fail at life.

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

Like most things in life, there is no easy answer. Some vehicles exhibit less resistances through their chassis than others. That's been tested and proven by Clark and Navone. Generally if its a high powered system, I will run it as chassis ground if I have a full framed vehicle, or run a dedicated ground cable back to the batt if its a uni-body.

 

[PaulD 10+ year member]

Funny, you fail at life.

if car audio is your "life", then I TRULY pity you

 

[BEAVER.989 10+ year member]

9 times out of 10 the chassis is the better ground...

 

[SocMunky 10+ year member]

if car audio is your "life", then I TRULY pity you

Did you fail to notice that you are on a car audio website? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

 

[SocMunky 10+ year member]

9 times out of 10 the chassis is the better ground...

The chassis is definetly easier in most case. Unless of course your battery is in the trunk. Running groundwire to the front would ****.

 

[Louisiana_CRX 5,000+ posts]

Grounded to the battery or batteries....4 years of first place wins...no problems...//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif