Truth or Rumor

[knukonceptz 10+ year member]

Changing the fuse in the amp wont allow it to make more power. The factory sized fuses are correct for the amp's designed output. Using the fuse rating though, you can determine what an amp COULD output in watts

Watts = Volts x Amps

So your car operates between 13.8 – 14.4V DC and fuse ratings on amplifiers indicate max amperage value.

14.4V x 50A = 720Watts… IF your amp is 100% efficient.....No amp is 100% efficient….period

To Determine Amperage from watts:

System Total Watts / Voltage (14.4) = Amps (At 100% efficiency, which, again is not possible)

Now if you have an amp that "claims" 2000 watts with a 50A fuse, PLEASE understand, your amp is not capable of actually making anything more then 625 watts or so as on average amps are 70-85% efficient

 

[lostdaytomorrow 10+ year member]

The OP makes no sense.

 

[bigbang 10+ year member]

Keep in mind a class D amp is more efficient than a class AB amp. Case in point, my MTX 1501D will put out 1500 watts RMS (at 2ohm) vs my MTX 1004 which will put out 1000 watts RMS (combined, all chanels at 2 ohm), even though they both use a 150amp fuse. The class D is 50% more efficient than the class AB.

 

[IgnoreMe 5,000+ posts]

I was told today while working (I have a part time job at a gas station) that the amperage you get from your amp depends on what size fuse you have in your amp and power wire. Is this true?

That is Trumor...

 

[frans-c 10+ year member]

I'm no expert, but as far as I know, the main fuse (close to the battery) protects the wire. That's why you need to install it as close to the battery as possible, not more than 12" - there's no use installing the fuse close to the amplifier, because your entire wire will melt if there's a short.

The main fuse isn't there to protect the amplifier at all - that's the job of the amp's fuse.

So, main fuse protects the wire, amplifier fuse protects the amplifier.