Today I installed my 2 12's, custom fit a box to my trunk, installed my sub amp, had to make a floor out of plywood, recarpeted my entire trunk, ran all the wires, and FINALLY turned the system on after about 13 hours of work...everything sounded great..so i decide to move the amplifier to a better location then the ****ing power wire fell out (connection was tight or so I thought) and landed on the ground wire blowing my only 150 amp fuse....so I got to hear my system for about 5 mins before disaster struck lol...my luck //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/bawling.gif.6287aa5d1d447c8af063fc9466e822ef.gif
anyone know where I could get a 150 amp fuse instead of ordering offline, maybe circuit city has them or an autoparts store?... I'm tempted to hardwire the **** thing but thats probaly not a good idea
Don't make the same mistake twice, buy two fuses this time around. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif Its always nice to have a spare fuse, you'll never have to be without tunes for a few days again over this reason, and it only costs extra once.
I got really tired of blowing fuses about 8 months ago, and ended up getting a circuit breaker. I know youre not supposed to use em under the hood, but I'll take that risk.
You are right, that is a risk. A circuit breaker is a mechanical device with fairly intricate moving parts that's not made for that environment. Its not a question of if the breaker will fail, but when. If you insist on running a cb under the hood, I at very least suggest checking the rest button on a regular basis. This will at least tell you when the contacts have become so corroded as to not even move when the reset button tries to move them manually. But, as a cb starts to fall victim to corrosion, it can still trip manually when the reset button is pushed, but negatively affect at what amperage the cb reset automatically. The contacts start to corrode, it takes more force (current) to pull them apart. Once this corrosion reaches the point that it takes more force (current) to seperate them than your power cable can handle, you have basically no protection on the wire, and do have a dangerous situation.
Fuse can corrode into place as bad as if they were welded there, and the fuse will still burn at exactly whatever current it was designed for. There is no question fuses are the right way to go under the hood.
If you keep blowing fuses, you are doing something wrong. Seriously. Don't fix one mistake with another mistake (running a cb under the hood). If you want a circuit breaker in your cable to work as an on/off switch for working on the system, mount it back in the trunk where the amps and stuff are anyway, and put a fuse under the hood.
i have ran straight wire before, i actually ran it for atleast 8 months when if irst got into car audio with 2 cerwin vega subs and a pyle amp. the **** wire shorted out about every week or so. after all the rambling, knocking around, and shortouts .... i never had a single prob out of my amp.
This makes no sense to me. You ran a power cable with no fuses at all, and it shorted out every week or so? How would you even know, with no fuse to blow or circuit breaker to trip? Unless you were lucky enough that the short wasn't so big as to overheat the wire. Dead battery would be the luckiest way to know, bon fire would be the worst (and yet very likely). Sounds like you were very lucky every week or so.
BTW, the fuse on the wire we are talking about is to protect the wire from overheating, and the car ultimately burning up. It is not there to protect the amp.
