super easy question... for some reason i have a hard time figuring it out :/

An amp that can do 600wRMS

RMS power = continuous, nonstop power

Peak power = the power it can handle/produce for a short period of time. You don't use this number when finding the right match for a sub/amp

 
^^^ is right but I would get an 800 watts for either head room or you could just give it 800 watts 200 extra should be no big deal
That's a pretty ignorant statement, you don't even know what kind of sub it is. Even though sometimes they are rated conservatively, they are rated for a reason. If I were to give my sub 200w more than what it's rated for, it wouldn't be good.

 
That's a pretty ignorant statement, you don't even know what kind of sub it is. Even though sometimes they are rated conservatively, they are rated for a reason. If I were to give my sub 200w more than what it's rated for, it wouldn't be good.
Then you need to look into better subs

 
That's a pretty ignorant statement, you don't even know what kind of sub it is. Even though sometimes they are rated conservatively, they are rated for a reason. If I were to give my sub 200w more than what it's rated for, it wouldn't be good.
His subs max is rated 3x it's rms power if it can't handle 200 more watts he should prob stay away because the company is probably lying about it's capabilities

Your probably getting a clipped signal then from a ****** amp if you can't give your 600 watt sub 200 more watts, wattage goes up and down if he were to dmm it to 800 watts it wouldn't even hit 800 watts and hold it constant for a long period of time.

 
Then you need to look into better subs
I have an audioque sub. no need.

His subs max is rated 3x it's rms power if it can't handle 200 more watts he should prob stay away because the company is probably lying about it's capabilities
Your probably getting a clipped signal then from a ****** amp if you can't give your 600 watt sub 200 more watts, wattage goes up and down if he were to dmm it to 800 watts it wouldn't even hit 800 watts and hold it constant for a long period of time.
My sub is "rated" to handle an audioque 1200d, which puts out 870w at 2ohms. I didn't mean the 600w rate on the sub page, my bad. If I gave it 1070w, it wouldn't be good. I've asked dj and even 950w is pushing it for daily.

And correct me if I'm wrong, I maybe am, but when I see those giant leaps in-between RMS and peak power handling, they usually are lower end subs.

 
I have an audioque sub. no need.


My sub is "rated" to handle an audioque 1200d, which puts out 870w at 2ohms. I didn't mean the 600w rate on the sub page, my bad. If I gave it 1070w, it wouldn't be good. I've asked dj and even 950w is pushing it for daily.

And correct me if I'm wrong, I maybe am, but when I see those giant leaps in-between RMS and peak power handling, they usually are lower end subs.
Sometimes they are bad subs, sometimes they are not like I said if a sub is rated like that and can't do an extra 200 watts then I know I wouldn't buy it. Also an amp won't keep the 800 watts rms the whole time. There also is variations in ohms meaning what ever he wires his sub to it could end up being 2 ohms on a dmm but when playing the music it could be at a different ohm so he could be at 2 ohms doing 800 watts or he could be at 2.6 ohms or almost 3 and be getting somewhere between 600-800 watts. Like I said he won't be getting the full 800 watts at all times he should be safe...

To the op what sub is it?

 
Also if you ask a rep (dont know if dj is or not) what kind of watts you can push the sub they should tell you whatever it is rated because if it blows at 1070 watts and he told you to play it at that I would consider him at fault (don't know if he was being truthful or if he was saying 870 because that's the rating).

It costs them money whenever a sun goes bad under warranty they don't want you giving it more than what they say is safe. That's why they normally give them a lower rating then they could possibly take.

 
Also if you ask a rep (dont know if dj is or not) what kind of watts you can push the sub they should tell you whatever it is rated because if it blows at 1070 watts and he told you to play it at that I would consider him at fault (don't know if he was being truthful or if he was saying 870 because that's the rating).
It costs them money whenever a sun goes bad under warranty they don't want you giving it more than what they say is safe. That's why they normally give them a lower rating then they could possibly take.
The sub is rated at 600wrms, the 1200d is rated at 870w@2ohms, and dj said that they were designed around each other so the SDC2.5 line can handle 870w. My sub can do 950@2 though, but he said that is pushing it for daily.

 
So what your saying is the sub is rated for 600 watts and you are giving it 270 watts more? Making you sound like a ******* for saying 200 more watts would blow it? I don't care if the amp was designed for that sub.. Unless they are magical watts, it is pushing out the same kind of watts as others(unless clipping of course)

 
So what your saying is the sub is rated for 600 watts and you are giving it 270 watts more? Making you sound like a ******* for saying 200 more watts would blow it? I don't care if the amp was designed for that sub.. Unless they are magical watts, it is pushing out the same kind of watts as others(unless clipping of course)
this.

 
So what your saying is the sub is rated for 600 watts and you are giving it 270 watts more? Making you sound like a ******* for saying 200 more watts would blow it? I don't care if the amp was designed for that sub.. Unless they are magical watts, it is pushing out the same kind of watts as others(unless clipping of course)
u mad bro? I'm used to saying my sub is rated at 870w. It was a mistake. You can get off the steroids now //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
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